Inside the Mind of a Perfumer
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The document explores the intricate world of perfumery, discussing the structure of perfumes through their head, heart, and base notes, as well as scent similarity among various fragrances. It introduces the concept of a fragrance map to visually represent relationships between perfumes, particularly highlighting the works of the Guerlain family and Sophia Grojsman. The conclusion emphasizes the creative complexity involved in the art of perfuming and the uniqueness of individual scent palates.
Inside the Mind of a Perfumer
- 1. Inside the Mind of a Perfumer by Vietanh Nguyen
- 2. “The scent of a woman lingers in the mind long after it fades.” - Nadine Gordimer
- 3. Contents A Question on Scent Similarity The Architecture of a Perfume Toward a Fragrance Map Perfumes of the Guerlains and Sophia Grojsman as Seen on a Fragrance Map Scent Palate as a Strange Attractor Conclusion References
- 4. “I was mindlessly reading a magazine when I was overwhelmed by a scent memory. I was reminded of meeting my husband, which could only mean La Prairie. I knew that was impossible since that signature fragrance has been discontinued for many years. A closer look revealed a scent strip for the new Chloe. Am I mistaken, or are they very similar? ANY THOUGHTS?” - Sarina A Question on Scent Similarity
- 5. The Architecture of a Perfume Head Note The initial impact of a fragrance, which appears within the first few minutes. After a few minutes, the head note evaporates and is replaced by the Heart Note The key fragrances and personality of the perfume that lasts for several hours. After a few hours, the heart note evaporates and is replaced by the Base Note The residual smell, the heavy molecules.
- 6. La Prairie & Chloe (New) Are they similar? 5 of the corresponding notes of the two perfumes are similar.
- 7. L’Heure Bleue & Samsara “I was torn between L’Heure Bleue and Samsara (which I do love as well) for my next purchase, and L’Heure Bleue finally won.” - A visitor on fragrantica.com
- 8. L’Heure Bleue & Apres L’Ondee 62 visitors on fragrantica.com claimed that L’Heure Bleue reminded them of Apres l’Ondee.
- 9. Toward a Fragrance Map Each perfume with its multiple-note composition can be thought of as living in a multidimensional world, and a dimensionality-reduction algorithm can be applied to bring them down onto a 2-dimensional map where similar perfumes stay close together.
- 10. Perfumes of the Guerlains and Sophia Grojsman as Seen on a Fragrance Map
- 11. The Guerlains Most perfumes created by the Guerlains (Aimee, Jacques and Jean-Paul) are based on the scent of vanilla. Sophia Grojsman Many perfumes created by Sophia Grojsman are based on the scent of rose. When the perfumes of the Guerlains and Sophia Grojsman are mapped onto a fragrance map, as shown on the previous slide, they cluster and are distinguishable from each other.
- 12. “So we have our theme, our idea; now we have to add something of ourselves: our own desires and – this is the most complex part – our personality.” - Jean-Claude Ellena on the creative process of a perfumer
- 13. Scent Palate as a Strange Attractor Jacques Guerlain Trajectory Jacques Guerlain Attractor?
- 14. Scent Palate as a Strange Attractor Jean-Paul Guerlain Trajectory Jean-Paul Guerlain Attractor?
- 15. Scent Palate as a Strange Attractor Grojsman Trajectory Grojsman Attractor?
- 16. Conclusion “There is nothing infinite apart from finite things.” - D. T. Suzuki
- 17. References Roja Dove, The Essence of Perfume Jean-Claude Ellena, Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent Jean-Claude Ellena, The Diary of a Nose Jan Moran, Fabulous Fragrances II Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez, Perfumes: The Guide Simon Cotton, Every Molecule Tells a Story Ray Kurzweil, How to Create a Mind: The Secret of Human Thought Revealed Julien Sprott, Strange Attractors: Creating Patterns in Chaos L'Heure Bleue Guerlain for Women, http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Guerlain/L-Heure- Bleue-208.html