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Flatlock stitches and its Mechanisms
Flat lock machines are specialized, high-speed machines that use two or more needle threads to form stitches by passing through fabric and interlocking on the top and bottom sides. They have multiple needles, loopers, and spreaders and can sew at speeds up to 6000 SPM. Flat lock machines are mainly used for sewing knitted garments but can also be used for woven fabrics. They require numerous thread types and adjustments to operate properly.
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Flatlock stitches and its Mechanisms
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- 3. Flat Lock Machine Flatlock machines are specialized, high-speed machines. These machines are extremely fast and efficient. In this machine the stitch is formed by two or more needle threads passing through the material, inter looping on the underside and interlocking on the upper side. These machines are mainly used for knits. Elements in Stitching 1. Needle 2. Looper 3. Spreader Multi Needle machine have more than three needles.
- 4. Loopers: Loopers are availablein different shapes respective of their machines. Looper may or may not carry the lower thread in the formation of stitch. As in case of flat lock looper holds the lower thread but in case of single needle chain stitch it holds the needle thread. Spreader: Spreader work in conjunction with a looper to assist in the loop formation. They in fact move the thread but did not carry the thread
- 5. Specifications Function :Sewing all type of knitted cloth No. of needle : up to 4 Needle Size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21 No. of threads : 4 to 9 SPM : 6000 Type : Flat or cylinder bed Stitch Density : 8 to 16 per inch Thread consumption of this machine is very high. So very expensive machine. Used for knitted garments. But it can be used for Woven garments.
- 6. Adjustment :Thread, Tension, Needle, Pressure, Feed, Stitch density, Looper etc……. Different parts : Thread stand, Thread guides, Disc type tensioner, Pressure feed lever, Thread take-up lever, Needle, Looper…..
- 7. Description This machinemay be of flat bed or cylinder bed type. In our lab 21, 22 nos. machines are flat bed and 32 no. machine is cylinder bed type. Flat bed is used for sewing body cloth and cylinder bed is used for sleeve cloth. In this machine 4 needles may also be used and sewing may be done using from 4 to 9 threads. Sewing with flat lock machine the most quantity thread is needed. The SPM of this type of machine is usually 6000 and 8-16 stitches may be done per inch. It is a very expensive machine and is used for mainly sewing knitted goods but also used for making woven cloth.
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- 11. 4-Feeding Systems Feeding mechanismsare of 8 types 1. Drop feed 2. Differential feed 3. Needle feed 4. Adjustable Top feed 5. Compound feed 6. Puller feed 7. Walking foot feed 8. Manual feed
- 12. Needle Feed AdjustableTop Feed Unison Feed
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- 14. Differential-feed micro-adjustment mechanism Itis possible to finely adjust the differential feed amount to a best-suited value for the material to be used. In addition, the differential feed ratio remains the same even when the stitch length is changed.
- 15. Micro-lifter mechanism Elasticmaterial or delicate material can be sewn with the presser foot kept slightly raised. This effectively helps reduce the degree of slippage, warpage and damage of the material.
- 16. Stitch length adjustingmechanism Stitch pitch (stitch length) can be adjusted with ease simply by turning the stitch dial.
- 17. Chain stitchmachine : Stitch class 401 USES: Waist band & Inseam of jeans. Flat lock/ Inner lock M/C : Stitch class: 406 (3thread), 407 (4 thread), 602 (4 thread), 605 (5thread). USES: Bottom & sleeve hem of T-shirt & Polo shirt.
- 18. Technical adjustments ofFlat lock machine 1. Basic Machine Practice 2. Technical Specification 3. Installation of needle 4. Needle bar Height adjustment 5. Main looper timing 6. Spreader Looper Adjustment 7. Stitch Length Adjustment 8. Feed Dog Height adjustment 9. Cam Timing (Thread) 10. Needle and looper guard adjustment
- 19. Flat locking Facts: Flat locking is a decorative stitch. Use the standard presser foot. Disengage the upper blade so the folded fabric will not be cut. Use the left needle for the widest flat lock stitch. Decorative thread usually goes in the upper looper. Stitching is done on the fold of the fabric. Wrong sides of the fabric are folded together in order for the loops to show on the right side. Right sides of the fabric are folded together in order for ladder stitches to show on the right side. Flat locking on a folded edge creates a decorative stitch through the middle of the fabric piece.
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- 32. Stitches areformed by two or more groups of threads. One group is called needle thread and another is called looper thread Threads are bound together by interlacing and interlooping. Multi thread chain stitch is also called double locked stitch. Possibility of seam pucker formation is less. Extensibility is same as lock stitch. Used for long length sewing, heavy fabric sewing attaching lace, braid, elastic etc...
- 33. Stitch class –600 ( Multi – thread chain stitch ) Stitches under 600 class are formed by three groups of threads. One group is called needle and other is called top cover thread and the other group is called bottom cover thread. Stitches under this group are very complex and may need up 9 threads. Used for making knitted undergarments to attach tape, lace, elastic. Also used for decorative purposes
- 34. 406 401 -Chain stitch Stitch formedby 1 needle thread and being Inter looped with 1 looper thread that is set on the underside of the seam. Bottom Coverstitch Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread interlooped between needle threads, providing seam coverage on the bottom side.
- 35. 605 Coverstitch Formed with 3- needlethreads, a top cover thread and a bottom looper thread. 607 Coverstitch Formed with 4-needle threads, a top cover thread and a bottom looper thread.