Fruits tree pruning

All fruit trees need pruning to help them develop into strong, productive trees Pruning thins bearing limbs - fewer but larger fruits Gets rid of unproductive old wood Lets light, air into center of tree for healthy production

Each type has natural form Following this form leads to attractive tree that generally needs pruning only once a year

Pruning generally done in spring on dormant trees Sucker, water sprout removal most successful in mid-summer since tree is slowing growth - sprouts don’t come back as readily

Keep in mind framework of tree Make clean cuts with sharp, clean tools Well-pruned fruit tree will be shaped somewhat like Christmas tree

Prune to remove crossing branches diseased or damaged branches water sprouts branches that form narrow, weak angles Prune to open canopy for maximum air circulation

Best methods for high production, easy picking: central leader modified central leader Tree pruned to have one central trunk, scaffold branches evenly spaced around center leader

Central Leader Used on dwarf, semi-dwarf trees Leader allowed to grow

Modified Central Leader Used on standard-sized trees Central leader cut back yearly to keep tree shorter

Year One one-year whip (no branches) cut back to bud three feet above ground as shoots grow during summer, select 3-4 scaffold branches, 4-8 inches apart, evenly spaced in spiral around central leader pinch out or rub off all other shoots on main trunk forces energy into growing scaffold branches

Year One If tree already branched, select appropriate scaffold branches and prune out all others Cut back central leader to 4-6 inches above top scaffold Through summer, allow new central leader to emerge Remove all shoots that arise from the trunk

Year Two In dormant season, cut back central leader to about 3 feet above lowest scaffold branch Cut just above bud on opposite side of trunk from which leader emerged last year Zigzag will keep trunk straight

Year Two Head back scaffold branches by cutting at outward facing bud This will force secondary growth and begin developing fruiting wood You can also let some branches form more scaffolds

Year Two Through summer, remove shoots that arise within about 8 inches of newly emerging central leader Prune out water sprouts, suckers and any unwanted branches

Spreading Fruit trees with natural tendency to grow upward will need help “spreading”, beginning in second year Method of placing spreaders in young branch angles to help push the branch into 45 to 60 degree angle with trunk Promotes earlier, heavier fruit production

Spreading Done in early spring when branches pliable Types of spreaders: notched pieces of wood pieces of wood with nails protruding from both ends clothespins weights tied to branches

Year three Prune leader as in year two Slightly head back scaffold branches Thin out extra branches Prune water sprouts, suckers in mid summer

Fourth year Tree should be at maximum height, so don’t prune central leader any more Should have sturdy network of scaffold branches, so will only need minor pruning from here on

Modified central leader Prune just as for central leader system, except in fourth year, cut out leader flush with topmost scaffold branch From this point on, will not let branch assume position of central leader

Espalier es pal' yay Decoratively trained flat against wall or trellis Take up less space than if grown at full diameter Provide fruit and focal point Can also shade south or west wall, cooling the home

Espalier Pruned carefully to maintain only branches against wall or trellis Practiced as art for hundreds of years Countless special designs for training

Espalier candelabra Belgian fence informal fan

Espalier Considerable amount of extra pruning time needed than when growing fruits traditionally Will yield larger fruits since competing fruits removed, branches receive more sun Major pruning 2-3 times a year with additional minor pruning throughout growing season

Espalier Can purchase plants already started in training system Can start with whip – much less expensive

Espalier Begin with very young tree Single stem will give best start Plant tree very close to south, west, east wall Or, plant at base of frame or trellis

Espalier Branches tied to framework with soft ties Purchase ties or make them If using wall, need frame to tie branches to

Espalier Common framework: Permanent stainless steel wires attached with pegs directly to wall Watch weight rot-resistant wood

Espalier When plant sends out first branches, start shaping Prune each branch and branchlet to train it to grow in direction desired If lacking symmetry, can graft bud into empty spot As branches grow, tie them gently to framework

Espalier Throughout growing season, watch each bud If branch begins to grow in incorrect spot, remove it

Pleaching Traditional pruning technique involves weaving branches of trees planted in row to form screen or arch. Vertical branches cut off, horizontal shoots trained in single plane As shoots from neighboring trees intermingle, they are pleached

Fruits tree pruning

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Fruits tree pruning