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sewing Thread

This document discusses different types of sewing threads, including their compositions and applications. Natural fibres like cotton are discussed as well as synthetic fibres like polyester. Specific thread types covered include spun polyester, corespun threads, and textured threads. The benefits of corespun threads for strength and sewability are highlighted. Various yarn counting systems and their applications are also summarized.

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SEWING THREAD
Fibre Classification Natural Manmade Vegetable Animal Mineral Regenerated Synthetics cotton wool asbestos rayon Inorganic Organic glass polypropylene polyvinyl polyamide polyester
Natural Fibres - Cotton Advantages ƒ Works great for overdyeing ƒ Can withstand heat Disadvantages ƒ Low tenacity ƒ If you need strength, you must increase the thread thickness ƒ Does not sew well on high speed sewing machines ƒ Price Application ƒ Garment Overdyeing ƒ Feminine Products ƒ Tea Bag String
Synthetic Fibres - Spun Polyester Man-made fibre manufactured to replicate the feel of 100% cotton. Advantages ƒ low shrinkage ideal for polyester blends ƒ resistant to sunlight and chemicals ƒ economical alternative for lightweight fabrics Applications ƒ Blouses, skirts and casual shirts ƒ T- shirts with interlock weave ƒ Children's apparels ƒ Sleepwear and Medium-range fleece ƒ Non-lustre logo embroidery
Synthetic Fibres - Corespun Corespun threads combine the physical properties of a synthetic polyester filament (strength, elongation, low shrinkage) with the aesthetic properties of a staple cotton or polyester wrap (softness, appearance, heat protection). Corespun threads have the potential to increase machine productivity by up to 20% over staple spun polyester. Advantages ƒ High seam strength ƒ High speed multi-directional sewing ƒ Helps to contain and eliminate many puckering problems Applications ƒ All Apparel (Lingerie to jeans) ƒ Furniture ƒ Home Furnishings
Core threads are made by wrapping a staple polyester or cotton wrapper around a continuous filament bundle of polyester fibers during spin-ning, and then plying these yarns into a sewing thread. Core threads for the toughest sewing applications from sewing fine blouses that are susceptible to seam puckering ... to denim products that will be stone-washed or sand blasted. Brands: D-Core - cotton wrapped polyester core Perma Core - polyester wrapped polyester core Wrapper 40% Core 60%
Benefits: • 40 to 50% stronger than spun polyester threads the same size • Superior Sewability on both manual and automatic machines with minimum interruptions - fewer restitched seams • Allows the use of smaller diameter threads to minimize Seam Puckering or Needle cutting • Reduced Open-Seams and Seam Failures • Higher initial price compared to spun polyester
Singles Yarn 2 Ply Wrapper 40% Core 60% CORE SPUN Un-twist the thread and separate out a singles yarn. Un-twist the singles yarn. If the thread falls apart, it is a Spun thread construction. If the thread will not fall apart but maintains its strength, then it is a Corespun thread construction.
Continuous filament – Textured Texturing is the process where continuous filament fibres are entangled by various mechanical methods which impart softness and bulk. Market Terminology ƒ Fluff thread ƒ Bulky thread ƒ Wooly thread Applications ƒ Active wear ƒ Lingerie, tee shirts, underwear ƒ Fleece wear ƒ Over lock and Coverseams
Thread Substrates Poly/Cot Core spun D Core Poly/Poly Core spun Perma Core Staple spun polyester Perma Spun C.F. Poly TerylB C.F. Poly – Trilobal Stylo C.F. Poly – Textured Wildcat C.F. Poly – Microfilament Textured Permasoft Cotton - mercerized Anecot
Applications by Substrate  Corespun ƒ Cotton wrapped polyester core used for sewing jeans, chinos, etc. ƒ Polyester wrapped polyester core used for sewing everything from intimate apparel to jeans.  Spun Polyester made from 100% polyester staple fibres also used for most apparel applications.  Textured Polyester used primarily for overedge and coverstitch operations.  Air Entangled Polyester is made from 100% continuous polyester filaments that have been entangled using high pressure air. Generally not a plied construction.Used in some jeans serging operations.  Continuous Filament Nylon or Polyester used for sewing leather goods, footwear,upholstered furniture, sporting goods, luggage, etc.
There is NOT One Perfect Thread for All Seaming Operations … There is NOT One Perfect Thread for All Seaming Operations … However There Is A Perfect Thread for A Specific Sewing Application! However There Is A Perfect Thread for A Specific Sewing Application! “For every sewing requirement!”
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Yarn Count Systems Fixed weight Fixed length Number English Number metric Denier Tex Decitex Higher the number the finer the thread. Higher the number the coarser the thread. Cotton counts: Ne 60/2 Ne 50/2 Ne 40/2 Ne 20/4 Metric counts: Nm 80/2 Nm 20/3 Denier: 120d/2 150d 200d 300d Tex: 18 24 40 105 270 D’tex: 50 70 100 400 Cotton Count - number of 840 hanks in 1 pound Metric - number of hanks in 1,000 metres/kilograms Denier - grams per 9,000 metres Tex - grams per 1,000 metres Decitex (D;tex) - grams per 10,000 metres
Two plied thread where 20 is the count of single yarn & /2 stands for number of ply. 20 X 840 yds = 16800 yds/lb The yarns become finer as the count number increases
Metric Sizes 50 75 120 140 180 Yarn Sizes 30/3 40/3 40/2 50/2 60/2 Tex Sizes T- 60 T- 45 T- 30 T- 21 T- 18 1000 meters of Gram Weight greige yarn HK Sizes 604 403 402 502 602
Cotton to Tex 590.5 ÷ cotton count Tex to cotton 590.5 ÷ tex Cotton to metric Cotton count × 1.69 Metric to cotton Metric count × 0.59 Cotton to denier 5315 ÷ cotton count
Stitch Class Description Consumption % of needle thread % of under thread (incl. cover) 301 Lockstitch 3.0 50 50 101 Chainstitch 4.5 100 . 401 2 thread chain stitch 6.0 25 75 304 Zigzag stitch 7.0 50 50 503 2 thread overedge stitch 12.0 55 45 504 3 thread overedge stitch 14.0 20 80 512 4 thread safety stitch 18.0 25 75 516 5 thread safety stitch 20.0 20 80 406 3 thread cover ing stitch 18.0 30 70 602 4 thread cover ing stitch 25.0 20 80 605 5 thread cover ing stitch 28.0 30 70
General guidelines for thread selection Sewing Thread Sizes Weight of Materials Tex 18, 24 Tex 30, 40 (Ounces per Sq Yard) Garment Examples 2 - 4 Tee Shirts, Lingerie Tex 24, 27, 30 4 - 6 Shirts, Dresses 6 - 8 Light Weight Bottoms Tex 40, 60 8 - 12 Light Weight Denim Tex 60, 80, 105 12 - 15 Heavy Weight Denim
Quality Fabric Quality Trim Quality Vendors Quality Garment Construction Methods
EXCESSIVE RESTITCHED SEAMS - EXCESSIVE RESTITCHED SEAMS - • Sewn products with excessive restitched seams on topstitching are NOT first quality merchandise! • Restitched seams come from sewing interruptions on the production floor caused by thread breaks or skipped stitches. AE High Performance Threads … Will • Sewn products with excessive restitched seams on topstitching are NOT first quality merchandise! • Restitched seams come from sewing interruptions on the production floor caused by thread breaks or skipped stitches. AE High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! Make the Difference!
Automatic Pocket Set (Excessive Restitched Seams due Automatic Pocket Set (Excessive Restitched Seams due to Thread Breaks) to Thread Breaks)
EXCESSIVE RESTITCHED SEAMS on Accessories EXCESSIVE RESTITCHED SEAMS on Accessories
EXCESSIVE BROKEN STITCHES - EXCESSIVE BROKEN STITCHES - • Many sourcing companies or manufacturers spend anywhere from $.50 to $3.00 US per garment to give them a distressed appearance or a soft feel after laundering. • Many sourcing companies or manufacturers spend anywhere from $.50 to $3.00 US per garment to give them a distressed appearance or a soft feel after laundering. Choosing the Right Thread … Choosing the Right Thread … Can Make a Difference! Can Make a Difference!
EXCESSIVE SKIPPED STITCHES EXCESSIVE SKIPPED STITCHES • Here are examples of garments pulled of the shelf, or return from the consumer, with skipped stitches. Skipping can be the result of Poor Loop Formation. • Here are examples of garments pulled of the shelf, or return from the consumer, with skipped stitches. Skipping can be the result of Poor Loop Formation. AE High Performance Threads … AE High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! Will Make the Difference!
EXCESSIVE SKIPPED STITCHES ON KNITS EXCESSIVE SKIPPED STITCHES ON KNITS AE High Performance Threads … AE High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! Will Make the Difference!
EXCESSIVE NEEDLE CUTTING ON KNITS EXCESSIVE NEEDLE CUTTING ON KNITS • A very common problem on knits is having excessive needle holes along the stitch line.We call this Needle Cutting. • Using very small needles with a ball point will definitely minimize needle cutting, but …. smaller needles require smaller thread sizes. Using a low tenacity weak thread can result in excessive Open Seams. • A very common problem on knits is having excessive needle holes along the stitch line.We call this Needle Cutting. • Using very small needles with a ball point will definitely minimize needle cutting, but …. smaller needles require smaller thread sizes. Using a low tenacity weak thread can result in excessive Open Seams. AE High Performance Threads … AE High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! Will Make the Difference!
EXCESSIVE SEAM PUCKERING EXCESSIVE SEAM PUCKERING • A common problem on many woven products is excessive SEAM PUCKERING … where the seam does not lay flat and look right. You can sometime remove the puckering temporarily with a hot iron. However, in most cases the puckering usually comes back! • A common problem on many woven products is excessive SEAM PUCKERING … where the seam does not lay flat and look right. You can sometime remove the puckering temporarily with a hot iron. However, in most cases the puckering usually comes back! AE High Performance Threads … AE High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! Will Make the Difference!
Spun Polyester T-40 3.3 lbs Poly-wrapped Polyester Core T-40 4.5 lbs Using a higher tenacity thread can help: • Reduce thread breakage and restitched seams • Reduce seam failures • Allow the use of a smaller diameter thread
Perma Core Spun Poly T-30 (120) They may look the They may look the same i ns tahem seea min. the seam. PERMA CORE SPUN POLY They may look the same on the cone. Tex Size: Strength: Avg. single-end break (lbs.) T-30 (120) 3.8 2.2 Same 72% Diff Seam Strength: 301 Lockstitch @ 8 spi (lbs.) 44 32 38% Diff
Best Quality Poor Quality - Excessive Seam Pucker
Seam Performance High Elongation Good Elastic Recovery Sewability Low Elongation or High Initial Modulus Elongation can also have a tremendous impact on Sewability Seam Performance
Properties of good thread  Required strength  Low shrinkage  Optimum elongation  Proper lubrication  Balanced twist level  High resistance to abrasion
TThhrreeaadd BBuurrnn OOuutt Why thread burns ? Needle temperature - 360ºc (max) Melting point of polyester - 200ºc to 250ºc Check lists Correct size of sewing thread Needle selection Machine threading Sewing tension
When a thread break occurs The operator repairs the break BUT, she/he may also: Walk away from the machine for a break • Take time out to complain about the breakages • Take time trying a different cone of thread • Take time trying to resolve the thread breakage's by trying a new needle • Waste time playing with the thread tensions All of these things cost production time and increase of operator frustration and fatigue frustrated operators + increased fatigue + reduced morale = lower quality garments and lower production levels
Time lost due to thread breaks 50 lockstitch machines 2 thread breaks per hour Minimum 30 secs to re-thread re-sew after each break Therefore in 8 hours day, 8 minutes lost per m/c. How many individual pieces can be STITCHED in 8 minutes? 6 hours 40 minutes time lost per day with only 50 lockstitch machine
LLuubbrriiccaattiioonn  Prevents thread burn out  Cools the needle during sewing  Reduces wear tear of machine parts  Increases seam strength Produce a regular low amount of friction. Protect the thread from frictional needle heat damage. Allow even off-winding in the supply package. Be non-staining.
Twist direction Twist is defined as the number of turns inserted per meter (TPM) of yarn or thread produced. If the twist is too low, the yarns may fray and break. If too high, it can cause snarling or looping resulting in thread breakage. S twist is also known as anti-clockwise or Right twist Z twist is also known as clockwise or Left twist
Seam Engineering A garment is made up using a series of different seams. Therefore, a thread should be chosen for specific seams to ensure maximum benefits.  Seam appearance ƒ Is the seam attractive, consistent, and neat?  Seam strength ƒ Have the correct seam type and thread selections been made for the item being sewn?  Seam stretch ƒ Does the seam allow stretch especially in high elongation fabrics viz : knits, lycra blends  Seam durability ƒ Do the properties of the seam, thread, and fabric lend themselve to the desired length of use for the item sewn?
Seams  A seam consists of a series of stitches or stitch types used to join two or more plies of material together.  A seam is loadbearing and should be similar in physical properties to the material being sewn.
Seam Strength  Seam Type ƒ A lap felled seam is the strongest of all seam types because the fabric is lapped upon itself and shares the stress load along with the thread. However, the lap felled seam makes a bulky seam. ƒ A butt seam is designed to maintain a flat profile, but in this type seam the thread bears the entire load of stress in the seam.  Stitch Type ƒ The lockstitch is the most common stitch used, but the most easily damaged. ƒ Chain and overedge stitches offer more extensibility, which leads to more resistance to stress.  Stitch Density ƒ Seam strength is usually proportional to stitch density. ƒ Increasing stitches per inch gives a stronger seam up to a point. Sometimes it is more economical to use a stronger thread.
Seam Strength Critical factors :  Thread strength  Stitch type  Stitch rating  Seam type  Fabric type  Needle size point Seam strength = SPI X STS X 1.5 - lockstitch SPI X STS X 1.7 - chainstitch e.g. for a seam with a density of 16 spi a thread with a 1100 gms STS seam strength for lockstitch = 16 X 1100 X 1.5 = 26,400 gms. = 26. 4 kgs seam strength for chainstitch = 16 X 1100 X 1.7 = 29,920 gms. = 29. 9 kgs The seam is sewn at right angles to the direction of load.
Seam Stretch Several factors influence seam stretch:  Stitch type (lockstitch, chainstitch, or zig zag of either for a bra strap)  Stitches per inch  Thread type (elongation characteristics)  Fabric type (stretchability) Seam stretch is expressed as a % .
Seam Durability Defined as the ability of a seam to withstand abrasion during :  during the sewing process  at the time of washing  day to day wear tear of a garment Durability factor for various substrates :  Rayon : 1  Cotton : 3  SSP : 12  Core spun : 30  CF Nylon : 150
Factors of seam durability • Thread finish • Thread abrasion resistance • Stitch type • Stitch balance tightness • Seam type • Fabric properties
Seam security The security of a seam depends chiefly upon the stitch type and its susceptibility to become unraveled. The stitch must be well set to the material to prevent snagging that can cause rupture of the thread and unravelling of certain stitch types. Several factors influence seam security:  Stitch type (it must not be universal)  Stitches per inch  Thread type (must not be too lively)  Seam type (what stresses?)  Fabric type (what stresses?)
Seam appearance The appearance of a seam is generally governed by the proper relatonship of the following:  Thread - size and type (decorative, etc.)  Stitches per inch - top stitching?  Seam type  Fabric texture and weight
 Tension pucker  Feed pucker  Shrinkage pucker  Inherent pucker  Fabric flagging
Tension Pucker  Caused by high thread tension during sewing.  More pronounced when synthetic threads are used.  These threads on account of high stretch properties elongate more during sewing.  After sewing the threads recover from the stretched state pulling the fabric with it. Remedy: Thread tensions have to be kept as low as possible.
Feed Pucker  Encountered when sewing very fine fabrics.  The plies of fabric tend to slip over each other resulting in uneven feed leading to pucker. Remedy :  Opting for advanced types of feed systems like compound or unison feed.  Puller feed is more cost effective.
Shrinkage Pucker Wash pucker - during the wash process the thread in the seam shrinks, pulling the fabric with it. More so when using cotton threads. Ironing pucker - normally happens when synthetic threads are used. The heat destabilizes the molecular structure of the thread causing it to contract. Remedy Choosing threads with low shrinkage properties.
Inherent Pucker  Normally seen when sewing densely woven materials.  This occurs because the needle forcibly displaces the warp weft ends of the dense weave to a significant extent.  These displaced ends are pushed upwards to the surface of the fabric and appear as pucker.  This is also know as 'STRUCTURAL JAMMING' Remedy  Opting for finer needles threads  Opt for a chain stitch in place of a lock stitch  Reduce stitch density  Biased stitching
Fabric Flagging  A machine related issue  the throat plate aperture enlarges due to wear tear  while sewing the needle pushes the fabric through the aperture before penetrating the fabric  this can also happen when the needle size (thickness) is changed and if the throat plate is not changed accordingly. Remedy  throat plates must be changed at regular intervals after checking for wear tear  throat plates must be changed in accordance with the needle size even if there are no signs of wear tear. Needle Size - 8/60 9/65 10/70 12/80 14/90 16100 Throat plate - Nm 100 120 120 140 160 160 aperture size
Increased Inspection Rejections of work Excessive Repairs Missed Shipping Dates Lost Sales I paid $$$ for this Brand-name I paid $$$ for this Brand-name Shirt and after three Shirt and after three launderings, the seams are launderings, the seams are falling apart! falling apart! CONSUMER
What’s really on the line is your reputation
Using any thread regardless of the impact it has on your final quality. Not buying from a thread company that can provide full-service support when you need it. Potential loss of credibility with your customers by having excessive quality issues.
Unquality Costs that you should consider: More thread breaks and restitched seams Higher overhead costs - more machines required Longer In-process times - penalties due to Shipment Delays Charge-backs from Retailer Potential Claims due to needle fragments More thread breaks and restitched seams Higher overhead costs - more machines required Longer In-process times - penalties due to Shipment Delays Charge-backs from Retailer Potential Claims due to needle fragments
Ideal Low Garment Mtrs./Garment Thread Combo Priced Spun Difference Blouse 111 $.05 $.03 $.02 Bra 57 $.02 $.01 $.01 Dress 128 $.04 $.02 $.02 Dress Shirt – LS 120 $.07 $.03 $.04 Jean 228 $.20 $.15 $.05 Knit Brief 62 $.02 $.01 $.01 Knit Polo Shirt 153 $.05 $.03 $.02 Knit Tee Shirt 57 $.02 $.01 $.01 Panty 56 $.02 $.01 $.01 Suit Coat 160 $.05 $.03 $.02 Sweat Shirt 255 $.09 $.05 $.04 Woven Slack 173 $.10 $.06 $.04 Work Pants 217 $.17 $.07 $.10 * Thread Price Information in U.S. $ for comparative purposes only. For actual thread prices, contact your AE Sales Representative
Thread only makes up a small percent of the COST of the garment .... but shares 50% of the responsibility for the seam!
Lets say, A E thread costs $0.75/cone of 2500 mtrs. (60/3) Lets assume 100 m thread is required to make one shirt Cost/ Shirt: $0.03 Cheaper thread costs $0.60/cone of 2500mts (60/3) Cost per shirt: $0.024 Notional saving by using cheaper thread? 0.03 - 0.024 = $0.006/shirt So, if you stitch 1000 shirts/day in your factory, that is $6.00 SAVED per day or is it? NO, you do not save by using cheaper thread.
• Thread breakage -low lube, strength, low tenacity • Skipped stitches - inconsistent lube, unbalanced twist • Needle breakage - knots • Rejects - stitching faults, seam faults • Lost production Costs at sewing increase when inferior quality threads are used.
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Most companies have experienced that using QUALITY THREADS with Minimum Yarn Imperfections and Consistent Physical Characteristics … ... Will Make A Difference in producing quality product !
sewing Thread

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sewing Thread

  • 1.
  • 2.
    Fibre Classification NaturalManmade Vegetable Animal Mineral Regenerated Synthetics cotton wool asbestos rayon Inorganic Organic glass polypropylene polyvinyl polyamide polyester
  • 3.
    Natural Fibres -Cotton Advantages ƒ Works great for overdyeing ƒ Can withstand heat Disadvantages ƒ Low tenacity ƒ If you need strength, you must increase the thread thickness ƒ Does not sew well on high speed sewing machines ƒ Price Application ƒ Garment Overdyeing ƒ Feminine Products ƒ Tea Bag String
  • 4.
    Synthetic Fibres -Spun Polyester Man-made fibre manufactured to replicate the feel of 100% cotton. Advantages ƒ low shrinkage ideal for polyester blends ƒ resistant to sunlight and chemicals ƒ economical alternative for lightweight fabrics Applications ƒ Blouses, skirts and casual shirts ƒ T- shirts with interlock weave ƒ Children's apparels ƒ Sleepwear and Medium-range fleece ƒ Non-lustre logo embroidery
  • 5.
    Synthetic Fibres -Corespun Corespun threads combine the physical properties of a synthetic polyester filament (strength, elongation, low shrinkage) with the aesthetic properties of a staple cotton or polyester wrap (softness, appearance, heat protection). Corespun threads have the potential to increase machine productivity by up to 20% over staple spun polyester. Advantages ƒ High seam strength ƒ High speed multi-directional sewing ƒ Helps to contain and eliminate many puckering problems Applications ƒ All Apparel (Lingerie to jeans) ƒ Furniture ƒ Home Furnishings
  • 6.
    Core threads aremade by wrapping a staple polyester or cotton wrapper around a continuous filament bundle of polyester fibers during spin-ning, and then plying these yarns into a sewing thread. Core threads for the toughest sewing applications from sewing fine blouses that are susceptible to seam puckering ... to denim products that will be stone-washed or sand blasted. Brands: D-Core - cotton wrapped polyester core Perma Core - polyester wrapped polyester core Wrapper 40% Core 60%
  • 7.
    Benefits: • 40to 50% stronger than spun polyester threads the same size • Superior Sewability on both manual and automatic machines with minimum interruptions - fewer restitched seams • Allows the use of smaller diameter threads to minimize Seam Puckering or Needle cutting • Reduced Open-Seams and Seam Failures • Higher initial price compared to spun polyester
  • 8.
    Singles Yarn 2Ply Wrapper 40% Core 60% CORE SPUN Un-twist the thread and separate out a singles yarn. Un-twist the singles yarn. If the thread falls apart, it is a Spun thread construction. If the thread will not fall apart but maintains its strength, then it is a Corespun thread construction.
  • 9.
    Continuous filament –Textured Texturing is the process where continuous filament fibres are entangled by various mechanical methods which impart softness and bulk. Market Terminology ƒ Fluff thread ƒ Bulky thread ƒ Wooly thread Applications ƒ Active wear ƒ Lingerie, tee shirts, underwear ƒ Fleece wear ƒ Over lock and Coverseams
  • 10.
    Thread Substrates Poly/CotCore spun D Core Poly/Poly Core spun Perma Core Staple spun polyester Perma Spun C.F. Poly TerylB C.F. Poly – Trilobal Stylo C.F. Poly – Textured Wildcat C.F. Poly – Microfilament Textured Permasoft Cotton - mercerized Anecot
  • 11.
    Applications by Substrate  Corespun ƒ Cotton wrapped polyester core used for sewing jeans, chinos, etc. ƒ Polyester wrapped polyester core used for sewing everything from intimate apparel to jeans.  Spun Polyester made from 100% polyester staple fibres also used for most apparel applications.  Textured Polyester used primarily for overedge and coverstitch operations.  Air Entangled Polyester is made from 100% continuous polyester filaments that have been entangled using high pressure air. Generally not a plied construction.Used in some jeans serging operations.  Continuous Filament Nylon or Polyester used for sewing leather goods, footwear,upholstered furniture, sporting goods, luggage, etc.
  • 12.
    There is NOTOne Perfect Thread for All Seaming Operations … There is NOT One Perfect Thread for All Seaming Operations … However There Is A Perfect Thread for A Specific Sewing Application! However There Is A Perfect Thread for A Specific Sewing Application! “For every sewing requirement!”
  • 14.
  • 15.
    Yarn Count Systems Fixed weight Fixed length Number English Number metric Denier Tex Decitex Higher the number the finer the thread. Higher the number the coarser the thread. Cotton counts: Ne 60/2 Ne 50/2 Ne 40/2 Ne 20/4 Metric counts: Nm 80/2 Nm 20/3 Denier: 120d/2 150d 200d 300d Tex: 18 24 40 105 270 D’tex: 50 70 100 400 Cotton Count - number of 840 hanks in 1 pound Metric - number of hanks in 1,000 metres/kilograms Denier - grams per 9,000 metres Tex - grams per 1,000 metres Decitex (D;tex) - grams per 10,000 metres
  • 16.
    Two plied threadwhere 20 is the count of single yarn & /2 stands for number of ply. 20 X 840 yds = 16800 yds/lb The yarns become finer as the count number increases
  • 17.
    Metric Sizes 50 75 120 140 180 Yarn Sizes 30/3 40/3 40/2 50/2 60/2 Tex Sizes T- 60 T- 45 T- 30 T- 21 T- 18 1000 meters of Gram Weight greige yarn HK Sizes 604 403 402 502 602
  • 18.
    Cotton to Tex590.5 ÷ cotton count Tex to cotton 590.5 ÷ tex Cotton to metric Cotton count × 1.69 Metric to cotton Metric count × 0.59 Cotton to denier 5315 ÷ cotton count
  • 20.
    Stitch Class DescriptionConsumption % of needle thread % of under thread (incl. cover) 301 Lockstitch 3.0 50 50 101 Chainstitch 4.5 100 . 401 2 thread chain stitch 6.0 25 75 304 Zigzag stitch 7.0 50 50 503 2 thread overedge stitch 12.0 55 45 504 3 thread overedge stitch 14.0 20 80 512 4 thread safety stitch 18.0 25 75 516 5 thread safety stitch 20.0 20 80 406 3 thread cover ing stitch 18.0 30 70 602 4 thread cover ing stitch 25.0 20 80 605 5 thread cover ing stitch 28.0 30 70
  • 21.
    General guidelines forthread selection Sewing Thread Sizes Weight of Materials Tex 18, 24 Tex 30, 40 (Ounces per Sq Yard) Garment Examples 2 - 4 Tee Shirts, Lingerie Tex 24, 27, 30 4 - 6 Shirts, Dresses 6 - 8 Light Weight Bottoms Tex 40, 60 8 - 12 Light Weight Denim Tex 60, 80, 105 12 - 15 Heavy Weight Denim
  • 22.
    Quality Fabric Quality Trim Quality Vendors Quality Garment Construction Methods
  • 26.
    EXCESSIVE RESTITCHED SEAMS- EXCESSIVE RESTITCHED SEAMS - • Sewn products with excessive restitched seams on topstitching are NOT first quality merchandise! • Restitched seams come from sewing interruptions on the production floor caused by thread breaks or skipped stitches. AE High Performance Threads … Will • Sewn products with excessive restitched seams on topstitching are NOT first quality merchandise! • Restitched seams come from sewing interruptions on the production floor caused by thread breaks or skipped stitches. AE High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! Make the Difference!
  • 27.
    Automatic Pocket Set (Excessive Restitched Seams due Automatic Pocket Set (Excessive Restitched Seams due to Thread Breaks) to Thread Breaks)
  • 28.
    EXCESSIVE RESTITCHED SEAMSon Accessories EXCESSIVE RESTITCHED SEAMS on Accessories
  • 30.
    EXCESSIVE BROKEN STITCHES- EXCESSIVE BROKEN STITCHES - • Many sourcing companies or manufacturers spend anywhere from $.50 to $3.00 US per garment to give them a distressed appearance or a soft feel after laundering. • Many sourcing companies or manufacturers spend anywhere from $.50 to $3.00 US per garment to give them a distressed appearance or a soft feel after laundering. Choosing the Right Thread … Choosing the Right Thread … Can Make a Difference! Can Make a Difference!
  • 33.
    EXCESSIVE SKIPPED STITCHES EXCESSIVE SKIPPED STITCHES • Here are examples of garments pulled of the shelf, or return from the consumer, with skipped stitches. Skipping can be the result of Poor Loop Formation. • Here are examples of garments pulled of the shelf, or return from the consumer, with skipped stitches. Skipping can be the result of Poor Loop Formation. AE High Performance Threads … AE High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! Will Make the Difference!
  • 34.
    EXCESSIVE SKIPPED STITCHESON KNITS EXCESSIVE SKIPPED STITCHES ON KNITS AE High Performance Threads … AE High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! Will Make the Difference!
  • 35.
    EXCESSIVE NEEDLE CUTTINGON KNITS EXCESSIVE NEEDLE CUTTING ON KNITS • A very common problem on knits is having excessive needle holes along the stitch line.We call this Needle Cutting. • Using very small needles with a ball point will definitely minimize needle cutting, but …. smaller needles require smaller thread sizes. Using a low tenacity weak thread can result in excessive Open Seams. • A very common problem on knits is having excessive needle holes along the stitch line.We call this Needle Cutting. • Using very small needles with a ball point will definitely minimize needle cutting, but …. smaller needles require smaller thread sizes. Using a low tenacity weak thread can result in excessive Open Seams. AE High Performance Threads … AE High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! Will Make the Difference!
  • 36.
    EXCESSIVE SEAM PUCKERING EXCESSIVE SEAM PUCKERING • A common problem on many woven products is excessive SEAM PUCKERING … where the seam does not lay flat and look right. You can sometime remove the puckering temporarily with a hot iron. However, in most cases the puckering usually comes back! • A common problem on many woven products is excessive SEAM PUCKERING … where the seam does not lay flat and look right. You can sometime remove the puckering temporarily with a hot iron. However, in most cases the puckering usually comes back! AE High Performance Threads … AE High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! Will Make the Difference!
  • 38.
    Spun Polyester T-403.3 lbs Poly-wrapped Polyester Core T-40 4.5 lbs Using a higher tenacity thread can help: • Reduce thread breakage and restitched seams • Reduce seam failures • Allow the use of a smaller diameter thread
  • 39.
    Perma Core Spun Poly T-30 (120) They may look the They may look the same i ns tahem seea min. the seam. PERMA CORE SPUN POLY They may look the same on the cone. Tex Size: Strength: Avg. single-end break (lbs.) T-30 (120) 3.8 2.2 Same 72% Diff Seam Strength: 301 Lockstitch @ 8 spi (lbs.) 44 32 38% Diff
  • 40.
    Best Quality PoorQuality - Excessive Seam Pucker
  • 41.
    Seam Performance High Elongation Good Elastic Recovery Sewability Low Elongation or High Initial Modulus Elongation can also have a tremendous impact on Sewability Seam Performance
  • 44.
    Properties of goodthread  Required strength  Low shrinkage  Optimum elongation  Proper lubrication  Balanced twist level  High resistance to abrasion
  • 45.
    TThhrreeaadd BBuurrnn OOuutt Why thread burns ? Needle temperature - 360ºc (max) Melting point of polyester - 200ºc to 250ºc Check lists Correct size of sewing thread Needle selection Machine threading Sewing tension
  • 46.
    When a threadbreak occurs The operator repairs the break BUT, she/he may also: Walk away from the machine for a break • Take time out to complain about the breakages • Take time trying a different cone of thread • Take time trying to resolve the thread breakage's by trying a new needle • Waste time playing with the thread tensions All of these things cost production time and increase of operator frustration and fatigue frustrated operators + increased fatigue + reduced morale = lower quality garments and lower production levels
  • 47.
    Time lost dueto thread breaks 50 lockstitch machines 2 thread breaks per hour Minimum 30 secs to re-thread re-sew after each break Therefore in 8 hours day, 8 minutes lost per m/c. How many individual pieces can be STITCHED in 8 minutes? 6 hours 40 minutes time lost per day with only 50 lockstitch machine
  • 48.
    LLuubbrriiccaattiioonn  Preventsthread burn out  Cools the needle during sewing  Reduces wear tear of machine parts  Increases seam strength Produce a regular low amount of friction. Protect the thread from frictional needle heat damage. Allow even off-winding in the supply package. Be non-staining.
  • 49.
    Twist direction Twistis defined as the number of turns inserted per meter (TPM) of yarn or thread produced. If the twist is too low, the yarns may fray and break. If too high, it can cause snarling or looping resulting in thread breakage. S twist is also known as anti-clockwise or Right twist Z twist is also known as clockwise or Left twist
  • 51.
    Seam Engineering Agarment is made up using a series of different seams. Therefore, a thread should be chosen for specific seams to ensure maximum benefits.  Seam appearance ƒ Is the seam attractive, consistent, and neat?  Seam strength ƒ Have the correct seam type and thread selections been made for the item being sewn?  Seam stretch ƒ Does the seam allow stretch especially in high elongation fabrics viz : knits, lycra blends  Seam durability ƒ Do the properties of the seam, thread, and fabric lend themselve to the desired length of use for the item sewn?
  • 52.
    Seams  Aseam consists of a series of stitches or stitch types used to join two or more plies of material together.  A seam is loadbearing and should be similar in physical properties to the material being sewn.
  • 53.
    Seam Strength Seam Type ƒ A lap felled seam is the strongest of all seam types because the fabric is lapped upon itself and shares the stress load along with the thread. However, the lap felled seam makes a bulky seam. ƒ A butt seam is designed to maintain a flat profile, but in this type seam the thread bears the entire load of stress in the seam.  Stitch Type ƒ The lockstitch is the most common stitch used, but the most easily damaged. ƒ Chain and overedge stitches offer more extensibility, which leads to more resistance to stress.  Stitch Density ƒ Seam strength is usually proportional to stitch density. ƒ Increasing stitches per inch gives a stronger seam up to a point. Sometimes it is more economical to use a stronger thread.
  • 54.
    Seam Strength Criticalfactors :  Thread strength  Stitch type  Stitch rating  Seam type  Fabric type  Needle size point Seam strength = SPI X STS X 1.5 - lockstitch SPI X STS X 1.7 - chainstitch e.g. for a seam with a density of 16 spi a thread with a 1100 gms STS seam strength for lockstitch = 16 X 1100 X 1.5 = 26,400 gms. = 26. 4 kgs seam strength for chainstitch = 16 X 1100 X 1.7 = 29,920 gms. = 29. 9 kgs The seam is sewn at right angles to the direction of load.
  • 55.
    Seam Stretch Severalfactors influence seam stretch:  Stitch type (lockstitch, chainstitch, or zig zag of either for a bra strap)  Stitches per inch  Thread type (elongation characteristics)  Fabric type (stretchability) Seam stretch is expressed as a % .
  • 56.
    Seam Durability Definedas the ability of a seam to withstand abrasion during :  during the sewing process  at the time of washing  day to day wear tear of a garment Durability factor for various substrates :  Rayon : 1  Cotton : 3  SSP : 12  Core spun : 30  CF Nylon : 150
  • 57.
    Factors of seamdurability • Thread finish • Thread abrasion resistance • Stitch type • Stitch balance tightness • Seam type • Fabric properties
  • 58.
    Seam security Thesecurity of a seam depends chiefly upon the stitch type and its susceptibility to become unraveled. The stitch must be well set to the material to prevent snagging that can cause rupture of the thread and unravelling of certain stitch types. Several factors influence seam security:  Stitch type (it must not be universal)  Stitches per inch  Thread type (must not be too lively)  Seam type (what stresses?)  Fabric type (what stresses?)
  • 59.
    Seam appearance Theappearance of a seam is generally governed by the proper relatonship of the following:  Thread - size and type (decorative, etc.)  Stitches per inch - top stitching?  Seam type  Fabric texture and weight
  • 60.
     Tension pucker  Feed pucker  Shrinkage pucker  Inherent pucker  Fabric flagging
  • 61.
    Tension Pucker Caused by high thread tension during sewing.  More pronounced when synthetic threads are used.  These threads on account of high stretch properties elongate more during sewing.  After sewing the threads recover from the stretched state pulling the fabric with it. Remedy: Thread tensions have to be kept as low as possible.
  • 62.
    Feed Pucker Encountered when sewing very fine fabrics.  The plies of fabric tend to slip over each other resulting in uneven feed leading to pucker. Remedy :  Opting for advanced types of feed systems like compound or unison feed.  Puller feed is more cost effective.
  • 63.
    Shrinkage Pucker Washpucker - during the wash process the thread in the seam shrinks, pulling the fabric with it. More so when using cotton threads. Ironing pucker - normally happens when synthetic threads are used. The heat destabilizes the molecular structure of the thread causing it to contract. Remedy Choosing threads with low shrinkage properties.
  • 64.
    Inherent Pucker Normally seen when sewing densely woven materials.  This occurs because the needle forcibly displaces the warp weft ends of the dense weave to a significant extent.  These displaced ends are pushed upwards to the surface of the fabric and appear as pucker.  This is also know as 'STRUCTURAL JAMMING' Remedy  Opting for finer needles threads  Opt for a chain stitch in place of a lock stitch  Reduce stitch density  Biased stitching
  • 66.
    Fabric Flagging A machine related issue  the throat plate aperture enlarges due to wear tear  while sewing the needle pushes the fabric through the aperture before penetrating the fabric  this can also happen when the needle size (thickness) is changed and if the throat plate is not changed accordingly. Remedy  throat plates must be changed at regular intervals after checking for wear tear  throat plates must be changed in accordance with the needle size even if there are no signs of wear tear. Needle Size - 8/60 9/65 10/70 12/80 14/90 16100 Throat plate - Nm 100 120 120 140 160 160 aperture size
  • 68.
    Increased Inspection Rejections of work Excessive Repairs Missed Shipping Dates Lost Sales I paid $$$ for this Brand-name I paid $$$ for this Brand-name Shirt and after three Shirt and after three launderings, the seams are launderings, the seams are falling apart! falling apart! CONSUMER
  • 69.
    What’s really onthe line is your reputation
  • 70.
    Using any threadregardless of the impact it has on your final quality. Not buying from a thread company that can provide full-service support when you need it. Potential loss of credibility with your customers by having excessive quality issues.
  • 72.
    Unquality Costs thatyou should consider: More thread breaks and restitched seams Higher overhead costs - more machines required Longer In-process times - penalties due to Shipment Delays Charge-backs from Retailer Potential Claims due to needle fragments More thread breaks and restitched seams Higher overhead costs - more machines required Longer In-process times - penalties due to Shipment Delays Charge-backs from Retailer Potential Claims due to needle fragments
  • 75.
    Ideal Low GarmentMtrs./Garment Thread Combo Priced Spun Difference Blouse 111 $.05 $.03 $.02 Bra 57 $.02 $.01 $.01 Dress 128 $.04 $.02 $.02 Dress Shirt – LS 120 $.07 $.03 $.04 Jean 228 $.20 $.15 $.05 Knit Brief 62 $.02 $.01 $.01 Knit Polo Shirt 153 $.05 $.03 $.02 Knit Tee Shirt 57 $.02 $.01 $.01 Panty 56 $.02 $.01 $.01 Suit Coat 160 $.05 $.03 $.02 Sweat Shirt 255 $.09 $.05 $.04 Woven Slack 173 $.10 $.06 $.04 Work Pants 217 $.17 $.07 $.10 * Thread Price Information in U.S. $ for comparative purposes only. For actual thread prices, contact your AE Sales Representative
  • 76.
    Thread only makesup a small percent of the COST of the garment .... but shares 50% of the responsibility for the seam!
  • 77.
    Lets say, A E thread costs $0.75/cone of 2500 mtrs. (60/3) Lets assume 100 m thread is required to make one shirt Cost/ Shirt: $0.03 Cheaper thread costs $0.60/cone of 2500mts (60/3) Cost per shirt: $0.024 Notional saving by using cheaper thread? 0.03 - 0.024 = $0.006/shirt So, if you stitch 1000 shirts/day in your factory, that is $6.00 SAVED per day or is it? NO, you do not save by using cheaper thread.
  • 78.
    • Thread breakage-low lube, strength, low tenacity • Skipped stitches - inconsistent lube, unbalanced twist • Needle breakage - knots • Rejects - stitching faults, seam faults • Lost production Costs at sewing increase when inferior quality threads are used.
  • 80.
  • 82.
    Most companies haveexperienced that using QUALITY THREADS with Minimum Yarn Imperfections and Consistent Physical Characteristics … ... Will Make A Difference in producing quality product !