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Order Out of Chaos
The Designs of Donna Karan
               by
         Vietanh Nguyen
Contents
Introduction
The Signature Pieces
The Creative Process
The Creative Process as a
Dynamical System
Conclusion
References
Introduction




“I live in a constant state of chaos; it’s what drives me to create.”

                                                     -- Donna Karan
Introduction




“Because Donna Karan brings some Zen into the lives of crazed
working women.”
            -- Vanity Fair on citing Donna Karan as a Fashion Week Designer
The
Signature Pieces

Draped
Column
Dress
The
Signature Pieces

Bare
Shoulder
Dress
The
Signature Pieces

Belt
The
Signature Pieces

Corset
The
Signature Pieces

V-Neck
Sheer
Bodysuit
The
Signature Pieces

Hosiery
The Creative Process as Seen by Karan



“Each season I start where I began – with the body.”

“How the clothes relate to the body, how they move and feel, is
what’s important to me.”
The Creative Process as Seen by Karan



“I don’t see just one woman when I design.
  It’s always a universe of women.
  Strong, passionate women,
  women who are true to themselves and their visions.
  I see clothes as a canvas to their individuality.
  The woman should always be the first thing you see, not her
clothes.”
The Creative Process as Seen by Karan



“… I have found that the intersection of East and West is a realm
of endless creativity, a place of emotional and aesthetic energy I
return to again and again, each time finding something new to
explore.”
The Creative Process as Seen by Karan




“I inhale all the beautiful inspiration I can, and then exhale it into a
collection.”
                                                     -- Donna Karan
The Creative Process
              as a Dynamical System


The creative process can be modeled as a dynamic open system
operating in the chaos of an energy flow and going through a
phase transition. At the phase transition, the energy flux through
the system becomes organized by what is called a strange
attractor into emerging new ordered patterns.
In Dialogue
with the Universe


First there is an open system
operating in an energy or
information flux - there is an
exchange of entropy between
the outside and the inside.
As a
Bioenergetics Process


    The resulting coupling is similar
    to that of a bioenergetics
    process, where the “foodstuffs”
    represent the inspiration and the
    assembled “ATP” acts as an
    intermediary between the
    provision and the use of
    inspiration.
A Cascade of Catalytic Steps




Upon encountering with “hormones”, the “ATP” may start off a
cascade of catalytic steps.
Phase Transition



The cascade may lead to instabilities through repeated self-
amplifying feedback. At such a point of instability, or a bifurcation
point, the system goes through a phase transition. At the phase
transition, ordered patterns may emerge spontaneously through a
strange attractor.
Strange Attractor




“The form which embodies that which appeared in consciousness
– that is to be held within consciousness.”

                                           -- Upanishads
Strange Attractor


What kind of orbit could be
drawn in a bounded space so
that it would never repeat itself
and never cross itself?

The energy flow that produced
chaos begins to become
organized by the strange
attractor into emerging new
patterns.
Strange Attractor




“Curving back upon my own nature, I create again and again.”

                                           -- Bhagavad-Gita
Poincaré Returns
Exposing an Attractor’s Structure



   To see the structure within, a
   slice can be taken through an
   attractor, a so-called Poincaré
   section or Poincaré return
   map.

   The map reduces a three-
   dimensional flow to two
   dimensions without loss of
   meaningful information.
Tangle within a Poincaré Section




 Slices of an attractor show tangle within each slice.
What Tangle Means




Tangle within a Poincaré section implies variations on a theme.
Variations on a Theme




 Three variations on a theme in red.
Variations on a Theme




                       Silhouette




Three variations on the theme of body-sculpted silhouette.
Fugue in Fashion Design




Like J.S. Bach experimenting with fugues in classical music,
Donna Karan likes to experiment with variations on a theme in
fashion design.
Conclusion




“Art is a collaboration between God and the artist, and the less the
artist does the better.”
                                                  -- André Gide
References



Ingrid Sischy, The Journey of a Woman: 20 Years of Donna Karan,
Assouline, 2004

Christian de Duve, Singularities: Landmarks on the Pathways of
Life, Cambridge University Press, 2005

Christian de Duve, A Guided Tour of the Living Cell, Scientific
American Books, 1984
References

Ralph Abraham and Christopher Shaw, Dynamics: The Geometry
of Behavior, Addison-Wesley, 1992

Ivar Ekeland, Mathematics and the Unexpected, The University of
Chicago Press, 1988

James Gleick, Chaos: Making a New Science, Viking, 1987

Ilya Prigogine and Isabelle Stengers, Order Out of Chaos,
Shambala, 1984

Julien Sprott, Strange Attractors: Creating Patterns in Chaos, M&T
Books, 1993
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Order Out of Chaos - The Designs of Donna Karan

  • 1. Order Out of Chaos The Designs of Donna Karan by Vietanh Nguyen
  • 2. Contents Introduction The Signature Pieces The Creative Process The Creative Process as a Dynamical System Conclusion References
  • 3. Introduction “I live in a constant state of chaos; it’s what drives me to create.” -- Donna Karan
  • 4. Introduction “Because Donna Karan brings some Zen into the lives of crazed working women.” -- Vanity Fair on citing Donna Karan as a Fashion Week Designer
  • 11. The Creative Process as Seen by Karan “Each season I start where I began – with the body.” “How the clothes relate to the body, how they move and feel, is what’s important to me.”
  • 12. The Creative Process as Seen by Karan “I don’t see just one woman when I design. It’s always a universe of women. Strong, passionate women, women who are true to themselves and their visions. I see clothes as a canvas to their individuality. The woman should always be the first thing you see, not her clothes.”
  • 13. The Creative Process as Seen by Karan “… I have found that the intersection of East and West is a realm of endless creativity, a place of emotional and aesthetic energy I return to again and again, each time finding something new to explore.”
  • 14. The Creative Process as Seen by Karan “I inhale all the beautiful inspiration I can, and then exhale it into a collection.” -- Donna Karan
  • 15. The Creative Process as a Dynamical System The creative process can be modeled as a dynamic open system operating in the chaos of an energy flow and going through a phase transition. At the phase transition, the energy flux through the system becomes organized by what is called a strange attractor into emerging new ordered patterns.
  • 16. In Dialogue with the Universe First there is an open system operating in an energy or information flux - there is an exchange of entropy between the outside and the inside.
  • 17. As a Bioenergetics Process The resulting coupling is similar to that of a bioenergetics process, where the “foodstuffs” represent the inspiration and the assembled “ATP” acts as an intermediary between the provision and the use of inspiration.
  • 18. A Cascade of Catalytic Steps Upon encountering with “hormones”, the “ATP” may start off a cascade of catalytic steps.
  • 19. Phase Transition The cascade may lead to instabilities through repeated self- amplifying feedback. At such a point of instability, or a bifurcation point, the system goes through a phase transition. At the phase transition, ordered patterns may emerge spontaneously through a strange attractor.
  • 20. Strange Attractor “The form which embodies that which appeared in consciousness – that is to be held within consciousness.” -- Upanishads
  • 21. Strange Attractor What kind of orbit could be drawn in a bounded space so that it would never repeat itself and never cross itself? The energy flow that produced chaos begins to become organized by the strange attractor into emerging new patterns.
  • 22. Strange Attractor “Curving back upon my own nature, I create again and again.” -- Bhagavad-Gita
  • 23. Poincaré Returns Exposing an Attractor’s Structure To see the structure within, a slice can be taken through an attractor, a so-called Poincaré section or Poincaré return map. The map reduces a three- dimensional flow to two dimensions without loss of meaningful information.
  • 24. Tangle within a Poincaré Section Slices of an attractor show tangle within each slice.
  • 25. What Tangle Means Tangle within a Poincaré section implies variations on a theme.
  • 26. Variations on a Theme Three variations on a theme in red.
  • 27. Variations on a Theme Silhouette Three variations on the theme of body-sculpted silhouette.
  • 28. Fugue in Fashion Design Like J.S. Bach experimenting with fugues in classical music, Donna Karan likes to experiment with variations on a theme in fashion design.
  • 29. Conclusion “Art is a collaboration between God and the artist, and the less the artist does the better.” -- André Gide
  • 30. References Ingrid Sischy, The Journey of a Woman: 20 Years of Donna Karan, Assouline, 2004 Christian de Duve, Singularities: Landmarks on the Pathways of Life, Cambridge University Press, 2005 Christian de Duve, A Guided Tour of the Living Cell, Scientific American Books, 1984
  • 31. References Ralph Abraham and Christopher Shaw, Dynamics: The Geometry of Behavior, Addison-Wesley, 1992 Ivar Ekeland, Mathematics and the Unexpected, The University of Chicago Press, 1988 James Gleick, Chaos: Making a New Science, Viking, 1987 Ilya Prigogine and Isabelle Stengers, Order Out of Chaos, Shambala, 1984 Julien Sprott, Strange Attractors: Creating Patterns in Chaos, M&T Books, 1993