Downloaded 35 times
More Related Content
COLLARS
- 1. EDGE FINISHES -COLLARS- MS. PEACEAKOSUA TSEKPO VOCATIONAL AND TECHNICAL EDUCATION HOME ECONOMICS UNIT (CLOTHING AND TEXTILES)
- 2. COLLARS Collars are fabricpieces cut separate or cut in one to neatening the raw edges of neckline . Collars may be attached permanently or detachable the under collar as part of the garment section and the upper collar as part of the facing. They are described according to the shape at the neck and outer edges. The method used in attaching a collar to the garment varies with the style and weight of the fabric. Most collars, with exception of the shawl collar are prepared before being attached to the garment neckline.
- 3. Features of AWell-Made Collar; ļ Points and curves are identical on both sides of a symmetrical collar. ļ The ends of the collar do not extend beyond the centre front or back unless specified by the design. ļ The collar should lie smoothly with the under collar well covered by the upper collar.
- 4. Types of Collars Generally,there are three types of collars. They are the full roll collar, the partial roll collar and the flat collar. They can also be classified as a rolled collar, a flat collar and a standing collar. We will go into the details of the different collars when treating pattern making later. We will go into the details of the different collars when treating pattern making later. These collars are named according to how they sit on the neckline of the garment which is determined by the shape at the neckline edge. When we get to the unit on pattern making, we will go into the details of how to make patterns for the different collars. At this point however, our main concern is with how to sew collars. Below are diagrams to show you the shapes of the different collars.
- 5. A flat collaremerges from the neck seamline to lie flat against the garment, rising only slightly above the garmentās neck edge. A typical example is the Peter pan collar. Fat collars occur most often in untailored garments, such as dresses, and in childrenās wear.
- 6. A rolled collarfirst stands up from the neck edge, then falls down to rest on the garment. The line at which the collar begins to fall is called roll line. The positioning of this line determines the extent of the stand, thus the fall of the collar. Examples of the rolled collar, other than the one shown, are the notched and the shawl collars.
- 7. A standing collarextends above the neck seamline of the single-width band or as a winder, double- with band that will fold back down onto itself. Most standing collars are straight, but they can be curved so that they stand up at a slight angle. Shirt collar with a stand is a variation of the standing collar.
- 8. Sewing of DifferentStyles of Collar We have not yet gone into the details of pattern making but we will learn about how to attach different types of collars to the neckline. To make and attach a round collar ļ Attach interfacing ļ Pin collar with right sides facing ļ Stitch on the design edge seamline of collar ļ Layer/trim and notch the seam allowance ļ Under stitch on the under collar
- 9. ļ Turn collarto the right side and press rolling seam slightly to the underside ļ Interface front facing ļ Join facings at the shoulder line. Press the seam open and finish the outer edge of the facing. ļ Pin the prepared collar to the right side of the garment matching them at centre front, centre back and the shoulders baste the collar in place. ļ Place facing over the collar, right sides together. Pin in place match notches, shoulder seam and centre back. Note that if the back facing is a bias strip over the collar extending the bias about 2.5cm beyond the facing edge.
- 10. Stitch on theseamline Stitch on the seamline from the edge of the facing to the other end. ļ Trim corners diagonally and clip neckline seam allowance. Trim off excess thickness where necessary. ļ Under stich back neckline and then press ļ Turn facing to the wrong side of the bodice, press flat and secure facing at shoulder seams. ļ For bias at the back, turn a lay on the raw edge of the bias and stitch edge to the bodice with your hand or by machine.
- 12. To make andattach pointed two -piece convertible collar ļ Attach interfacing to under collar ļ Pin upper collar to under collar with right sides facing. ļ Stitch on the design edge seamline opposite the neckline edge of collar. ļ Layer/ trim and notch the seam allowance. ļ Under stitch the entre seam and press. ļ Pin the collar ends together, rolling the upper collar onto the under collar by about 3mm. ļ Stitch the ends of the collar trim the ends giving a diagonal trim at the points. ļ Turn collar to the right side and carefully bring out the points by taking a small hand stitch in the point catching a few layers of yarn and gently pulling on both ends of the thread.
- 13. ļ Lift thecorners into position, roll the seam to the underside and press. ļ Interface front facing. And finish the edges. ļ Pin the under collar and to across back neckline from shoulder seam to shoulder seam. ļ Stitch from shoulder seam to shoulder seam. ļ Pin all the layers of the collar in place from shoulder to the front with the ends of the collar matching with the centre front of the bodice.
- 14. ļ Place thefacing in position over the collar and machine stitch from front edge of the facing to the shoulder seamlines on both sides. ļ Clip in the seam allowance of the neckline leaving the unstitched part of the upper collar at the back unclipped. ļ Turn seam allowance of the back into the collar. ļ Turn facing right side out and press. ļ Turn the upper collar seam allowance left unstitched under. Secure folded edge in place with machine or hand stitches. Attach the facing to the garment along the shoulder seams
- 16. To make andattach a shirt collar Tailored shirts usually have collars that have a neckband. These shirt collars may be in two pieces with the stand or neckband being cut separately from the fall of one piece. In this section we will deal with only the one-piece shirt collar. 1. Apply interfacing to under collar. Note that in this type of colt especially, it is best to cut the interfacing and reduce bulk in seam allowance. 2. Pin collar with right sides facing 3. Stitch on the design edge seamline of collar. 4. Layer/ trim and notch the seam allowance
- 17. 5. Under stitchon the undercollar if the collar is not cut on a fold. 6.Ā Turn collar to the right side and press rolling seam slightly to the underside. 7. Pin and stitch the stand of the under collar to the right side of the garment neckline from the front edge to front edge. 8. Clip in neckline seam allowance and trim the front corners. 9. Turn under the stand seam allowance of the upper collar along the neckline. Bring the turned neckline edge of the upper collar into position on the seamline of the bodice neckline and stitch in position using the hand or a
- 19. To Make andAttach A Shawl Collar In all the collars we discussed earlier on, the collars were cut separately from the garment bodice. The shawl collar however differs from attached collars due to the fact that itās under collar is an extension of the garment front bodice and not a separate piece. The front facing therefore becomes the upper collar. Interfacing is therefore applied to the upper collar. - Apply interfacing to the front facing of the garment ā¢ - Place the facing right sides together and stitch at centre back and do the same thing for the centre back under collar on the garment.
- 20. ā¢ Mark anglewhere the collar and front shoulder seams meet and snip in diagonally. ā¢ - Join back and front garment shoulder seams. Machine stitch on the seam line stopping exactly on the point of the corner of the under collar. ā¢ - Clip in seam allowance diagonally to the corner and press the shoulder seams open.
- 21. 1. With rightsides together, join facing to the front edge of the garment making sure they matched at centre back and breakpoint. 2. Trim the seam allowance and under stitch on the garment side from breakpoint through back neckline, to break point and on the facing side from breakpoint to hemline on both sides. 3. Press the collar and front areas of the garment. 4. Turn under the seam allowance along shoulder and back neckline of the facing, place them in position over the bodice and stitch.
- 24. REFERENCE: ļ±Gavor et al.clothing and textiles for schools and colleges, Adwinsa Publications (GH) Ltd (2014).