Stitch & seam viwer for garments sewing.pptx

What is stitch?
• A loop of thread or yarn resulting from a
single pass or movement of the needle in
sewing, knitting, or crocheting.

3 Type of mechanism to make a stitch
• Intraloop- 1 needle 1 lopper 1 thread
• Interloping- 1 needle 1 lopper 2 thread
• Interlacing- 1 needle 1 bobbin 2 thread

Intralooping
 Passing of a loop of thread through another loop
formed by the same thread.

Interlacing
Passing of a thread over or around another
thread or loop of different thread.

Interlooping
Passing of a loop of thread through anther
loop formed by different thread.

Stitch classification
Hand Stitch
(Class-200)
Lock Stitch
(Class-300)
Chain Stitch
Single thread chain stitch (Class-
100)
Multi- thread chain stitch (Class-
400 )
Over Lock chain stitch (Class-500 )
Top and Bottom Covering chain
stitch(Class-600 )

Stitch class – 100 (Single thread chain stitch)
Structure:
Stitches under this class are produced with single thread by intra-looping technique.
Disadvantage:
Starting and finishing end of the stitch under this class needs bar taking or back stitching to
secure the stitches
Advantage :
All the stitches under this class are unsecured and used for temporary purposes. That’s why it is
easy to open the stitch.
Most common uses:
 Blind stitching
 Hemming
 Button attaching
 Gathering
 Temporary positioning
 Stay stitch or False stitch

Stitch class – 200 (Hand stitch)
Structure:
Stitches under this class are also produced with single thread but by the use of special type of
sewing machine or by hand. We can say, hand stitch is the mother of all stitch. We have started
our stitching journey by this stitch
Disadvantage:
Stitch class – 200 can not be produced for longer length sewing.
They are very expensive to produce than any other stitch.
Speed of sewing is very slow.
Advantage :
100% secured stitch.
Most common uses:
Stitch class – 200 are used mainly for coat manufacturing.
Stitch type – 209 is shown in diagram which is used in the lapel area.
Pick Stitch Sewing Machine

Stitch class – 300 (Lock stitch)
Structure:
Stitches under this class are produced by interlacing technique with two threads. The upper
thread is called needle thread and the lower one is called bobbin thread.
Advantage:
Stitches under this class are naturally secured and shows good frictional resistance property. Its
extensibility is about 30%, hence used extensively in Ready Made Woven Garments products.
Most common uses:
Stitch type – 301 is shown in diagram which is
extensively used in domestic sewing machine, tailoring
sewing machine, RMG sector sewing machine, for
general sewing for attaching pocket, collar, cuff, etc
components.
Disadvantage:
Less extensibility stitch. Lower use in knit garment

Stitch class – 400 (Multi thread chain stitch)
Structure:
Stitch class – 400 is produced by interlacing and interloping technique. The upper thread is
called the needle thread and the lower one is called lopper thread.
Most common uses:
Stitch class – 400 is stronger than stitch class –
300, hence used for joining heavy fabrics, side
seam of trouser, hemming, neck top stitch etc
purposes.
Advantage:
Stitch class – 400 is stronger than stitch class – 300, More extensive. Easy to open
Disadvantage:
Less secured stitch. Needs to bar taking or back stitching to secure the stitches

Stitch class – 500 (Over edge stitch)
Structure:
Stitches under this class are produced with one or a group of more threads (one needle thread
and two or more lopper thread) and at least threads of one group round the edge of the fabric
stop fraying i.e. threads from the edge of the fabric can not come out.
Advantage:
The knife of the machine cuts the edge first producing a clear edge for seaming. Stitch under this
class is sometimes called over locking, but actually it is over edge stitch. It also reduce the
fraying of slack raw edge of fabric. More extensibility stitch
Disadvantage:
It consumes more thread. Needs to bar taking or back
stitching to secure the stitches
Most common uses:
Sometimes it is used for decorative purpose.
Join side seam , attach sleeve, close inseam,
attach neck rib in knit garment

Stitch class – 600 (Covering chain stitch)
Most common uses:
This type of stitch is used for sewing underwear, for
attaching lace, braid, elastic, front pouch, side part,
back part etc. It is also used for making cover stitch,
decorative stitch and top stitching.
Structure:
Stitches under this class are formed with at least three groups of threads and threads of two
groups are seen in both side of the fabric. Threads of first group are called needle thread and
threads of second group are called top cover threads and threads of third group are called
bottom cover thread.
Advantage: With this stitch we can minimize one process(OL). Actually it is a combination of
two stitch. More extensibility stitch. Without fabric machine can be run.
Disadvantage: Stitches under this group are very complex and may need up to 9 threads

What is seam?
• Seam is a line to join two or more ply of fabric.
Seam is used as functional purpose. Some
time it used as decorative purpose.

Properties of good seam
 Smooth fabric join
 No missed or uneven stitches
 No damage to the material being sewn
 Achievement of strength, elasticity, Durability, Security and
comfort.
 Comfortable while garment is in use

Classification of seam
 Class 1: Plain seam & French seam (supper imposed seam)
 Class 2: Welt seam or Lapped seam
 Class 3: Bound seam
 Class 4: Channel seam or flat seam
 Class 5: Ornamental or Decorative seam
 Class 6: Turned hem or, Edge neatening
 Class 7: Edge stitched seam
 Class 8: Enclosed seam
Seam construction- Categorized by the British standard institution. The
stitched seam are divided into eight class:

Class 1 – Plain seam & French seam (SI Seam)
CLASS 1 –SUPER IMPOSED SEAM DEFINITION:
 The seam of class-1 is called superimposed seam. This is the most
common & mostly used seam for joining fabrics. In this seam, two or more
plies of fabric are placed one on another perfectly & then the fabrics are
sewn. The sewn edges of the fabrics remain in the same side.
 USED:
– Join fabrics.
– Collar, Cuff sewing, Cuff topstitching.
– Collar band attach sewing and top stitching
– Side seam and sleeve attach with safety-sticker.
SEAM DIAGRAM:

Class 2- Welt seam or Lapped seam
CLASS 2- LAPPED SEAM SEEM DEFINITION:
 Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of
component.
 One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of
these two components are put in opposite directions.
 In this category of seams in which two or more plies of fabric are overlapped with the raw edges
exposed (for fabrics resistant to raveling) or the seam allowance is folded under and stitched with
one or more rows of stitching.
SEAM DIAGRAM:
 USED: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics
that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining
lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish

Class 3-Bound seam
CLASS 3- BOUND SEAM DEFINITION:
 Constructed by binding the component edge with another narrow component. The
seam produced with minimum of two pieces of component.
 One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on both ends. In this
category of seams in which the raw edges of the seam allowance of one or, more
plies of fabric, are covered with a bias binding and stitched with one or, more rows
of stitching.
SEAM DIAGRAM:
 Used: Finishing necklines, sleeves hems, inside waistbands
of trousers and pants, finishing seams on unlined jackets
and coats, adding interest as a design or decorative detail,
finishing raw edges, continuing the motif design of lace

Class 4- Channel seam or flat seam
CLASS 4: FLAT SEAM DEFINITION:
 Two pieces of fabric are laid flat with their edges closing each other without
overlapping. Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component.
 Both components are limited on one end but they are put opposition to each
other on the same level.
 In this category of seams in which the raw edges of the fabric plies are abutted or
just slightly overlapped and joined together with stitching that covers the joint. Flat
seams do not contain seam allowances, reducing fabric usage but increasing
thread quantity.
 Used: Close fitting garments where the seam allowance
may put pressure on the body, high- stretch fabrics
athletic apparel, shape wear, undergarments, lingerie,
thermal underwear, swimwear, sweatshirts with side
panels or with raglan sleeves, eliminating bulk at seams,
seaming pelts
SEAM DIAGRAM:

Class 5- Ornamental or, Decorative seam
CLASS 5: Ornamental or, Decorative seam:
 A seam class is used for decorative sewing on garments. Seams are produced with
minimum of one piece of component, with unlimited edges on both ends.
 In this category of seams that add ornamentation to one or more plies of fabric by
creating straight or curved lines or a designated design.
 Used: Adding a design detail, cording, piping, tucking, welting, box or inverted
pleating, decorative stitching.
SEAM DIAGRAM:

Class 6-Turned hem or, Edge neatening
CLASS 6: TURNED HEM OR, EDGE NEATENING SEAM DEFINITION:
 Stitching work made on the fabric edges for neatening.
 Seams are produced with one piece of component. This seam has one limited edge
on one end.
 In this category of seam constructed with one or two plies of fabric used to finish
the edge of a garment or item. There are three finishing types within the
classification.
– First, secures a folded edge to the shell fabric by stitching, either on the face or back.
– Second, stitching is used at the edge or to cover the raw edges, and may or may not be folded.
– Third, applies a binding on a single ply of a seam allowance to finish raw edges.
SEAM DIAGRAM:
 Used: To protect the fabric edge such that the warp yarns of
the fabric cannot easily open.

Class 7- Edge stitched seam
CLASS 7: NO TITLE SEAM DEFINITION:
 A narrow piece is sewn to the edge of a garment part.
 Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component
is limited on one end, and the other narrow one is limited on both ends.
 Used: These are sometimes called applied seams because they are mainly used to
a decorative material to an edge of seam such as lace-elastic.
SEAM DIAGRAM:

Class 8- Enclosed seam
CLASS 8: NO TITLE SEAM DEFINITION:
 Only one piece of component involved in construction the seam, stitches are
applied on its edges.
 Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component with a limited edge
on two ends.
 Used:
 Mainly one piece of fabric used.
 This class is commonly used for waist belts and belt loops.
 The edge of fabric is sewn by folding in various ways.
SEAM DIAGRAM:

Stitch & seam viwer for garments sewing.pptx

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