The document discusses cutting in the garments industry. It covers the cutting process, requirements for accurate cutting, different cutting methods including manual and computerized, and various cutting machines used such as straight knife cutters, round knife cutters, and band knife cutters. It also discusses quality control processes for the cutting section to ensure accurate cutting of garment pieces.
Cutting section:
Cutting departmentis one of the most essential sections for garments manufacturing in
the apparel industry. The fabric cutting is started after completing the fabric spreading.
In cutting section, fabrics are cut according to the pattern. Perfect fabric cutting
depends on the method of cutting and marker planning. For making quality garments
they have to follow a working procedure of cutting department to continue their work.
5.
Process sequence ofcutting:
Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay
↓
Fabric Cutting
↓
Numbering
↓
100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed.
↓
Shorting & Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling
6.
Requirements/ Prerequisites of
fabriccutting
To cut the pieces of garments from fabric lay accurately, following
requirements should be fulfilled. Requirements are as following:
Requirements
Precision
of cut
Clean
edge
Unfused
edge
Consistent
cutting
Support of
the lay
7.
Methods of FabricCutting
Methods of Fabric Cutting:
In garments industry, there are two available cutting methods,
these are-
1.Manual Method,
2.Computerized Method.
8.
Those are discussedin the below:
1. Manual Fabric Cutting Method:
Here cutting process is done by using knife, scissor, drill etc. Knife
is placed in the head of the cutting machine. Manual method is the
most used cutting method in garments industry.
Manual cutting method can be done by using the following
equipments:
•Round knife,
•Band Knife,
•Straight Knife,
•Scissor,
•Die-cutting,
•Drill.
9.
Advantage of ManualCutting Method:
1.Easy process of cutting.
2.Educated man power is not required.
3.Low cost knife is enough here to cut the fabric.
4.Low maintenance cost.
Disadvantage of Manual Cutting Method:
1.Slow process.
2.Not suitable for large scale production.
3.Cutting speed cannot be controlled.
4.Intensity of accident is very high.
5.Higher labor cost than computerized cutting method.
10.
2. Computerized FabricCutting Method:
In modern garments manufacturing industry, computerized cutting
method becomes so much popular in day by day due its higher
production and less time consuming efficiency. Here all programmes
are loaded into the computer and the computer performs all the
activities which are loaded.
Computerized Cutting method can be done by using following
equipments:
•Straight knife cutting,
•Water jet cutting,
•Laser beam cutting,
•Plasma torch cutting.
11.
Advantage of ComputerizedCutting Method:
1.Very much effective cutting by computer controlled system.
2.Suitable for large scale production.
3.Cutting speed can be controlled.
4.Intensity of accident is very low.
5.No need any marker.
6.Low labor cost.
Disadvantage of Computerized Cutting Method:
1.Higher maintenance cost.
2.Skilled and educated manpower is required.
3.So much expensive machine.
4.If correct disc is not loaded in the computer, then error will be indicated.
Hand Scissors:
Scissor isa cutting implement consisting of two blades joined by a swivel
pin that allows the cutting edges to be opened and closed. Hand scissor
is hand operated. Hand Scissors are used for cutting various thin
materials, such as paper, cardboard, metal foil, thin plastic, cloth, rope,
and wire. Scissors can also be used to cut hair and food.
14.
Round Knife CuttingMachine:
This machine is called round knife cutting machine because its cutter is
round but slightly octagonal in shape. This machine is small in size,
flexible & used for small production. It is also a popular cutting machine.
15.
Features of RoundKnife Cutting Machine:
It contains a round but slightly octagonal type knife with sharp edge.
1.The other main parts of this machine are base plate, electric motor, handle & knife
guard.
2.Knife diameter varies from 6-20 cm.
3.Manual grinder is used.
4.Motor r.p.m. is 800-1600.It depends on machine.
5.A handle for the cutter to direct the knife.
6.Easy to handle & movement due to low weight.
16.
Straight Knife Cutting
Machine:
Itis the most useful cutting
instrument in apparel cutting. In
apparel industry, more than 99%
cases this knife is used. This
machine is called straight knife
cutting machine because its
cutter is straight in shape. It is
used for both woven & knit
fabric. In this machine different
types of straight knife are used
according to the different
cutting objects. This machine
provides good efficiency.
17.
1. Knife
2. Sharpener
3.Motor
4. Fabric presser
5. Base plate
6. Moving handle
7. Transport handle
Parts of Straight Knife Cutting Machine
Features of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:
The main parts of this machine are straight knife, electric motor, handle, grinder, base
plate, stand/ knife holder, lubricating unit, wheel etc.
1.Could be used to cut higher depth of fabric.
2.Knife height is 10 cm to 33 cm.
3.Knife stroke is 2.5 cm to 4.5 cm.
4.Motor r.p.m. is 3000 to 4000.
5.Auto grinder is used.
6.Auto lubricating unit works for this machine.
19.
Band Knife CuttingMachine:
Band knife cutting machine is an
endless and looks like a loop. It is used
for the cutting of fabric rolls without
cardboard-inner tube. It is important
instrument of cutting fabrics. This
cutting machine works automatically
according to the height of the relevant
material. This machine is with special
blower decreases resistance between
fabrics and table, which enables the
fabrics be moved easily and be cut
precisely.
20.
Features of BandKnife Cutting Machine:
1.It comprises a series of three or more pulleys,which provide the continuous
rotating motion of the knife .
2.An endless knife is used here.
3.Knife is usually narrower than on a straight knife.
4.High speed r.p.m. motor is used.
5.Required a large space for it.
6.This is like a saw mill cutter.
7.Knife life time depends on fabric type & uses of machine.
21.
Water jet Cutting
Machine:
Awater jet cutter is an industrial
tool capable of cutting a wide
variety of materials using a very
high-pressure jet of water or a
mixture of water. The cutter is
commonly connected to a high-
pressure water pump where the
water is then ejected from the
nozzle, cutting through the
material by spraying it with the
jet of high-speed water. The
features of water jet cutting
machine is given below:
22.
Computer Controlled
Straight KnifeCutting
Machine
In this machine, cutting knife
movement is controlled by a
computer. Cutting table used for
computer controlled straight
knife cutting machine is different
from normal cutting table. The
table top is covered with a bed of
nylon bristle. The nylon bristle
bed is capable to support the
fabric lay and also allows the
straight knife to pass through and
move around the nylon bristle.
23.
Notcher Cutting Machine:
Manygarments parts require
notches in the edges of them to
enable easy alignment during
sewing with other garments
parts. This notcher can be made
by straight knife or other cutting
machine but accuracy depends
on the operator.
24.
Quality Control ofGarments Cutting Section
Quality control of garments cutting section plays a vital role in garments
because right measured cutting is required to get the right shape of garments
product. Cutting is the first working department of garments
production. Before making a cloth you have to cut off individual parts as per
approved pattern, whereas proper measurement must be ensured so that all
cutting parts are 100% accurate.
25.
Parts of QualityControl Cutting Section
Quality control of cutting section mainly divided
into four parts. Those are:
1.Marker Inspection
2.Spreading Control
3.Cutting Quality control
4.Piece Goods Inspection