How does

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[Article title]

How does visual merchandising affect consumer affective response? An intimate apparel experience

Author Details:

[Author 1 Name] Dr. Derry Law
[Author 1 Affiliation] Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong

[Author 2 Name] Dr. Christina Wong
[Author 2 Affiliation] The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong

[Author 3 Name] Dr. Joanne Yip
[Author 3 Affiliation] Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong

[Author 4 Name ]
[Author 4 Affiliation]

Corresponding author: [Name] Dr. Derry Law
[Corresponding Author’s Email] Derry.Law@inet.polyu.edu.hk

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Acknowledgments (if applicable):

The authors would like to thank The Hong Kong Polytechnic University for granting the research funding (A-PK87 and
PC0R) to this project.

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[Author 2 bio]

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Structured Abstract:

Purpose
The aim of this article is to investigate the relationship between visual merchandising elements and
consumer affective response by focusing on a function oriented product –intimate apparel.

Design/methodology/approach

Type header information here

In this paper, a different perspective on visual merchandising is offered through the different types of intimate apparel
retailers (from fashion-oriented, mass market-oriented to fashion forward). This is presented in an interpretive study of
Hong Kong Chinese female consumers, between the ages of twenty-five and thirty-five. A qualitative approach is
employed and the grounded theory method is chosen. A total of eight focus group interviews are conducted with sixty-
four subjects.

Findings

The findings indicate that participating subjects have two points of view when evaluating visual store displays, which
include utilitarian and hedonic aspects. The utilitarian aspect relates to the actual needs of consumers, such as
garment deterioration, seasonal changes and occasions. The hedonic aspect finds that the perceived female image
governs consumer interpretation and acceptance for visual displays. It also reveals that the need to be feminine sets
the guidelines to evaluating visual stimulus in stores. Display elements, such as mannequins, color, lighting and props
that emphasize feelings of feminine sexuality tend to trigger negative affective responses in consumers which finally
affect purchase intentions.

Originality/value

The authors aim to explore consumer affective response on visual stimulus in stores by considering the aesthetic,
symbolic and cultural perceptions of a function-oriented product – intimate apparel. The literature to date tends to focus
on the interaction between individual visual merchandising elements (e.g. color, lighting) with consumers. However, the
product nature and its symbolic meaning have not been seriously taken into consideration. Due to the immense market
potential in the East, applying western-developed theories may not be universally appropriate. There may be different
results and patterns in consumer behaviour. Thus, this study aims to enrich existing knowledge of atmospheric
management by including the interaction of Eastern values and product nature on affective responses.

Keywords:

Visual merchandising, Intimate Apparel, Affective, Chinese

Article Classification:

Research paper

For internal production use only

Running Heads:

Type footer information here

How does visual merchandising affect consumer affective response?
An intimate apparel experience

Abstract
Purpose – The aim of this article is to investigate the relationship between visual
merchandising elements and consumer affective response by focusing on a function
oriented product –intimate apparel.
Design/ methodology/approach – In this paper, a different perspective on visual
merchandising is offered through the different types of intimate apparel retailers
(from fashion-oriented, mass market-oriented to fashion forward). This is presented in
an interpretive study of Hong Kong Chinese female consumers, between the ages of
twenty-five and thirty-five. A qualitative approach is employed and the grounded
theory method is chosen. A total of eight focus group interviews are conducted with
sixty-four subjects.
Findings – The findings indicate that participating subjects have two points of view
when evaluating visual store displays, which include utilitarian and hedonic aspects.
The utilitarian aspect relates to the actual needs of consumers, such as garment
deterioration, seasonal changes and occasions. The hedonic aspect finds that the
perceived female image governs consumer interpretation and acceptance for visual
displays. It also reveals that the need to be feminine sets the guidelines to evaluating
visual stimulus in stores. Display elements, such as mannequins, color, lighting and
props that emphasize feelings of feminine sexuality tend to trigger negative affective
responses in consumers which finally affect purchase intentions.
Originality/value – The authors aim to explore consumer affective response on visual
stimulus in stores by considering the aesthetic, symbolic and cultural perceptions of a
function-oriented product – intimate apparel. The literature to date tends to focus on
the interaction between individual visual merchandising elements (e.g. color, lighting)
with consumers. However, the product nature and its symbolic meaning have not been
seriously taken into consideration. Due to the immense market potential in the East,
applying western-developed theories may not be universally appropriate. There may
be different results and patterns in consumer behaviour. Thus, this study aims to
enrich existing knowledge of atmospheric management by including the interaction of
Eastern values and product nature on affective responses.
Keywords Visual merchandising, Intimate Apparel, Affective, Chinese
Paper type Research paper

Introduction
The affective aspect relates the expression of emotions or feelings from consumers
towards stimulus in a store. It is also argued that a cue is important in explaining the
ways that consumers respond to different indicators in evaluating either the
performance or quality of a product (Richardson et al., 1994). The concept is
applicable on products with attributes that can be evaluated in an objective way, such
as electrical appliances. When products with both functional (e.g. focusing on the
utilitarian aspect) and aesthetical (e.g. focusing on the hedonic aspect) requirements
are taken into consideration, the identification of the cue becomes more complicated..
Taking intimate apparel as an example, fit is an important element during the
selection process. Fit is defined as the conformation to the human body with enough

1

room to move easily (Fan, Yu and Hunter, 2004)”. When it combines fashion
elements, the criteria or standard of “fit” varies in the minds of consumers due to
fashion influence. To market the products, fit is the utmost important part of buying
intimate apparel. Therefore, it is argued that regardless of the prominence of the store
atmosphere, consumers will still pay close attention to the functional details and fit of
the garment. In reality, intimate apparel retailers spend much effort in creating a
unique identity through distinctive visual merchandising strategies to provide a
positive mood for consumers, aiming to increase purchase intention (Donovan et. al. ;
Morrin and Chebat, 2005), store loyalty (Hu and Jasper, 2006) and repeat purchase
(Spangenberg et. al, 2006). Apart from stimulating a positive affective response from
consumers, appropriate visual merchandising can also lead to a series of actions from
consumers, for example, affecting spending behaviour (Chebat and Richard, 2003)
and store/merchandise perceptions (Spangenberg et al., 2006). Although retailers have
put forth much effort in visual merchandising, the outcomes vary due to cultural
differences towards the symbolic messages created by visual merchandising (Kim et
al., 2004).

Intimate apparel and fashion
Intimate apparel, used interchangeably with lingerie in this paper, is any
undergarment worn next to the skin and underneath clothes Functional aspect has
been linked with intimate apparel for a long time. However, concern with aesthetics
and market segmentation lies much with retailers while developing new intimate
apparel products. Examples can be seen among intimate apparel brands, such as the
fashion-driven brand Agent Provocateur, and mass-marketed brands, such as Wacoal
and Triumph. The addition of a fashion element draws the attention of consumers not
only to the functional aspects, but also the aesthetic aspects (Park et al., 2006). As a
high degree of fashion involvement and positive emotions help in enhancing impulse
buying, retailers pay close attention to the store atmosphere in order to provide an
unforgettable and pleasant shopping experience for consumers. In this study, intimate
apparel is chosen because it has a high functional and symbolic concern (Hart and
Dewsnap, 2001) and at the same time, has been packaged and promoted in terms of
fashionable design, making it as part of the outerwear. The duality makes it difficult
for retailers to provide the right store atmosphere and further investigation is required.

In terms of marketing focus, this paper offers focused yet practical suggestions on
visual merchandising strategies such as the choice of mannequins and color
combination by considering the unique set of Eastern perceptions on products with
both functional and aesthetic concerns.

In terms of academic focus, this study helps to understand the rationale of the impact
of cultural perceptions and product nature on consumers’ affective response towards
visual merchandising elements.

Central concepts
Emotion and Affective Responses
Emotion is the core factors in affective perspective. It affects an individual’s luminal
and subconscious level, and serves as the internal motivator that attracts us to the
things that makes us feel good or positively associate with our minds (Williamson,
2002). Individuals tend to focus on information selectively, which is consistent with
one’s mood state and later, recall the information that is mood-consistent (Mattila and

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Wirtz, 2000). Mood-based evaluations are common in individual judgment of
products or services (Isen et al., 1978; Schwarz, 1997). Russell and Geraldine (1980)
assumed that affect is an individual’s internal state comprising of both pleasure and
arousal. The model has a two dimensional matrix comprising of all affective
combinations to explain different kinds of affective responses. The degree of
emotional engagement leads to different levels of emotional response between an
impulse and ordinary buyer. Minimal expression generates large differences in terms
of shopping behavior between the two buyers (Weinberg and Wolfgang, 1982) and
develops automatic affective response for guiding further behavioral choices
(Baumeister et al., 2007). To manipulate affective responses, marketers use store
environment to either enhance or reduce product perception as the consumer cognitive,
emotional and conational aspects can be manipulated artificially (Derbaix and Abeele,
1985). A positive impact of affective pleasure can elongate the purchasing time in
terms of consumer involvement and time spent in a store (Holbrook and Gardner,
1993) and gaining customer share (Babin and Attaway, 2000). The degree of
consumer response to stimuli is interactive. An unforgettable feeling can be achieved
if the third order emotion (e.g. experience in his/her conscious mind) of a consumer is
being stimulated (Williamson, 2002) since the subconscious dominates how we think,
and feelings derive the thinking path of consumers (Hill, 2003). As a result, a minor
or intangible issue (e.g. ambient odor) can give a positive impact on the perception of
shoppers towards the retail environment/quality and encourage spending behaviour
(Chebat and Richard, 2003) in a retail setting. Although emotional impact is important
in shaping shopping behavior, the impact of emotional pleasure differs from
emotional arousal. The former stimulates consumers to shop whereas the latter causes
them to leave and has dramatic effects on store image, shopping values and store
personality (Elisabeth, 2006). Once consumers have a particular belief on the
attributes of a store, it certainly affects the time spent there (Stoel et al., 2004).

Visual Merchandising
The design of a retail environment is related to the store atmosphere creation. Kotler
(1974) defined store atmosphere as the quality of the surrounding space. It is an
important issue for inducing the desired affective response of consumers and aims to
enhance purchase probability. Based on Kolter’s thought, Donovan and Rossiter
(1982) extended the concept with physical in-store variables (layout, architecture etc.)
and the influence of social factors (type and behavior of people). Both factors can
affect the affective perception of consumers on the retail environment by selective
attention, distortion and retention of information (Kotler, 1974, Bitner, 1990; 1992,
Sherman et al., 1997). Mehrabian and Russell (1974) offered a conceptual model
based on the stimulus-organism-response paradigm to study the store environment (S),
individual’s emotional state (O) and approach-avoidance behavior (R). It was found
that the interaction of the three aspects causes a significant impact on pleasure,
arousal and dominance. Also, the arousal of an environment is taken into
consideration for measuring environmental stimulation. The arousal of an
environment is defined as its degree of novelty (new and surprising elements) and
complexity (the number of elements and change in an environment) (Merbraian and
Russell, 1974). A good retail environment design should consist of an appropriate
degree of arousal in order to induce affective pleasure (Spies et.al. 1997). However,
the combination of different elements should be taken into careful consideration since
too much arousal will lead to lack of attraction and inability to focus (Kardes, 1999).

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Based on Mehrabian and Russell’s (1974) thoughts, Babin and Darden (1995) added
self-regulation their B-D model to explain the relationship between store atmosphere
and consumer affective response. Both Mehrabin and Russell (1974), and Babin and
Darben (1995) introduced conceptual models to explain the relationship between store
stimulus and customers responses, but the interaction of product type and its
corresponding symbolic perception have not been taken into serious consideration.

Visual merchandising and consumption
Visual merchandising enhances the attractiveness of a store and its perceived image
from the viewpoint of customers. A positive mood serves as a contextual cue for
evaluating the perceived quality, image of a product and store, and purchase intention
(Bakamitsos, 2000). The impact of a pleasant store atmosphere is also positively
related to customer satisfaction (Spies et al., 1997). Atmospheric stimuli which please
the actual and emotional needs of consumers enhance the degree of consumer
participation in a store, leading to favorable purchasing behaviors (Wright et al.,
2006). In general, the store exterior and interior are the two major areas covered in
Visual Merchandising and a variety of components (color combination, product
placement, lighting arrangement, layout and highlight design, mannequin and props
selection, fixtures and fittings selection) are involved in creating a favorable shopping
atmosphere. For instance, Babin et al. (2003) found that the combination of colors and
lighting plays a critical role in influencing the purchase intention of consumers and
store patronage. Intangible store elements, such as sprayed fragrance, can stimulate
one’s affective state and help boost mental imagination (Fiore et al., 2000). Chebat et
al. (2001) found that appropriate music can affect the cognitive activity of consumers.
A positive imagery also helps in associating a better cognitive experience between
consumers and products, and intensifying purchase intentions (Mandler, 1982;
Macinnis and Price, 1987; Meyers-levy and Tybout, 1989). However, consumers’
responses can be affected by cultural difference. Chan and Tai (2001) found that
Chinese Hong Kong people rely on culture values (e.g. practical realism) to evaluate
store displays and less susceptible to environmental cues than American consumers.
Also, Chinese cultural values had a direct relationship with store atmosphere
evaluation in apparel consumption (Fok and Chong, 1996). For Vietnamese
consumers, hedonic shopping motivations were directly related to store atmosphere
evaluation in supermarkets (Nguyen, Nguyen and Barret, 2007). For Korean
consumers, different cultural expectations were found in store environment
expectations in discount stores (Park, 2005). In terms of individual visual
merchandising element, there was colour perception difference towards mall décor
between French-Canadians and Anglo-Canadians (Chebat and Morrin, 2007), store
layout and shopping intension among South African consumers (Kempen, merwe and
Sonnenberg, 2006). Therefore, cultural difference is important to influence store
atmosphere evaluation.

Symbolic goods consumption
Nowadays, consumers purchase goods not only to fulfill physical needs, but also for
the intangible meanings behind the product (Levy, 1959, Elliott, 1999). To have the
right selection, it is important to locate the right product personality and product
variants (Govers, 2004). Apart from individual concern, symbolic meaning derived
from products should also carry the right social meanings that fulfill perceived social
standards (Dittmar, 1992). Individuals use consumer goods with the right symbolic

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meanings to develop, enhance or create identity (Elliot and Wattanasuwan, 1998) and
decode related messages from consumption practices of others (Belk et al., 1982).
However, how people in social groups interpret the meanings of products and brands
might also affect individual evaluation (Ligas and Cotte, 1999). Product meanings
that attempt to fulfill the requirements of individuals may be rejected if they are
incongruent with symbolic requirements of significant referents (Elliot, 1999) or fail
to reflect the affiliation to a specific social group (Elliot and Wattanasuwan, 1998).
Among the different types of products, clothing involves a high degree of symbolic
value and social meanings (Finkelstein, 1998). It can distinguish personal difference
in terms of race, gender, time, context and taste within a group of customers (Suttkes,
1995). Apparel styles and types can also project different social meanings in terms of
distinction and identification (Gronow, 1997). In terms of intimate apparel, Hart and
Dewsnap (2001) found that looking for the right self-image is crucial in intimate
apparel purchasing and requires a unique set of considerations for marketers. Other
studies (Koff and Benavagem 1998; Ostergaard, 1999; Shim and Bickle, 1994; Singer
and Grimaijer, 1995) also support a close relationship between intimate apparel and
external social identity, self-esteem and self-image. However, how visual
merchandising interacts with consumers’ affective state on the symbolic value of
intimate apparel has not been studied in detail.

Research methodology
Although there is literature developed for fashion and retailing (DeLong, 1998;
Eckman and Wagner, 1994; Kaiers et.al, 1995), in this study, the usage of literature is
to guide the research questions and directions, make comparisons with data while
theorizing (Lempert, 2007), but not use them as a measure of the truth (Newman and
Benz, 1998). Therefore, the grounded theory is chosen to collect and analyze data in
this research. The rationale for choosing this method is that it allows for the
understanding of interactions between personal experiences of subjects in daily life.
The developed framework or theory is based on grounds of a particular issue and
group of specific subjects which reflect reality (Goulding, 2002). Also, the method
helps in understanding the rationale behind an issue. As there is little understanding
towards the interaction of store atmosphere, product perception (consumers’
understanding of a product) and affective response, the grounded theory can generate
new thoughts from the viewpoint of product end-users. The research process included
three phases of coding: open, axial and selective (Corbin and Strauss, 1990; Strauss,
1987; Strauss and Corbin, 1990). Throughout the open-coding procedure, opinions
were grouped into various codes in order to develop concepts to facilitate the next
steps in data collection. The open coding stopped when no new ideas were generated
from the raw data. Inter-relationships were developed from codes collected from
open-coding. Further data collection was implemented for the purpose of acquiring
information on the developed relationships and finally, selective coding was
completed in order to determine the central and abstract ideas of the study.

To validate the results, both credibility and transferability were considered (Goulding,
2002). For credibility, fifteen members from the first five focus group interviews were
invited to assess the accuracy of opinions that were being coded and related.
Inaccurate reflections of meanings were modified immediately during discussions.
For transferability, transcripts were given to another academic staff who is teaching
consumer behaviour to re-code the raw data. Mutual consent was obtained about the
core concept. The result was further assessed by a marketing manager of a well-

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known intimate apparel store in Hong Kong. The visual merchandising strategy was
modified with regards to the suggested findings.

Research subjects
To execute the data collection, focus group interviews were conducted. Although the
opinion of subjects may be affected by the group setting and dynamics (Sliverman,
2008), it is believed that group dynamics also help reveal the inner thoughts of
subjects (Esterberg, 2002). In this study, females aged 25 to 35 were selected as the
research subjects. Male consumers are not included as per the advice of two lingerie
retail managers in Hong Kong that it is not common for male consumers to shop
lingerie for their partners or as presents. The choice of the age range is because people
over 24 are regarded as adults and this age is relatively high in proportion for working
women in Hong Kong (Hong Kong Statistical Department, 2007). Asian working
females in this age group have a relatively high propensity to spend on luxury or
beauty-related products (Chadha and Hushand, 2006). Participants for the first two
interviews were recruited outside a lingerie select shop. For the other subjects, they
were referred by the Hong Kong office of an international lingerie retailer. They were
the customers and approached to participate in the research while for the rest of the
interviews, the selection criteria was based on theoretical sampling suggested by the
grounded theory method (Strauss and Corbin, 1990; Strauss and Corbin, 1998) where
subjects should reflect the repetitiveness of the emerged concepts (McDaniel and
Gates, 1998). (table. 1) An honorarium of HKD 300 was given to each subject. The
interviews took place at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University from December 2007
to August 2008. Also, the actual context has to be considered before making a
sampling decision (Richards and Morse, 2007), and thus, purposive sampling is
selected. The data collection process ended when the concepts generated from the
subjects were saturated. Finally, a total of eight focus group interviews were
conducted with sixty-four subjects. There are no conflicts of interest between the
subjects and the researchers.

Table 1. Subjects’ Demographic information

Age
- 25 – 29 22 (34.4%)
- 30 – 35 42 (65.6%)
Mean / S.D. 29.6/ 3.06
Occupation
- Designer 9 (14%)
- White collar 26 (40.6%)
- Housewife 3 (4.7%)
- Education 6 (9.4%)
- Medical 6 (9.4%)
- Sales & Marketing 5 (7.8%)
- Others 9 (14.1%)
Total no. of subjects 64 (100%)

Interview materials
The interview materials were developed in accordance to different intimate apparel
retailers, from those that are fashion-oriented, mass market-oriented to fashion-

6

forward. To be specific, fashion-oriented products have a close connection with
existing fashion trends (e.g. U.S. brand Victoria’s Secret), and mass market-oriented
products are related to basic designs which are timeless and target the general public
(e.g. Japanese brand Wacol) . Fashion-forward products are related to avant-garde or
trendy designs (e.g. British brand agent provocateur). Design and lingerie
professionals were invited to verify the selections. The inclusion of industry
professionals provides an objective evaluation on the research stimulus (Grbich,
2007). The selected pictures were used as stimuli in the interviews. Semi-structured
questions (see appendix) were asked to collect individual opinions on the affective
response towards the visual merchandising elements. The first two interviews acted as
the pre-test. Subjects did not find any difficulties in understanding the questions but
additional photos about store layout were added.

Data collection process
The focus group interview was divided into two sections. The first section focused on
intimate apparel consumption behaviors. The second section focused on the affective
responses on store display pictures. The interviews were taped and lasted for one and
a half to two hours. Research memos were completed afterwards to develop
hypothetical relationships from the data. The interview content was transcribed by a
professional translator after the data was collected, from Chinese to English. Finally,
abstract concepts were developed to illustrate components affecting affective pleasure.

The first two interviews were adopted as a blueprint to establish the codes, concepts
and inter-relationships for open coding. For the third and fourth group selection,
physical needs and differences in aesthetic preferences were used as the guidelines to
locate subjects. The fourth focus group interview found that subjects with aesthetic
training or backgrounds tend to accept fashionable or seductive window displays.
Thus, focus was put onto subjects with or without a strong aesthetic sense in the last
four interviews.

Data analyzing process
The collected data were analyzed in three stages, including open, axial and selective
coding. The constant comparison method was applied to look for concepts from the
interview data, memos and observation notes, and served as the guideline to look for
the next subjects.

In the open coding stage, data were analyzed line by line and grouped into codes until
patterns were noticed. To ensure the appropriateness of coding, another researcher
was asked to code the transcripts (Goulding, 2000) and a mutual consent was obtained.
When the patterns were identified, the open-coding stopped. Focus was shifted to the
code linkages followed by axial coding. Also, better-illustrated stories were selected
as cues to look for new insights. The data collection stopped when theoretical
saturation occurred. Finally, the emerging relationships were grouped into higher
order categories leading to a core theory that explains the phenomenon.

Research findings and analysis
A grounded theory analysis of the narratives of Chinese Hong Kong female
consumers generated findings in three stages. Detailed findings of the three stages are
as follows.

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Opening Coding
Three categories were developed, including: 1) the ideal female image; 2) perceived
socially accepted female image and 3) product nature. Each category summarized
codes and concepts generated from the interviewees.

Ideal female image
An ideal female image serves as a standard to evaluate the attractiveness and
appropriateness of an intimate apparel display and has a close connection between the
corresponding affective responses on the visual display. The relationship is strong
when dealing with hedonic displays. Hedonic displays focus on the sensational and
emotional side of products rather than product functions. Visual merchandising
features with the use of hedonic displays: 1) use human-like mannequins either with
heavy make-up/ hourglass body shapes or seductive body gestures, 2) make use of
props to enhance a seductive mood, 3) project an ideal female to consumers from the
perspective of retailers, and 4) suggest a strong feeling of femininity. Consumers not
only evaluate from the viewpoint of preferences on the aesthetic content, but there is a
strong need to look for the possibility of fit with the perceived images in the displays.
It is without doubt that retailers create visually pleasing displays, but there is
discrepancy between the expectations of consumers and the images projected by
retailers as shown in the following quotes.

“Those mannequins’ body shape look unreal to me, I don’t see how I will look good
in those lingerie styles.” (Interviewee 5, 25, Housewife)

“I guess not many females have body shapes similar to those mannequins in the
window.”(Interviewee 11, 28, Pharmacist)

“I feel that there is a long conceptual distance between my body shape and those in
the window display” (Interviewee 16, 30, Fashion Designers)

However, there is an exception where positive responses were obtained and these are
the headless mannequins. It was found that headless mannequins allow consumers to
put themselves into the display and imagine themselves in the garments. Therefore, it
decreases the psychological defense of having a surreal feeling on the mannequin’s
body shape. Once the defense is low, consumers will show interest in the displayed
lingerie. Another factor contributing to a favourable response on mannequins is body
shape. Discussions revealed that the ideal body shape in the mind of the consumers is
one which is ordinary, but with an ideal proportion. Natural bust lines, elongated legs
and slender body shapes give consumer a positive impression and allow them to
continue the fantasy, showing femininity yet at the same time, healthy, which is their
goal. The following quotes further support this idea.

“I certainly want to put on that lingerie, as it (headless) allows me to put myself in
that position, I’m starting to think of trying on that style.” (Interviewee 20, 25, model)

“This display just makes me feel that the garments are too mature and feminine for
me. In reality, people will not put on heavy make-up and set their hair (human-like
mannequins) in such a style to match the lingerie. It is hard to find ladies in the mass
market who have such an hourglass shape. I don’t think that I will look good in those
garments. It is because I am not that kind of woman and I do not have a good figure.”

8

(interviewee 34, 26, Merchandiser)

Chinese consumers treat lingerie display mannequins as a reference to determine the
congruence of individual female image. Mannequins with a high degree of similarity
in body shape and proportion tend to leave a better impression on consumers. The
headless ones further enhance the impression by allowing consumers to substitute
themselves. Therefore, from an individual consumer perspective, the first criterion of
a visual display to determine an acceptable yet pleasant feeling is the mannequin.

Perceived social rules
Apart from individualized ideal female images, consumers also expect a visual
display that fulfils social rules. This is a fundamental requirement that encourages
them to further investigate other elements of a display. Again, mannequins have a
crucial role in influencing consumer cognitive understanding on products and meeting
social requirements. Human mannequins with heavy make-up, seductive facial
expressions, exaggerated gestures and body shapes capture attention immediately.
However, the response may not be positive. The mannequins project a sexual and
mature feeling to the products. Instead of stimulating consumers to feel that the
products are attractive, consumers tend to feel that the display projects are indecent as
the following quote states.

“The graphics, feminine color combinations (fuchsia, violet and gold) and the sexy
mannequins drew my attention to the window and made me stop immediately and take
a closer look. Although they are visually stimulating, they may not be suitable for
Chinese people. The color combination is too much for us (Chinese consumers). Most
of us prefer subtle or neutral colors because they make us feel acceptable
psychologically. Wearing sharp, fancy and see-through designs is too much for
us.”(Interviewee 13, 25, Marketing Executive)

Consumer interaction with the other display elements is important to stimulate
positive involvement. For example, color and texture create strong symbolic messages
followed by props and product styles. The warm tone; red, and the cool tones; black
and violet, project a strong image of femininity, while for texture, lace, silk, satin and
chiffon are classified as feminine fabrics and evoke a strong image of femininity. The
combination of prior perceptions of mannequins, color and texture, create a very
strong visual impact on consumers where they felt that the display composition is too
much for the Chinese. The consumers perceived that the public would not prefer an
overly sexy or sexually driven image. When displays have these elements and use
them as focal points to draw consumer attention, it may lead to a negative affective
response. The following quotes provide a detailed understanding of the idea.

“The chiffon-like curtain symbolizes the mannequin as a seductive woman. Also the
usage of an eye-mask gives an S&M feeling. The whole presentation projects a feeling
that it is not suitable for ordinary customers.”(Interviewee 28, 33, Production
Manager)

“I don’t think a sexy presentation works on Chinese women, my mum always tell us
have to be decent and only prostitutes wear ultra sexy lingerie.” (Interviewee 25, 35,
Pattern Maker)

9

“I do not prefer displays showing the reality (bedroom scene) of our daily lives in the
windows, especially compositions with an embarrassing feeling and adopting
prostitute-like mannequins.” (Interviewee 4, 28, Surveyor)

“It’s annoying to see a bedroom scene with raunchy mannequins in a display”
(Interviewee 26, 26, Policewoman)

Sexy or raunchy displays intensify the negative affective response among Chinese
consumers, making them feel that buying the lingerie is socially incorrect. Such a
feeling further affects the approach response (e.g. store entrance) and the action even
makes consumers feel that it results in losing one’s face.

“I feel so embarrassed if other people saw me enter a store with such indecent
displays.”(Interviewee 34, 26, Merchandiser)

“Certainly it is a face-losing behavior if my friends/relatives/family saw me visiting
those (with raunchy display) stores.”(Interviewee 19, 30, Doctor)

There is an exceptional case where consumers showed a positive attitude on window
displays with abstract mannequins in an intimate relationship. Chinese consumers are
not against sex-related themes in displays, but prefer a high degree of subtlety.
Displays with explicit sexual feelings are rated as socially not preferred. The
following quote indicates the concept.

“The arrangement is like a normal relationship between couples. This makes me feel
that it should be a bedroom scene; therefore, wearing lingerie is normal. Also, you
can see, the mannequins are close to us in terms of the body shape. They are white in
color and do not have heads, which just presents a mood. In my opinion, Chinese
consumers prefer something subtle. The white mannequins contrast to the dark
colored lingerie is just stylish. The whole presentation is close to us and the most
important point is, it does not feel exaggerated. ” (Interviewee 1, 25, Piano Instructor)

Product nature
In comparison with outerwear, intimate apparel is treated as a personal issue. Subjects
expressed that it is not expected to be seen in public. Among Chinese consumers, it is
an embarrassing and unspeakable topic in public. Once intimate apparel is seen by
others, the wearer becomes psychologically uncomfortable that she will feel
embarrassing. The negative emotion further enhances negative feelings on intimate
apparel as the following quotes state.

“I admit that showing the bra strap is fun and fashionable, but it’s hard to try it here
(Hong Kong). I remember one day, I was wearing a pair of low-waist jeans, my panty
was showing and colleagues asked me to tuck my shirt in as it was seen by others.”
(Interviewee 14, 29, Teacher)

“I personally think that showing the waistband of the underpants is chic. I saw many
western girls dressed like that. Except that my figure is not perfect. However, it is also
not totally accepted in Chinese society. People here (Hong Kong) see you as an
indecent girl” (Interviewee 37,28, Fashion Designer)

10

When consumers look at an intimate apparel display, its perceived product nature
governs Chinese consumers to apply a socially accepted rule for evaluation. As
window displays serve as a projection of social values, the rules will be used
indirectly to determine the corresponding affective responses.

Axial coding
Dimensional analysis was used after open coding. It is a higher abstraction of codes
and categories generated in opening coding. The dynamic relationships of the data
were grouped under six aspects, including phenomenon, causal conditions, context,
intervening conditions, action strategies and consequence.

The first element is phenomenon. It is related to the discrepancy between the intended
response of retailers and the actual response from consumers towards the visual
merchandising strategy. It was found that intimate apparel retailers usually project a
feminine yet sexy image in visual merchandising strategies to capture the attention of
consumers. Although consumers indeed respond to feminine displays, it is not in a
positive way. The negative response is due to the low degree of congruity between
Chinese consumers and the female image created by intimate apparel retailers.

The second element is casual condition, which relates to the events leading to the
development of the phenomenon. It was found that mannequins have a dominant
effect on consumer affective response. There is a great perceptual distance between
the body image of display mannequins and Chinese consumers. On the one hand,
retailers believe that using raunchy or sexy displays can create a fantasy in the minds
of consumers, and lead to affective pleasure. However, Chinese consumers prefer a
feminine yet subtle female image. When retailers elect to present sexy displays openly,
it causes great discrepancy. The difference is due to the inappropriate interpretation of
western female beauty standards in the Chinese. Leung (2000) claimed that body
culture is important in the Western cultural paradigm while for the Chinese,
experiential somaesthetics is more important for determining the attractiveness of a
woman. Thus, Chinese consumers enjoy a subtle yet feminine sensation generated
from an ordinary mannequin rather than an hourglass figure with raunchy body
gestures.

The third element is context, which is the specific location of background variables
that influence further actions/strategies. It was found that there is a large difference
between intimate apparel retailers and consumers on the preference of ideal female
image. The difference mainly deals with the impact of Chinese social values on
acceptable female image, intimate apparel perception and the need to sustain face
within groups. It was found that purchasing intimate apparel is not just a personal, but
also a social issue. Chinese consumers pay close attention to the difference in
perceived and actual female image projected from intimate apparel retailers. The
rationale is that looking for a socially accepted meaning is important even if a product
is for private use. Although Chinese consumers admire western beauty standards,
there is only a superficial influence. They may adopt the western style of physical
dress, but the Chinese concept of beauty still dominates the degree of application
(Leung, 2000). As the need to maintain group esteem is more important in Chinese
society (Hofstede, 1991; Triandis, 1998), whether an action/ product can sustain face
(Yang, 1993) is a concern.

11

The fourth element is intervening condition which is the mediating variable of
phenomenon. When consumers look at intimate visual displays, they tend search for
the symbolic meaning and evaluate with individual standards/perceptions. It is
especially important that a display can turn an affective pleasure into arousal. Chinese
consumers are very sensitive to elements on social image, and rank it higher than
personal image (Ting-Toomey & Kurogi, 1998). The combination of feminine colors
(e.g. fuchsia, sexy textures (e.g. lace and chiffon), sexy props (e.g. eye-mask) and
sexy mannequins stimulates indecent feelings, which goes against the typical Chinese
female image in their minds. Thus, it is no surprise that Chinese consumers have such
a negative affective response, especially since sex-related issues are a taboo among
most of the Chinese (Ruan, 1992).

The fifth element is action strategy, the activities/action that occurs in response to the
intervening conditions and phenomenon. Chinese consumers will look for other
intimate apparel brands with a high degree of self-congruity in visual displays. They
will also refer to mass-market brands which match their perceived socially accepted
standards. Finally, positive affective response happens when they find a brand
integrating subtlety in their store displays and increases their intention to buy. A
favorable preference of mannequins (e.g. ordinary body shape, headless, white skin
color and no exaggerated body gestures) provides information that helps in
constructing the proper social self image. As Chinese consumers express that they
prefer a subtle and ordinary display rather than one that emphasizes sex, it shows that
conforming to perceived social rules is very important. To a certain extent, purchasing
lingerie is a type of consumption that involves face since Chinese consumers are not
only concerned about their own faces, but also other’s faces during the consumption
process (Gao, 1998). Therefore, if consumers have any hesitations towards the display
images, they will look for references in the market.

The sixth element is consequence which relates to the intended and unintended action
strategies towards phenomenon. Three possible consequences may happen. First, the
affectively arousing displays may increase the approach response of Chinese
consumers, but will not increase the possibility of a trying on the item or purchase
response. Secondly, if the visual display projects a raunchy or immoral feeling, the
affective arousal will turn Chinese consumers away. Thirdly, they will recall
negatively towards such brands in their minds.

Table.2 Developed Relationships in Axial Coding
Phenomenon
• There is a discrepancy between the intended response of retailers and the
actual response from consumers towards the visual merchandising strategies.

Causal conditions

• Consumers prefer a feminine and subtle female image.

• Consumers do not prefer too sexy or raunchy visual displays.

• Consumers feel that there is a great perceptual distance between the body
figure of mannequins and their own.

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• Consumers do not prefer openly exposed displays and layout.

Context
• The difference in the interpretation of an ideal female image between intimate
apparel retailers and consumers.

• The perceived socially accepted female image.

• The social perception on intimate apparel.

• The importance of face among Chinese consumers.

Intervening conditions
• The interpretation of the symbolic meanings of visual merchandising
elements.

Action strategies
• Consumers search for brands with self-congruity in their displays.

• Consumers recall mass-marketed brands as the socially accepted standard.

• Consumers prefer to visit intimate stores with subtle displays and closed
layouts.

Consequence
• Consumer approach response increases, but the trial/actual responses may not
increase.

• Causes affective arousal on visual merchandising

• Finally, negative brand re-calls occur.

Selective coding: perceived female image theory on visual stimulus

It was found with the grounded theory approach that perceived female image theory
on visual stimulus explains the relationship between the impact of intimate apparel
visual merchandising and consumer affective responses. The theory has grounds
with Chinese female consumers and also other theoretical support from affective
research.

From the response of subjects towards mannequins, colors and props, it can be
summarized that the perceived female image plays an important role in influencing
affective responses. Chinese consumers perceive a close relationship between
lingerie and female image. Although Chinese consumers endorse both traditional and
western values (Zhang and Shabitt, 2003) but the western influence on their cultural
beliefs and norms is minimal (Leung et al., 2005), especially in terms of female
image (Leung, 2000). In terms of appearance, Chinese consumers adopt western
trends in order to transform themselves and build themselves socially (Leung, 2000).
Intimate apparel is not supposed to be seen in public and there are fewer changes in
trends. It relates to the private self. Therefore, western influence may not be as

13

strong. The findings indicated that Chinese consumers treat intimate apparel as a tool
for being female, and not being feminine. Craik (1994) stated that being female
refers to a biological classification whereas being feminine relates to social and
cultural attributes. When selecting intimate apparel, consumers pay close attention to
the functional store images (Doyle and Fenwick, 1974; Ghosh, 1990). When
selecting fashion apparel, consumers will pay close attention to the symbolic store
images (Sirgy, 1985). Hence, the perceived female image becomes an inherent
attribute for guiding consumers in their evaluation of visual stimulus.

The findings revealed that there is a gap between what retailers deliver and what
consumers perceive. Retailers that sell lingerie would most likely project emotions
that arouse and are pleasant to consumers. The findings showed that Chinese
consumers may feel distressed or unpleasant (Russell, 1980). The arrangements of
display elements (color combination, design principles, window styling, and product
selection) may be aesthetically pleasing, but symbolically distressing. Hence,
Chinese consumers pay close attention to the symbolic values behind visual
merchandising elements and the perceived social standard. As consumers expressed
that intimate apparel is a part of social self formation, visual displays become an
important channel for evaluating appropriateness as shown in the following quote.

I remember that I saw a display, with curvy mannequins and emphasis on the breast
size, heavy make-up, with party-like hair style, posing in a seductive way and
wearing see-through underwear. The whole scenario felt like strippers in a night
club to me. I may glance at it, but frankly speaking, it didn’t suit me very much. It is
because I am not the type of woman that was projected.” (Interviewee 53, 33, Artist)

The quote implies that consumers have preset standards in evaluating a display. The
standard relates to whether indecent, immoral feelings are projected through various
visual elements. The feelings of indecency are socially constructed. The stripper
example that is mentioned conceptualizes the feeling of indecency. The way that the
mannequins are dressed and color combinations symbolize indecent women. As a
result, such visual displays with similar color combinations and styling will
immediately trigger the feeling of indecency. The result extends Babin and Darden’s
(1995) model of the environmental impact on consumer affective responses. A
perceived socially accepted image is similar to their moderator concept. However,
the impact is not only focused on shopping emotions and consumer evaluations of
the shopping experience, but also on product perception. Through different sets of
visual merchandising cues (e.g. color, display props, mannequins etc.), consumers
associate symbolic meanings (e.g. raunchy, indecent) with intimate apparel. Thus,
additional personalities are added to the product. As the product relates to the
formation of social self, any deviations of social meaning will further trigger a
negative affective response and such a minimal expression can lead to a dramatic
impact on decisions (Weinberg and Wolfgang, 1982). Also, the degree of aesthetic
knowledge can increase the degree of attention and awareness only. Sexy and
raunchy displays merely draw the attention of curious consumers to the store, but for
purchasing decisions, the perceived female image still governs the evaluation
process as shown in the following quotes.

“I remember that I was attracted by the sexy (lingerie) display on Russell Street,
with raunchy mannequins standing on the balcony. They were all wearing see-

14

through, shocking pink lingerie and garter. They were just so sexy; they immediately
aroused my desire to take a look in the store. (Did you finally buy it?) Well, I admire
the way that they were displayed, but for me, I just prefer something simple and
stylish. It’s because I am not that kind of woman, the products are suitable for those
working in a nightclub.” (Interviewee 43, 35, Fashion designers)

“I admired the X-rated display styles and wanted to take a closer look. However, I
definitely won’t try them on because they represent an indecent woman in our
(Chinese) community.” (Interviewee 45, 34, Fashion Stylist)

Discussion and implication

Kjeldgaard and Askegaard (2006) suggested that there is less expectation for
products with universal functions to conform to local values, but when the product
itself ties to social and cultural experiences, the local context should not be
disregarded. When drafting strategies for the store environment, intimate apparel
retailers should take this suggestion into account. This is especially true for
international well-known brands. A unified cooperate image is important, but
perceived localness is also critical. For products tied to aesthetic and social elements,
the degree of perceived localness becomes a critical point regarding product
acceptance. In intimate apparel, both function and aesthetics are important.
Therefore, in designing a retail environment, attention should be paid to the cultural
and symbolic meanings of various stimuli (for example color, graphics) since the
stimuli have direct impacts on the emotion state of individuals and approach-
avoidance behaviors (Mehrabian and Russell, 1974). Although the degree of novelty
(new and surprising) and complexity (the number of elements and change in an
environment) are also key elements for stimulating affective response (Merbraian
and Russell, 1974), an adjustment should be made between the content (for example
raunchy ideas) and consumer perception (for example sensitivity to sex-related
products) (Spies et.al., 1997) if a positive affective response is expected. With
reference to the Chinese female consumers, display presentations stimulating
affective pleasure should fit the perceived female image. Consumers like to see
visually stimulating displays and in-store highlights, but close attention should be
paid to the symbolic values of the display content. Chinese consumers link indecent
feelings to the violation of social perception of female images, leading to a negative
perception of losing face (Gao, 1998; Joy, 2001). Group face is more important than
individual face (Li and Su, 2007), and since the Chinese does not view themselves as
a single entity (Sun, 1991), they will extend the decision to his/her entire group (for
example family, friends and relatives) (Joy, 2001) and try their best to act in
accordance with social expectations (Yang, 1981). As a result, such displays may
create awareness at the initial stage, but may prevent further positive consumer
responses due to the conflict of the perceived and projected female image.

In terms of academic implications, this study reveals the importance of perceived
social rules for direct evaluation criteria in a collective group. A small difference in
the symbolic interpretation of a display element can lead to a completely different
affective response between cultural groups. For instance, understanding the core
value behind the response (for example enhancing face) can further predict the
agent(s) stimulating different affective responses.

15

In terms of marketing implications, intimate apparel carries a relatively strong social
meaning when compared with other apparel products. Therefore, retailers should
allow consumers to have more personal affective interaction with the display. For
instance, by using abstract form mannequins with natural body shapes and gestures,
consumers are able to increase cognitive and affective interplay in their minds. Also,
as the mannequin is the key element in delivering affective pleasure/arousal, natural
body shapes can decrease the perception that only an ideal or hourglass shape can
successfully carry out the garments. Then, it raises the degree of wearability in the
minds of consumers.

Attention should also be paid to the arrangement of display elements. Retailers are
advised not to use all elements that carry strong feminine meanings. Moreover, the
symbolic store-image approach is suitable for a specific consumer group and product
lines only. Local values should be considered for the mass market to avoid affective
arousal.

Research limitations and further studies

There are several limitations in this study. In terms of product variety, only one
function oriented product; intimate apparel, is adopted. For subjects, only female
consumers are involved. Regarding the impact of aesthetic background on affective
response, additional numbers of subjects from different aspects of the creative
industry should be involved for further study. For the future, it is recommended that
a diversity of function oriented products be adopted in order to develop a more
comprehensive study. The study revealed that social perception plays an important
role in manipulating Chinese consumer cognitive and affective responses towards
visual displays. It is suggested that consumers from other Asian countries be
included so as to provide a general understanding of the issue. Also, a comparative
study of face and affective response can be done between the east and the west or
within other Asian countries.

Conclusion

This study investigates consumer affective response on visual stimulus in stores by
considering the aesthetic and symbolic aspects of a function-oriented product -
intimate apparel. The congruity between the perceived fashion image and images
projected from stores serves as a moderator that affects the actual purchase decision.
Opinions compiled from an in-depth study of 64Chinese Hong Kong female
consumers lead to the conclusion that having the right perceived female image is
crucial in influencing affective responses towards visual displays. It is found that
attention should also be paid to the balance of a unified cooperate images and
perceived localness while determining visual merchandising strategies. For instance, a
small difference, such as the choice of sexy mannequins can hit the taboo of
consumers and create a negative feeling and mood in their mind. In particular,
Chinese consumers rank social expectations as important, the deviation of perceived
localness may lead to a negative perception of losing face. Furthermore, the result
indicates that when products entail both utilitarian and aesthetic concerns, social and
local values should also be addressed as they can affect consumer shopping mood,
approach response and purchase decision. In conclusion, consumer affective response

16

and social perception are inter-related and this study endeavours to stimulate further
research in this area.

Acknowledgement
The authors would like to thank The Hong Kong Polytechnic University for granting
the research funding (A-PK87 and PC0R) to this project.

Remarks
With regards to the details of the application of findings on lingerie specialty stores
in Hong Kong, interested parties are welcome to write to the authors. We would be
pleased to provide additional information and continue the dialogue. For the display
pictures, please refer to the following web site for the details.

http://ejm-intimatedisplays.blogspot.com/

17

Appendix Interview questions

Opening Coding and Aixal coding

Problem recognition
• How often do you purchase intimate apparel?
• How often do you source the information about intimate apparel?
• Do you have any regular stimulus to arouse your attention to the need?

Information search
• Can the product type shorten your information search process?
• Any favorite channels?
• Can the product types shorten your information search process?
• Discuss the impact of brand names on your information search process.
• Discuss the impact of window displays on your information search process.

Store atmosphere discussion
• Discuss the impact of visual merchandising elements, including mannequins,
color, props, and product placements.
• Discuss the feeling generated by the visual merchandising elements.
• Discuss personal response/feelings/ experiences with the visual
merchandising elements.
• What element, in particular, stimulates your mentioned personal response?

Consumer response
• Share your views on the impact of window display/ in-store highlights and
any further action

Selective coding
• Do you have any fundamental guidelines when evaluating a lingerie display?
• Which window display(s)/ in-store highlight(s) match your individual
preference?
• How do you evaluate the mannequins? Do they project your personal image?
If yes, in what way? If no, in what ways?
• What is your preferred female image in your mind? Please elaborate.
• How does the female image contribute to your interpretation of window
display elements?
• Can you recall a lingerie display that made you feel pleased/ relaxed? Why?
• Can you recall a lingerie display that made you feel annoyed/ distressed?
Why?

* Pictures were shown in the discussions about store environment.
* In depth questioning was employed throughout the interviews.

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