Cosmetics STRUCTURE OF SKIN and skin related problems like dry skin, acne pigmentation

COSMETICS-STRUCTURE
OF SKIN AND SKIN
RELATED PROBLEMS
SUBMITTED BY
SUJITHA MARY
M PHARM
ST JOSEPH COLLEGE OF
PHARMACY

CONTENTS
 STRUCTURE OF SKIN
 DRY SKIN
 ACNE
 PIGMENTATON
 WRINKLES
 PRICKLY HEAT
 BODY ODOUR

Cosmetics –Definition
 As per EU cosmetics is defined as “any
substance or preparations intended to be palced
in contact with various external part of human
body or with the teeth and mucus membrane of
the oral cavity with a view mainly to clean them ,
perfuming, changing their appearance
correcting body odour or protecting them or
keeping them in good condition”

SKIN
 Skin is the largest organ of the body,
accounting for about 15% of the total adult
body weight.
 It protects against external particles.
 It prevents excessive water loss from the
body.
 It helps in Thermoregulation.

STRUCTURE OF SKIN
 1. Epidermis (Outer layer responsible for
colour)
 2. Dermis (Contains hair follicle & sweat
glands)
 3. Hypodermis (Made of fat & connective
tissue

EPIDERMIS
• Outer layer of skin, acts as barrier to
infections.
• Made of keratinized stratified squamous
epithelial cells.
• Cells are formed by mitosis in basal layer, then
get pushed into more superficial layers of
strata.
• It is a vascular layer that depends on blood
vessel in underlying dermis for its nutrition

Epidermis
 The epidermis contains 5 major layers:-
1. Stratum basale/Stratum germinativum
2. Stratum spinosum
3. Stratum granulosum
4. Stratum lucidum
5. Stratum corneum

DERMIS
 Middle layer of skin, that contains nerves, hair
roots, sweat glands, oil glands & blood
vessels.
 Made of dense irregular connective tissue
having collagen & fibers, separated from
epidermis by basement membrane.
 Highly vascular & highly innervated.
 Contains sensory receptors for touch,
pressure, vibration, pain & temparature.

Hypodermis
 Present below dermis.
 Deep to skin & also known as Subcutaneous
tissue.
 Consists layer of fats & adipose tissue.
 Main cells present are Fibroblast, Adipose
tissue, Macrophages.
 Functions as energy source by storing fat.

DRY SKIN
• Low level of sebum present.
• Usually feels tight and uncomfortable.
• Chapping and cracking are signs of extremely dry,
dehydrated skin.
• 10-20% of water content in stratum corneum is
required to keep skin soft and pliable.
• Barrier alteration cause increase in
Transepidermal water loss.
• This result in drying out, precipitating dry skin
condition.
• Feels like taut, rough and itchy

Causes of Dry skin
 Weather
 Central heating and air conditioning, fireplaces
 Tight clothing or compression
 Harsh soaps and detergents
 Sun exposure
 Aging

TREATMENT
1)Cleansing
•Apply moisturizers and or emollients while the skin
is still moist; apply liberally once a day at a
minimum and reapply when required.
•When emollients and moisturizers are insufficient,
the use of ceramides may be considered.
•A barrier cream may be useful for hands and feet.
•When scaling is present, consider a keratolytic
such as a urea-based moisturizer, salicylic acid,
lactic acid, or glycolic acid for mildly, moderately,
and severely dry skin. Consider a higher
concentration keratolytic product on hands and
feet.

TREATMENT
2) Skin Care Products
FORMULATION OF COLD CREAM
White bees wax - 10g
Liquid paraffin - 30g
Borax – 0.5g
Rose oil – 0.1ml
Purified water – 10ml

PROCEDURE
•Weigh the required quantity of white beeswax &
liquid paraffin and melt in a china dish by heating
on a water bath upto 70ºC .
•In a glass beaker, dissolve borax in water and heat
upto 70ºC
•When both oily and aqueous phases reaches the
same temperature (70ºC) , gradually add borax
solution to the melted beeswax drop by drop with
constant stirring.
•Stir continuously until it becomes cool.When the
temperature lowers to 40-45ºC , incorporate rose
oil and mix uniformly , until a homogeneous semi-
solid mass is obtained.

ACNE
•Acne, also known as acne vulgaris, is a long-
term skin disease that occurs when hair
follicles are clogged with dead skin cells and
oil from the skin.
•It is characterized by blackheads or
whiteheads, pimples, oily skin, and possible
scarring.
• It primarily affects areas of the skin with a
relatively high number of oil glands, including
the face, upper part of the chest, and back

CAUSES
•Gene
•Hormonal activity, such as occurs during menstrual
cycles and puberty
•Infections against anaerobic bacterial species
Propionibacterium acnes
•High-glycemic-load diets
•Stress
•Several medications like lithium, hydantoin,
isoniazid, glucocorticoids, iodides, bromides, and
testosterone. 10

ACNE LIFE CYCLE
 Stage 1:- Clogged pores Cell lining pores shed &
mix with excess sebum produced by sebaceous
glands forming a plug, leads to clogged pores.
 Stage 2:- Bacteria Accumulated sebum & dead
cells attract the bacteria that is naturally found in
skin, which feeds on oil and multiply rapidly inside
pores.
 Stage 3:- Inflammation This bacterial overgrowth
triggers the natural inflammatory response
causing swelling & redness. This can ultimately
lead to discoloration & scarring.

TREATMENT
(a)Topical retinoids
•Topical retinoids are mainly used in patients
with non-inflammatory comedones, in
combination with other topical and systemic
drugs in mild, moderate and severe
inflammatory acne and also as a maintenance
treatment when oral treatment is stopped.
•The following retinoid are used today in the
topical management of acne: tretinoin,
isotretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene and
retinaldehyde.

(b)Antibiotics
•Topical antibiotics are generally used for mild to moderate
inflammatory acne. They have activity against P. acnes, and
therefore act on the surface of the skin to reduce the stimulus
for inflammation of the lesions
•The most popular topical antibiotics used in acne treatment are
erythromycin and clindamycin
(c) Benzoyl Peroxide
•Benzoyl peroxide is a topical disinfectant, originally employed
as a peeling agent for treating acne .
•Benzoyl peroxide has proven bactericidal activity against P.
acnes by releasing free radical oxygen, which degrades the
bacterial proteins

(d) Azelaic Acid
•Azelaic acid is a natural dicarboxylic acid that
inhibits protein synthesis of the P. acnes
species
•It is an effective agent because it has
bacteriostatic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant

PIGMENTATION
 Pigmentation disorders are disturbances of
human skin color, either loss or reduction, which
may be related to loss of melanocytes or the
inability of melanocytes to produce melanin or
transport melanosomes correctly.
 Pigmentation is the colouring of an individual’s
skin. The colour of skin appears normal when a
person is healthy.
 A person’s skin may change colour and grow
darker (hyperpigmentation) or lighter
(hypopigmentation) because of illness and injury.

PIGMENTATION DISORDER
1)Hyperpigmentation
It is the darkening of an area of
skin or nails caused by increased melanin.One of
the leading causes of hyperpigmentation is
exposure to sunlight.
2)Hypopigmentation
It is the loss of skin colour which is caused
by melanin depletion.
3)Vitiligo
Vitiligo is an autoimmune disease in which
there is an appearance of smooth white patches
on the skin occur all over the body.

4)Albinism It is a rare inherited disorder which is
caused by the absence of an enzyme that
produces melanin. Pigmentation is completely
lost as a result in eyes, skin and hair.
5) De-pigmentation It is the lightening of the skin
or loss of pigment 16

TREATMENT OF PIGMENTATION
DISORDERS
1)Hydroquinone
•HQ affects not only the formation, melanization,
and degradation of melanosomes, but it also
affects the membranous structures of
melanocytes and eventually causes necrosis
of whole melanocytes. •HQ preparations are
commonly used in the treatment of melasma at
concentrations varying from 2 to 5% applied
once daily

2)Azelaic acid
•Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring,
nonphenolic, saturated, nine-carbon
dicarboxylic acid that competitively inhibits
tyrosinase.
•It has also been used to treat hyperpigmentary
disorders like melasma. 17
3)Glycolic acid
•Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that is
usually combined with other agents at a
concentration of 5-10% for its skin-lightening
property.

 4)Arbutin
•Arbutin, the beta-D-glucopyranoside derivative of
hydroquinone, is a naturally occurring plant
product which has been used successfully in the
treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders. Arbutin
acts by the inhibition of tyrosinase, thereby
decreasing melanin formation.
 5)Niacinamide
•Niacinamide (nicotinamide), the biologically active
amide form of niacin (vitamin B3), can reduce
pigmentation by reversibly preventing the transfer
of melanosomes from melanocytes to the
keratinocytes

Formulation of hypopigmentation
cream
 Paraffin oil and coconut oil
 Cetomacrogol 1000
 Cetostearyl alcohol
 Glycerin
 Lemon oil
 Distilled Water Extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra

PROCEDURE
 Preparation of base
•Water in oil (W/O) cream was prepared by the
addition of aqueous phase to the oily phase
with continuous agitation. To prepare base; oily
phase that consisted of paraffin oil, beeswax,
coconut oil and surfactants (cetomacrogol
1000 and cetosteatyl alcohol), is heated up to
75°C±1°C. Aqueous phase consisting of
glycerin and water is heated to the same
temperature. Preparation

 Preparation of formulation
• The formulation was also prepared by same
method; the only difference is the addition of
Glycyrrhiza glabra extract (active drug) that is
added in aqueous phase consisting of glycerin
and water. Each formulation consists of
preserved water (propyl paraben 0.02% w/w
and methyl paraben 0.1% w/w) to 100g. The
formulations were neutralized by
Triethanolamine to pH=5.5 at 25°C.

WRINKLES
 A wrinkle, also known as a rhytide, is a fold,
ridge or crease in the skin .
 Skin wrinkles typically appear as a result of
aging processes such as glycation, habitual
sleeping positions, loss of body mass, or
temporarily, as the result of prolonged
immersion in water.
 Age wrinkling in the skin is promoted by
habitual facial expressions, aging, sun
damage, smoking, poor hydration, and various
other factors.

TREATMENT
1)The fillers :
•The filler is a biological or syntactical mean to inject in
hypoderm or in derma tissue, so to implement or
enhance a limited area of body (usually face) for
aesthetic purpose.
•The used substrates are bovine collagen, autologous
collagen, cadaveric collagen.
2)Peelings :
•Peeling is a medical treatment consisting in a micro-
abrasion of epidermis or the superficial and medium
derma, by means of chemical or physical agents.
•The peels used in these treatments are pyruvic acid,
salicylic acid, retinoic acid, tricloroacetic acid (T.C.A.)
at 10%-20%.

3)Botulinum toxin
•Botulinum toxin injection for treatment of facial wrinkles
is one of the most common entry procedures for
clinicians seeking to incorporate aesthetic treatments
into their practice.
•Botulinum toxin is a potent neurotoxin that inhibits
release of acetylcholine at the neuromuscular
junction.
4)Lasers
•The cosmetic use of the laser represents a valid non-
invasive intervention for the aged skin. The used
lasers are the CO2 laser.
•They are indicated for treatments of aesthetic lesions,
for resurfacing, for non-ablative rejuvenating and for
hair removal. Other treatments are Dermabrasion,

PRICKLY HEAT
• It is aslo called as heat rash/miliaria.
• It is itchy inflammation of superficial layers of skin,
typically with rash of small vesicles, common in
hot humid whether.
• They are red bumps on a skin & an itchy or prickly
feeling on skin.
• Heat rash is common in summer months &
particularly in humid climates.
• These conditions are usually self-limited and
resolves in hours to a few days without treatment.
• Any body part can be affected, majorly face, neck,
back, abdomen, elbow folds, groin.

CAUSES
• It is caused by trapped sweat, when the body is
hot the sweat glands get activated to produce
sweat on skin.
• When body kept in warm state, the constant sweat
production can overload sweat glands, this can
cause the sweat ducts to get blocked by trapping
sweat in deep layers of skin with help of bacterias.
• This trapped sweat irritates the skin by forming
the rash on it.
• Most common trigger for prickly heat is exposure
to heat for long time.

TYPES
1. Clear (Miliaria crystallina)
• It sometimes called as miliaria sudamina. This
happens when the blockage of sweat ducts occur
at closer surface of skin. The rash is like tiny clear
spots & may look like beads of sweat.
2. Red (Miliaria rubra) • It is a most common type. •
It is caused when the blockage of the sweat ducts
occur at deeper part of the outer layer of skin
(Epidermis). • Crops of tiny red bumpy spots
develop. • The rash may occur within days of
coming into hot climate. However the rash doesn’t
appear until weeks or months have passed in hot
climate. •

3)White/Yellow (Miliaria pustulosa)
• In this type the bumps on the skin become
infected with the bacteria living on the skin
surface. The fluid inside the bumps contain
pus.
4). Deep (Miliaria profunda)
• It is uncommon and caused when the blockage
of sweat ducts occurs at the level of middle
layer of skin (Dermis). It typically occurs in
people who live in a hot climate who
repeatedly had miliaria rubra

BODYODOUR
 • It is perceived unpleasant smell that body
can give when bacteria present on skin breaks
down the sweat into acid.
 • Body odour caused by combination of sweat
& bacteria, normally found in skin.

CAUSES
 Emotional factors like anxiety, stress,
embracement leads to excessive sweat
secretion.
 Illness & medications can also cause
excessive sweating.
 Hereditary problems

Cosmetics STRUCTURE OF SKIN and skin related problems like dry skin, acne pigmentation

Cosmetics STRUCTURE OF SKIN and skin related problems like dry skin, acne pigmentation

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