History of design and fashion - Costume of Assam
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Muga silk is Assam's prized possession, known for its golden color and strength. Sericulture is an important industry in Assam, with muga and eri silks produced traditionally. Women's handloom weaving is a cultural tradition, producing items like the mekhala skirt and patani lower garment. Motifs in weaving depict nature and everyday life. Traditional costumes vary among the Bodo, Dimasa, Mech, and Aitunia tribes of Assam, incorporating locally produced silk and cotton with distinctive styles of dress for men and women. Jewelry like the kopo phul earrings and gaam kharu bangles are notable parts of Assamese adornment.
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History of design and fashion - Costume of Assam
- 2. INTRODUCTION….. Assam is a beautiful state known for its natural beauty cultural richness and diversity. Assam is a home for many kinds of silk but its greatest gift is muga silk also called as golden silk is not only sensuous and beautiful but also strong and durable.
- 3. HISTORY… The first king of Assam shukh-pha is known to introduce silk in Assam. Silk rearing began in upper Assam and was chiefly intended to be used by royal family…
- 4. THE GOLDEN CULTURE… SERICULTURE: Assam’s handloom industry is basically silk oriented. The salubrious climate of Assam is suitable for varieties of silk worms and their host-plants, mulberry, Eri, Muga and Oak Tassar are popular and important for economic and commercial purposes
- 5. Sericulture is an important cottage industry of Assam. Eri and Muga have been producing silk traditionally since long back. Muga is the pride of the Assamese ladies.
- 6. HANDLOOMS Handloom weaving forms a cultural constituent of the woman of Assam. Home made cloths are Mekhla and Patani (lower garment of the women), chaddar (upper garment of the women), gamocha (towel), dhuti, bed sheet, etc.
- 7. WEAVING…. Weaving in Assam is so replete with artistic sensibility of women and so intimately linked to folk life. Different attachments are used for designs involving extra threads. For extra warp designs, dobby or jacquard machines are used. The use of extra warp provides the opportunity to weave elaborate designs conveniently.
- 8. Yarns of different types and colors can be incorporated lengthwise in the extra warp. However, the extra warp makes beaming difficult since it requires two or more warp beams, and the drafting of extra ends is usually complicated. Extra weft is used for designing across borders and spot figures, and for spacing designs. In extra weft designs, different types of colored yarns can be managed for different portions using just one additional pick.
- 9. Since the extra weft designing still uses the traditional process, a large number of long floats are obtained at the back, which makes muga difficult to handle.
- 10. MOTIFS…. The designs and motifs of Assamese fabrics are inspired from nature, and from familiar objects that surround them. Though the traditional motifs from the past are strictly geometrical, over time some lyrical and flowing designs have also developed.
- 11. Juhi is a prominent floral motif depicted with six or seven small petals. An interesting tree motif is widely used as a side motif. Animal and bird motifs include figures of peacocks, parrots, pigeons, lions, horses and elephants.
- 12. COLORS… Traditional mekhela is cream in color with silk thread work. Use of golden , red, blue and green colors can be seen.
- 14. WOMEN’S COSTUMES….. The mekhla is a women's skirt, usually plain but sometimes strewn with small motifs called buta. Chadar and riha are apparel for covering the upper part of a womans body, and is usually decorated with sprays of flowers and elephant motifs interspersed with leaves and sprigs, and numerous combinations of geometrical patterns. The chadar is draped over the shoulder, providing the pallu, and the riha is wrapped below the chadar, around the waist.
- 15. MEN’S COSTUMES….. The men wear dhotis, usually of silk. The chalang is a scarf that had wide usage among officers and other respected professionals in ancient Assam. Sula, a kind of shirt similar to the angarakha, is a traditional upper garment worn by Assamese men.
- 16. VISUALS OF COSTUMES OF ASSAM… GAMOCHA MEKHELA
- 17. CHADOR DHOTI
- 18. BRIDAL MEKHELA…with golden work.
- 19. THE UNUSUAL JAPI HEAD DRESS….. JAPI a cane hat used both as a hat and an umbrella. Made of takoupat leaves obtained from a wild plant called tekou, the quality of a japi depends on its workmanship.
- 20. TRIBES AND TEXTILES OF ASSAM…… Bodo TRIBES…..bodo tribe of Assam resides amidst the lush greenery of Assam. The Bodo tribal womenfolk acknowledge Mekhla as their prevalent costume. Along with the Chaddar, an upper-wrap called Riha.The men of the Bodo tribe, dresses themselves in Dhoti (an Indian loin cloth) and Chaddar, made from Endi (a material made from conglomeration of silk and cotton).
- 21. Dimasa Kachchari A Dimasa man wears a Risha similar to Dhoti but deep green in color. He uses a chaddar called Rimsao beautifully designed to cover upper half of his body. Cotton or endi turban is the common headdress. A dimasa woman puts on a skirt known as Rigu similar to Assamese Mekhela. Either it is made of cotton or silk, may be white or coloured to cover her body below the waist. For covering the upper part of her body, she uses a chaddar very artistically designed known as Rijamphai. Another chaddar also very beautifully designed know as Rikhaosa used during dances or ceremonial occasions.
- 22. DIMASA TRIBES
- 23. Mech Kachchari Mech people are simple. Their dresses are simple as well. They use hand spun and hand woven simple dress. Men wear dhoti, turban and endi shawl or chaddar. Women use a dress similar to Assamese Mekhela Chaddar but simpler than their Assamese counter parts. They also use simple ornaments. Their dresses even during dances are also simple. Mech Kacharias are famous for rearing silk worm particularly endi or eri.
- 24. Aitunia It is believed weaving was absent in original Aitunia tradition. They only weave traditional dresses for special or festive occasions.
- 25. Thai Phakes The dress of the people of this tribe includes articles of personal clothing used mainly for the purpose of covering. The Phakes wear two kinds of dress namely general dress for every day use and special dress for particular occasions. They were costumes similar to the traditional assamese costumes.
- 26. JEWELLERY…. Jewellery is a fundamental costume of any place. . The remarkable feature of Assamese jewellery is Khopo Phool, an earring which appears like an orchid. The outlook is like two small shoes paired together and crowned by a floral construct, which is again connected to a chain. Gaam Kharu is a large-sized silver bangle with shimmering gold polish. Another fashionable earring is Lokaporo, wherein two gold or ruby or mina or enamel- plated, bird figures are conjoined together, back to back. Assamese costume has cast an enchanting spell on not only India, but on foreign nations also, because of their mind-blowing perfection
- 27. Jewellery of assam Kopo phul gaam kharu
- 28. LOKAPORO
- 29. THANK YOU