Spinning Quality & Spinning Parameters
Name : MAZADUL HASAN SHESHIR
ID: 2010000400008
Batch: 13th Batch (Session 2009-2013)
Department: Wet Processing Technology
Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com (FB)
Blog: www. Textilelab.blogspot.com
Southeast University,Bangladesh
Department of Textile Engineering
PREPARED BY ©right
The following terms & definitions are used to describe and explain cotton fiber
maturity.
Circularity :
The degree of thickening which is calculated by the cross sectional area of the fiber
wall divided by the area of a circle of the same perimeter.
Theta :
Average circularity of the matured fibers also described as the degree of thickening.
Fineness (mtex) : Average fiber fineness (weight per unit length) in millitex. 1000
meters of fibers with a mass of 1 milligram equals 1 millitex.
IFC (%) :
Immature fiber content in percent. Percentage of fibers with less than 0.25 circularity.
The lower the IFC% the better the fiber is for dyeing.
Maturity Ratio :
Maturity Ratio is the ratio of fibers with a 0.5 (or more) circularity ratio devided by the
amount of fibers with a 0.25 (or less) circularity. The higher the maturity ratio, the
more mature the fibers are and the better the fibers are for dyeing.
Terms & Definitions:
Type of yarn Count
Cotton Yarn 16s ,20s, 22s, 24s, 26S, 28S, 30S, 34S, 40S
Polyester Yarn 75D, 100D,150D
Spandex yarn 20D,40D,70D
Grey Mellange (C-90% V-10%) 20S ,22S ,24S, 26S ,30S ,34S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
RAW MATERIALS USE FOR KNITTING:
Relation between count and staple length
For Weaving For Knitting
20 Nec 22.5 ~ 24.5 mm 20 ~ 25 Nec 26.5 ~ 27.5 mm
24 Nec 23.0 ~ 25.5 mm 26 ~ 30 Nec 27.5 ~ 28.5 mm
26 Nec 24.0 ~ 26.5 mm 32 ~ 34 Nec 28.5 ~ 29.5 mm
30 Nec 25.0 ~ 27.0 mm 36 ~ 40 Nec 29.5 ~ 30.5 mm
36 Nec 26.0 ~ 28.0 mm
Types of yarns
Type of yarn Count
Cotton 20S ,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 36S ,40S, 45S
Polyester 70D,100D,150D
Spandex yarn 20D,40D,70D
Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S, 26S
Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S, 26S, 28S
Cotton Mélange (100%) 24S, 26S, 28S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
Yarn
Fibre
Evenness (
U% / CV% )
Thin places
Thick places
Neps/1000 m yarn
Classimat faults/100
km yarn
Breaking
tenacity
(Fmax/tex)
Breaking
elongation (%
)
Hairiness
(H)
Fibre length 1 2 3 4 5
Micronaire value 6 7 8 9 10
Nep content
Leaf content
Trash content
Microdust content
Fibre fragments content
11 12 13 14 15
1/8 Breaking strength 16 17 18 19 20
1/8 Elongation 21 22 23 24 25
Colour / reflectance 26 27 28 29 30
Relationship between fibre strength & the yarn tensile properties.
Relationship between yarn & fibre quality characteristics ( Rotor spun yarn ).
Yarn
Fibre
Evenness
( U% / CV%
)
Thin places
Thick places
Neps/1000 m yarn
Classimat faults/100
km yarn
Breaking
tenacity
(Fmax/tex)
Breaking
elongation (%
)
Hairiness (H)
Fibre length 1 2 3 4 5
Micronaire value 6 7 8 9 10
Nep content
Leaf content
Trash content
Microdust content
Fibre fragments content
11 12 13 14 15
1/8 Breaking strength 16 17 18 19 20
1/8 Elongation 21 22 23 24 25
Colour / reflectance 26 27 28 29 30
Raw material / cotton fibre selection :
 Fibre length & its uniformity
 Fibre strength
 Short fibre content
 Fineness (mic.)
 Maturity
 Nep content
 Color
Mixing :
 Contamination sorting
 Consistency of mix
Blow Room :
 Frequency of process / mix change
 Waste control
Carding :
 Carding Speed
 Neps content in card sliver
 Sliver linear density & variation control
 Waste control
Key Control Parameters Of spinning Floor :
Lap forming & Combing :
 Control of lap weight
 Comber speed
 Noil (Comber waste) extraction
 Neps in combed sliver
Drawing :
 Drawing speed
 Sliver uniformity/Regularity control
Simplex Fly Frame/Roving Frame :
 Flyer Speed
 Twist level
 Frequency of process change
Ring Spinning :
 Spindle speed
 Twist level
 Frequency of process/raw material changes
Winding :
 Winding Speed
 Frequency of process change
Key Control Parameters Of spinning Floor :
a) Blow-room
Function :
1. Opening & Cleaning
Wastage
1. Dropping
2. Filter waste
3. Fine Dust
b) Carding
Function :
1. Parallelization & straightening
2. Nap & dead fiber remove
3. Wt/unit length Sliver
Wastage
1. L-in wastage
2. Flat strip
3. Sliver wastage
4. A/C Dust : Back, Ring & Winding
Function & Wastage of different section
Function & Wastage of different section
c) Drawing
Function
1. Drafting & Doubling
2. Uniform sliver (wt/unit length)
3. More parallelization &
straightening (by reduce hook).
Wastage
1. Filter wastage
2. Sliver wastage.
d) Unilap
Function:
1. Lap formation
2. Drafting & doubling.
Wastage:
1. Sliver.
e) Comber.
Function:
1. Short fibers remove
2. Naps remove.
Wastage:
1. Comber Noil.
f) Simplex
Function:
1. Roving formation
2. Drafting & twisting
3. Roving Build up in bobbin.
Wastage:
1. Roving wastage.
g) Ring Frame
Function
1. Yarn formation
2. Drafting & twisting
3. Yarn Build up in bobbin.
Wastage:
1. Pneumafil
2. Bonda wastage
3. Wooden roller wastage
4. Sweeping
5. Roving wastage.
h) Wingding
Function
1. Fault free yarn
2. Suitable package.
Wastage:
1. Hard waste
2. Filter waste
3. Sweeping waste.
Function & Wastage of different section
Function & Wastage of different section
I) Heat set
Function
1. Twist set
2. Yarn lustier & dye absorption increase
3. Std. moisture regains.
# Importance of FIFO
 Light patta
 Yarn strength decrease
 Overall yarn quality deteorates.
# Bag handling & storage
 Cone damage
 Count & lot mixing
 Overall yarn quality deteorates.
# Control of SECDS
 Missing & wrong stickers
 Missing & wrong lot no
 Paper cone condition
 Oil & hand strain
 Top & bottom stitches
 Damage Cone
 Off standard spindle
 Gara cops
 Count & lot mix
 Shaded cone
 TPI variation
 Thick & thin problem.
TOPIC : SELECTION OF RAW COTTON WITH RESPECT TO COUNT AND PROCESSING
MACHINERY.
Pre-Ginning : Cotton Fibre quality depend on the following points to a large
extent.
1. Agriculture system
2. Location
3. Weather
4. Picking system & no of pick
5. Ginning preparation
Ginning system & type of ginning:
1. Basic working principle of saw & roller ginning
2. Merits & Demerits of roller ginning
3. Merits & Demerits of saw ginning
Relation between processing machine & trash in the cotton:
Normal range:
Count 20’s 30’s 40’s 60’s 80’s 100’s
Trash 5.0 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0
For ring yarn processing:
 Selection of no of beating point
 Percentage of seat coat fragment in sliver & cotton
 Draft roller distance
 A/C plant performance
For OE yarn processing:
 Selection of no of beating point
 Trash & dust remaining in sliver
 Draft roller distance
 A/C plant performance
A.Classification of cotton base on 2.5% spun length value.
Class
2.5% spun length
mm Inch
Extra long staple 33.0 & above 1.30 & above
Long staple 29.5 to 32.5 1.15 to 1.29
Medium staple 25.0 to 29.0 0.98 to 1.14
Short staple A 20.5 to 24.5 0.81 to 0.97
Short staple B 20.0 & below 0.80 & below
Count vs raw cotton selection:
COTTON PARCHASE SYSTEM
COTTON PARCHASE SYSTEM
QULITY MANAGEMENT
QULITY MANAGEMENT
Quality Characteristics Of Cotton yarn
QualityCharacteristicsOfCottonyarn
CV % (Co Efficient of Variation)
CV % (Co Efficient of Variation)
CV % (Co Efficient of Variation)
Degree of Contamination
Imperfection (Thick & Thin places)
FAULTS
FAULTS
FAULTS
Spinning  parameters
Spinning  parameters
Spinning  parameters
Spinning  parameters

Spinning parameters

  • 1.
    Spinning Quality &Spinning Parameters
  • 2.
    Name : MAZADULHASAN SHESHIR ID: 2010000400008 Batch: 13th Batch (Session 2009-2013) Department: Wet Processing Technology Email: [email protected] (FB) Blog: www. Textilelab.blogspot.com Southeast University,Bangladesh Department of Textile Engineering PREPARED BY ©right
  • 6.
    The following terms& definitions are used to describe and explain cotton fiber maturity. Circularity : The degree of thickening which is calculated by the cross sectional area of the fiber wall divided by the area of a circle of the same perimeter. Theta : Average circularity of the matured fibers also described as the degree of thickening. Fineness (mtex) : Average fiber fineness (weight per unit length) in millitex. 1000 meters of fibers with a mass of 1 milligram equals 1 millitex. IFC (%) : Immature fiber content in percent. Percentage of fibers with less than 0.25 circularity. The lower the IFC% the better the fiber is for dyeing. Maturity Ratio : Maturity Ratio is the ratio of fibers with a 0.5 (or more) circularity ratio devided by the amount of fibers with a 0.25 (or less) circularity. The higher the maturity ratio, the more mature the fibers are and the better the fibers are for dyeing. Terms & Definitions:
  • 7.
    Type of yarnCount Cotton Yarn 16s ,20s, 22s, 24s, 26S, 28S, 30S, 34S, 40S Polyester Yarn 75D, 100D,150D Spandex yarn 20D,40D,70D Grey Mellange (C-90% V-10%) 20S ,22S ,24S, 26S ,30S ,34S PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S RAW MATERIALS USE FOR KNITTING:
  • 8.
    Relation between countand staple length For Weaving For Knitting 20 Nec 22.5 ~ 24.5 mm 20 ~ 25 Nec 26.5 ~ 27.5 mm 24 Nec 23.0 ~ 25.5 mm 26 ~ 30 Nec 27.5 ~ 28.5 mm 26 Nec 24.0 ~ 26.5 mm 32 ~ 34 Nec 28.5 ~ 29.5 mm 30 Nec 25.0 ~ 27.0 mm 36 ~ 40 Nec 29.5 ~ 30.5 mm 36 Nec 26.0 ~ 28.0 mm
  • 10.
    Types of yarns Typeof yarn Count Cotton 20S ,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 36S ,40S, 45S Polyester 70D,100D,150D Spandex yarn 20D,40D,70D Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S, 26S Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S, 26S, 28S Cotton Mélange (100%) 24S, 26S, 28S PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
  • 11.
    Yarn Fibre Evenness ( U% /CV% ) Thin places Thick places Neps/1000 m yarn Classimat faults/100 km yarn Breaking tenacity (Fmax/tex) Breaking elongation (% ) Hairiness (H) Fibre length 1 2 3 4 5 Micronaire value 6 7 8 9 10 Nep content Leaf content Trash content Microdust content Fibre fragments content 11 12 13 14 15 1/8 Breaking strength 16 17 18 19 20 1/8 Elongation 21 22 23 24 25 Colour / reflectance 26 27 28 29 30 Relationship between fibre strength & the yarn tensile properties.
  • 12.
    Relationship between yarn& fibre quality characteristics ( Rotor spun yarn ). Yarn Fibre Evenness ( U% / CV% ) Thin places Thick places Neps/1000 m yarn Classimat faults/100 km yarn Breaking tenacity (Fmax/tex) Breaking elongation (% ) Hairiness (H) Fibre length 1 2 3 4 5 Micronaire value 6 7 8 9 10 Nep content Leaf content Trash content Microdust content Fibre fragments content 11 12 13 14 15 1/8 Breaking strength 16 17 18 19 20 1/8 Elongation 21 22 23 24 25 Colour / reflectance 26 27 28 29 30
  • 14.
    Raw material /cotton fibre selection :  Fibre length & its uniformity  Fibre strength  Short fibre content  Fineness (mic.)  Maturity  Nep content  Color Mixing :  Contamination sorting  Consistency of mix Blow Room :  Frequency of process / mix change  Waste control Carding :  Carding Speed  Neps content in card sliver  Sliver linear density & variation control  Waste control Key Control Parameters Of spinning Floor :
  • 15.
    Lap forming &Combing :  Control of lap weight  Comber speed  Noil (Comber waste) extraction  Neps in combed sliver Drawing :  Drawing speed  Sliver uniformity/Regularity control Simplex Fly Frame/Roving Frame :  Flyer Speed  Twist level  Frequency of process change Ring Spinning :  Spindle speed  Twist level  Frequency of process/raw material changes Winding :  Winding Speed  Frequency of process change Key Control Parameters Of spinning Floor :
  • 16.
    a) Blow-room Function : 1.Opening & Cleaning Wastage 1. Dropping 2. Filter waste 3. Fine Dust b) Carding Function : 1. Parallelization & straightening 2. Nap & dead fiber remove 3. Wt/unit length Sliver Wastage 1. L-in wastage 2. Flat strip 3. Sliver wastage 4. A/C Dust : Back, Ring & Winding Function & Wastage of different section
  • 17.
    Function & Wastageof different section c) Drawing Function 1. Drafting & Doubling 2. Uniform sliver (wt/unit length) 3. More parallelization & straightening (by reduce hook). Wastage 1. Filter wastage 2. Sliver wastage. d) Unilap Function: 1. Lap formation 2. Drafting & doubling. Wastage: 1. Sliver. e) Comber. Function: 1. Short fibers remove 2. Naps remove. Wastage: 1. Comber Noil. f) Simplex Function: 1. Roving formation 2. Drafting & twisting 3. Roving Build up in bobbin. Wastage: 1. Roving wastage.
  • 18.
    g) Ring Frame Function 1.Yarn formation 2. Drafting & twisting 3. Yarn Build up in bobbin. Wastage: 1. Pneumafil 2. Bonda wastage 3. Wooden roller wastage 4. Sweeping 5. Roving wastage. h) Wingding Function 1. Fault free yarn 2. Suitable package. Wastage: 1. Hard waste 2. Filter waste 3. Sweeping waste. Function & Wastage of different section
  • 19.
    Function & Wastageof different section I) Heat set Function 1. Twist set 2. Yarn lustier & dye absorption increase 3. Std. moisture regains. # Importance of FIFO  Light patta  Yarn strength decrease  Overall yarn quality deteorates. # Bag handling & storage  Cone damage  Count & lot mixing  Overall yarn quality deteorates. # Control of SECDS  Missing & wrong stickers  Missing & wrong lot no  Paper cone condition  Oil & hand strain  Top & bottom stitches  Damage Cone  Off standard spindle  Gara cops  Count & lot mix  Shaded cone  TPI variation  Thick & thin problem.
  • 20.
    TOPIC : SELECTIONOF RAW COTTON WITH RESPECT TO COUNT AND PROCESSING MACHINERY.
  • 21.
    Pre-Ginning : CottonFibre quality depend on the following points to a large extent. 1. Agriculture system 2. Location 3. Weather 4. Picking system & no of pick 5. Ginning preparation Ginning system & type of ginning: 1. Basic working principle of saw & roller ginning 2. Merits & Demerits of roller ginning 3. Merits & Demerits of saw ginning
  • 22.
    Relation between processingmachine & trash in the cotton: Normal range: Count 20’s 30’s 40’s 60’s 80’s 100’s Trash 5.0 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 For ring yarn processing:  Selection of no of beating point  Percentage of seat coat fragment in sliver & cotton  Draft roller distance  A/C plant performance For OE yarn processing:  Selection of no of beating point  Trash & dust remaining in sliver  Draft roller distance  A/C plant performance
  • 23.
    A.Classification of cottonbase on 2.5% spun length value. Class 2.5% spun length mm Inch Extra long staple 33.0 & above 1.30 & above Long staple 29.5 to 32.5 1.15 to 1.29 Medium staple 25.0 to 29.0 0.98 to 1.14 Short staple A 20.5 to 24.5 0.81 to 0.97 Short staple B 20.0 & below 0.80 & below Count vs raw cotton selection:
  • 35.
  • 36.
  • 37.
  • 38.
  • 39.
  • 40.
  • 45.
    CV % (CoEfficient of Variation)
  • 46.
    CV % (CoEfficient of Variation)
  • 47.
    CV % (CoEfficient of Variation)
  • 55.
  • 57.
  • 62.
  • 63.
  • 64.