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Fin technology in apparel manufacturing
- 1. Technology in Apparel Manufacturing by Prof.Biswaranjan Ghosh SVPISTM, Coimbatore
- 2. APPAREL MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY Contents: • PatternMaking & Grading • Cutting: Lay Planning, Spreading, Marking • Sewing: • Post Sewing Operation / process • Value added Processes • Best Management Practices
- 3. Pattern Making • Tofacilitate mass production of garments of standard sizes, pattern making is necessary • First block pattern and base patterns are developed in the process of proto and fit sample development • Using base pattern various size pattern are made through the process of grading to develop size set samples • Today Computer Aided Design ( CAD) technology extensively used for Pattern Making and Grading.
- 4. Pattern Making The fashion/garment industry uses computer- aided design (CAD) systems to prepare the patterns. Pattern-making the process of transforming the design into the appropriate pieces needed to produce an apparel item It also facilitate grading. grading the technical process of increasing or decreasing the sizes of a pattern to correspond to a garment size Marker Making:
- 5. Pattern Making CAD systemsstore style information such as: • Flat sketch • Size spec • Trim requirements • Size grade charts 5
- 6. • The systemautomatically produce pattern shapes in all the pre-specified sizes 6 Grading
- 7. • Marker –arrangement of all pattern parts for max. fabric utilization • The system indicates the percentage of waste • Automatic matching of stripes and plaids is common to most systems 7 Marker Making
- 8.
- 9. Spreading related Equipment •Tables - Normal table - Vacuum table - Conveyor table - Pinned table • Fabric Loaders • Fabric weights/Clamps/Pins Pinned Table Vacuum Table Fabric clamps Fabric Weights Fabric Roll Loader
- 10.
- 11. Fully Automatic SpreadingMachines • Automatic loading/unloading device for fabric rolls • Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay • Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment. • Automatic cutting device at the end of a run • Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension • Automatic lay height sensing elevator • Programmable lay length, ply height • Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min Feature s:
- 12.
- 13. Semi-Automatic Cutting Equipment Advantages •Comparatively cheap • Production speed is very good • Rough work can be easily done by hands Disadvantages • Faulty knife could damage fabric layer • Knife required to change • Weight of the motor creates knife deflection which may be creates faulty pieces Straight knife Round knife Band knife Notcher machine
- 14. Die Cutting Dies arepre – shaped metal outlines. Most accurate Die cutting operation involves Placement of fabric, positioning the die on the fabric ,engaging the machine to press the die into the fabric .Useful for small precision parts.
- 15. Fully-Automatic Cutting Equipment Advantages •Cutting defects are less • Less labor cost • Suitable for very large scale of production • No need of marker paper Disadvantages • Very expensive machines • Very high on maintenance • Not suitable for cutting multi level fabric (water-jet, laser) • Not suitable for synthetic fabric(laser cutting) Computerized cutting machine Laser cutting machine Water-jet fabric cutting
- 16. • Single/multi needleindustrial lockstitch sewing machine with or without trimmer • Blind stitch machine/Chain stitching machine. • Flat lock machine (cylinder bed and flat bed) • Over lock machine (3 threads/4 threads and 5 and 6 threads) • Single/double needle chain stitch machine • Zigzag flat bed sewing machine. • Button stitch sewing machine. • Button hole sewing machine • Feed of Arm sewing machine • Label/elastic inserting machine • Bar tacking machine. • Hemstitch machine. • Smocking machine / Automatic multi needle shirring machine • Collar and cuff turning and blocking machine and pressing machine • Shoulder pad-attaching machine Different sewing Machines’ name
- 18. Lock stitch M/c:single and double
- 19. Sewing machines Computer controlled,Direct-Drive, High-Speed, 1 Needle, Lockstitch, Zigzag Stitching Machine with Automatic thread trimmer. Automatic Pocket Welting Machine
- 20. Feed-of arm- coverstitch m/c 2- needle feed-of arm 4-needle feed-of arm
- 21. Sewing Machine Over lockmachine Flat lock machine
- 22. Smocking Sewing Machinewith Shirring This machine adopt vertical movement of looper, suitable for basic sewing and decoration of high-grade garment for women’s and children’s suit. Up to 32-needles
- 23. Flatbed, multi needle,double chain stitch machine. These machines are multi-purpose machines for attaching elastic, attaching waistband, sewing the front of shirts, attaching line tapes, smocking and shirring which are ideal for underwear, sportswear, lady's clothes, interior decorated goods (curtains, table-clothes etc.).
- 24. Collar Turning andblocking machine
- 25. Lockstitch Automated PocketWelting machine with corner cutting device, 10 different patterns can be stored as stitch length, sewing speed,
- 26.
- 28. Special attachments- Foldersand guides Yoke attaching Pocket heming
- 29. Folders and guides Cuffheming Cuff attaching
- 30. Folders and guides Centreplacket Centre Placket
- 31. Folder and guide Pleat folderEdge stitch guide
- 32. Folder and guide Sleeveattach Sleeve attach- 2nd operation
- 33. Folder and guide Sleeveplacket folder Lap seam folder
- 34.
- 36. Automatic Feeding ButtonSewing Machine
- 37.
- 38. Pneumatic Multi-head button-attachingMachine For this machine, the head number can be: 1, 2, 3, 12. The machine series fit for all kinds of eyelet, snap button, jeans button, snap ring button, decoration button, etc.
- 39. Button hole sewingmachine
- 40. This is abuttonhole foot for making an automatic buttonhole. As you can see, it is much different than a traditional sewing machine foot. This foot works with a sensor on your sewing machine so that it makes the exact size buttonhole for the button you are using. The button is placed in the slot at the back- not shown in fig
- 41. Sequins attaching m/c •This machine is used to attach the sequin on the fabric. There is a wheel on which a roll of continuous sequin is wound. The fabric is put on under the foot and sequin lace is placed on the fabric with sewing. This is time saving machine and durability of the sequin is also increased.
- 42. Pressing Technology • Steamiron table • Vacuum is useful in two key ways. One, the most effective pressing is done by pulling the steam through the layers. Second, blowing up (via a readily accessible switch) reduces seam imprinting by the iron. This is particularly noticeable if you’re pressing several layers, the iron maps allowances underneath. This table is reported to be good for napped fabrics like corduroy and velvets because blowing up while pressing doesn’t crush the nap.
- 43. Border Making m/c •This machine is used to make different types of borders design. which can be select from pattern memory . Large embroideries can be machine produced based on design developed using AUTOCAD or other design software. • The software allows the designer to shrink , enlarge, rotate etc….
- 44. Computerized Embroidery m/c-single head and multi head • Computer connectivity using USB port for transferring patterns from the Internet is possible
- 45. Tajima 6 headembroidery machine Each Toyota Expert ESP 9100 is capable of 1,000 stitches per minute, the machines are fully networked together and driven by Wilcom software Used to embroider t-shirts, polo shirts, fleeces, coats, caps and hats, overalls, bags, sports kit, wear and most etc.
- 46. 47 Electronic body scanning AdvancedCAD for e-Commerce • A new trend in customizing clothing • After scanned, customers could used the measurement information for internet shopping e.g. ez-size • The perfect fit” -The Virtual Smart 3D Body Scanner calculates your customer's measurements and characteristics in your retail stores, in less than 15 seconds. This information is directly integrated into Lectra's FitNet mass customization solution with the end result: a perfect- fitting garment
- 47. 1 Body Scanner Universal Backend Database 3Database of partipating stores 2.1 Portal terminal 2.2 User home desktop 4 Selected apparel of best fit Store A Store B Store C 5 Shopping centre Generates list from database Generates list from database Selected item shipped Collection of item Guess, Levis, Oakley, etc Suppliers7 customer6