Rajput & MUghal Costumes
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During the 7th and 8th centuries, the Rajput clan emerged as warriors in Rajasthan and central India. They established kingdoms in the 6th century but fought amongst themselves. Prithvi Raj Chauhan resisted Islamic invaders. Rajput costumes had influences from the Gupta period, including the choli, ghaghra skirt, and odhani shawl. In the 12th-13th centuries, the Delhi Sultanate was established in former Rajput areas. Under the Mughals, traditional Indian and foreign cultural influences blended, seen in clothing like the jama tunic and pyjama trousers. Nizams of Hyderabad adopted Mughal styles after declaring independence in the early 17
Rajput & MUghal Costumes
- 1. Rajputs Era During the 7th and 8th century a new clan of people emerged who came to be known as Rajputs. They belonged to the warrior class of people and were located in Rajasthan and some central parts of India. The Rajputs were an image of feudalism and chivalry. Though they were devoted warriors, the Rajputs fought amongst themselves and weakened their Empire. The first recorded Rajput kingdoms emerged in Rajasthan in the 6th century and small dynasties later ruled much of northern India. One Rajput of the Chauhan clan, Prithvi Raj Chauhan, was known for bloody conflicts against the advancing Islamic Sultanates. Rajput Women’s Costume Costumes from the Rajput Era had very strong influence from the Classical Age (Gupta Period). Choli – upper garment heavily embroidered in the front and tied with strings at the back. Also called Angia, Chola, Cholaka & Kanchuki. Cholaka – fitted Choli-type blouse with an apron front, long sleeves of dark red brocade with white middle tied at the back with strings. Antariya – Lehnga style, of silk with purple, green and yellow stripes with lozenge patterns in white. Ghaghra – An enoromous gathered skirt tied at the waist with drawstrings. Odhani – a light-weight richly embroidered shawl’
- 2. Ghaghra – It is usually worn with a tight fititng bodice (Choli). The length of the Ghaghra varied and sometimes accompanied a Churidar Pyjama. The drawstring at waist or Izarband was left to fall at the sides and was finished with decorative tassels, cowrie shells, Jhumkas or Minakari jewelry’ Rajput Men’s Costume Chugha – calf length tunic style with a wide richly embroidered border down the center-front opening, hem and edge of long sleeves (probably ruched). Chalana – baggy trousers. Mauli or Ushnisa – turban. Mughals Era In the 12th and 13th centuries, Turkic and Pashtun invaded parts of northern India and established the Delhi Sultanate in the beginning of the 13th century in the former Rajput areas. During the 14th century the Hindu Vijayanagar dynasty came into conflict with the Islamic rule, and the clashing of the two systems, caused the mingling of the indigenous and foreign culture that left a lasting cultural influences on each other. The Vijayanagar dynasty eventually declined due to the pressure from the first Delhi Sultanates who had managed to establish themselves in the north, centred on the city of Delhi by that time Mughal Men's Costume Dhoti – Antariya Nima – a short tunic made of fine material. Also called Nimatana or Nimcha. Jama – a lined garment, knee length, fitted at the chest and flares below the waist, worn as an outer garment. Chakdar Jama – a variation of the Jama, with a ‘U’ shaped placket with a loop button at the waist, a ceremonial outer garment made of brocade material often worn over an angarakha or kurta. Abho – loose kurta like garment worn as cloak. Angarakha – a Jama variation. Yaktahi Jama – Jama without lining. Patka – girdle or kamarbandh, with very decorative patterns woven or embroidered on its panels, worn usually over a Jama by men. Sadri – a sleeveless jacket, waist length, worn over a kurta. Bagalbandi – sleeveless waist-length jacket with rich brocade and embroidery. Nadri – sleeveless thigh length coat worn over Qaba. Qaba – outer vest, fastened at the neck and the rest was left open.
- 3. Pyjama (izar) – means leg clothing, loose pair of drawers tied at waist. Postin – coat lined with sheep skin Chaftan – long coat Tahbnand – belt/ girdle Chaugoshia – four cornered cap. Akbar’s influence on Mughal Costume Akbar also introduced new names for certain costume articles. Jama – Sarbgati (covering the entire body) Ijar/ Pyjama – Yar-pirahan (companion of the coat) Nimtana – Tanzeb (jacket) Burqa – Chitragupita (veil) Kulah – Sir-shobha (cap) Muybaf – Keshghan (hair ribbon) Shal – Parmnarm (shawl) Patka – Katzeb Pay-afzar – Charandharan (shoes) Mughal Women's Costume Peshwaz – an ankle length dress of colored muslin richly embroidered, its upper portion is similar to the Jama and the lower part is a flared skirt with flounces of gold lace. Choli – upper garment from the Gupta period, also called angia, chola, cholaka, kanchuki. The front is heavily embroidered and the back is tied with strings. Ghaghra – an enormous gathered skirt tied at the waist with drawstrings, also called ijarband. Mughal Costume in Films Mughal-e-Azam Salim and Anarkali are wearing a Sadri over a Jama.
- 4. Jodha Akhbar Akbar is wearing Jama and Churidar underneath a heavily ornamented Chogha. The waist is tied with an embroidered Patka. He is also wearing a Mauli and Lambanum. Jodha is wearing Choli, Muktavali (pearl necklace), Keyura (upper arm ornament), Valaya (bracelets of pearls), Anguliya (rings), Ratnanguliya (rings with studded ornaments), Ghagra and Odhani NIZAMS OF HYDERABAD NIZAM a shortened version of Nizam- ul- Mulk , meaning Administrator of the Realm, was the title of the native sovereigns of Hyderabad state, India, since 1719, belonging to the Asaf Jah dynasty. The dynasty was founded by Mir Qamar-ud-Din Siddiqi, a viceroy of the Deccan under the Mughal emperors from 1713 to 1721 and who intermittently ruled under the title Asaf Jah in 1724, and After Aurangzeb’s death in 1707, the Mogul empire cumbled and the viceroy in Hyderabad, the young Asaf Jah, declared himself independent. Nizam Women’s Costumes The traditional Muslim attire for women was the CHAUGOSHIA-which had four segments Kurti: Long Shirt Choli: Blouse Pyjamas: Tight drainpipe trousers Khada Dupatta: Length of fabric of about five meters worn draped around the body.
- 5. Hyderabadi Royal women shown wearing the traditional chaugasia in Brocade fabric and also adorned with the traditional jewellery. Nizams Jewellery SARPECH MURASSA-Gold turban ornament with rubies and emeralds. TURRA-I-ZAMARRUD -Gold Turban ornament set with emeralds, diamonds and rubies.