Textile terms and definitions

Chapter No 1
TEXTILE TERMS AND DEFINITIONS
Abrasion Text
A text used to simulate and measure the wear
performance of textile yarn, fabric, cloth covered natural.
Absolute Humidity
The mass of water vapours present in unit volume of
moist air is called absolute humidity. Its typical unit is g/m3.
Absorbency
The ability of textile material to take in and regain a
liquid such as water within fibers and within coarse.
Acid Dye
An anionic dye charterized by substantivity for protein
polyamide or other fibers containing basic groups. Acid dyes
are normally applied from an acid or neutral dye both.

Acrylic
A manufactured fibers composed of synthetic linear
micro molecules having in a chain at least 85% by parts, this
related to acrylonitrile group.
Dye Affinity
The quantitative expression of distribution of dye
between substrate and dye bath in equilibrium. It is different
between chemical potential state of dye in its standard state
in the fiber and corresponding chemical in the dye bath.
Ageing
1. Originally a process in printed fabric was exposed to a
hot moist atmosphere. At the present time, terms is almost
exclusively applied to the treatment of printed fabric in moist
steam in the absence of air.
2. Ageing is also used foe development of certain colours
in dyeing or Colourant, e.g. aniline black.

In manufacturing of viscose fiber oxidative depolarization of
alkali cellulose in order to procedure a control decrease in
chain length. The term is some time altering although
incorrectly used to describe the reacting of viscose.
3. The oxidation by exposure to air of drying oil sizes and
finishes.
4. The deterioration of rubber and plastics coatings and
proofing and of same lubricants on textiles caused by gradual
oxidation on storage and or exposure to light.
5. Progressive change with time in structure and
preparation of polymer including wool fibers.
Ager
A Chamber used for ageing is called ager.
Alpaca Fiber
Fiber from the fleece of semi-domesticated animal of
the same name or of the llama.

American Cloth
A light weight plain weave fabric usually of cotton,
coated on one side with a mixture of linseed oil and other
material so as to render it glossy and impermeable to air or
water.
Angora Fabric
A fabric woven from angora yarn.
Apparel
Personal outfil garments clothing including head ware and
foot ware this definition is includes all apparel even that or
non fibrous material .
Mohair
1. (The hair of the angoro rabbit.)
2. The hair of the angora goat is referred to as Mohair.
Apron

A device used to control continuous movement of fiber in
drafting system. It more common to utilize two apron as a
double
drafting system.
Aramid Fiber
A manufacture fiber composed synthetic linear micro
molecules having in denier amide groups untimate 55% which
are goint directly to aromatic rings.
Artists Canvas
A fabric made of cotton, linen, jute, hemp, prepared with
size and (Primed with lead) specifically for artists painting
grounds.
Assembly Winding
The winding of two or more year as one on to a single
package usually preparation of a package by twisting process.
Altas Fabric

A warp knitted fabric having two set of thread making
identical single altas movement in oppositions. (direction)
Auto Leveler
A electronic auto leveler device that is fitted to back of
carding and drawing machine which scanner observed the c.v.
or S.D of feeding material and massage to drafting roller by
means of change the speed of back drafting roller and to
control the S.D or C.Vof linear density of out put material , the
resultant is delivered by that machines linear density if the
necessary draft to compensation.
Anti Static Agent
A substance capable of preventing, reducing or dissipating
electric charges that might otherwise be produced.
Anionic Dye
A dye the dissociation in aqueous solution to give a
coloured negatively charged ion.

Auto Clave
A vessel in which texs material may be treated with
steam under pressure is called auto clave.
Azoic Dyeing
The production of an insoluble Azo compound on a
substrate by interaction of a diazotized amine and coupling
component.
B.A Wool
Wool originating from Argentina usually for luxurilly
material and coarse count.
Back Gray
The fabric used on a roller printing m/c b/w the fabric
and blanket to be printed sometime known as face fabric.
1. In order to absorbed any printing paste through the
printing fabric.
2. To impart resilience to the printed fabric allow sharping.

3. Fabric used in screen printing to support light weight
fabric to be printed in order to maintain stability and open the
fabric to be printed. The back gray and face fabric are
gummed together and with printed fabric itself to be gum in
printed table.
Back Telling
An other treatment to improve the wet fastness of dyed
of printed silk or polyamide material using either synthetic or
natural agents.
Bad Cover
A fabric appearance in which spaces between the threads
are more pronounced. Than is required. The amount or degree
of cover can be affected by loom adjustment setting or count
of reed or by the construction of the yarn used.
Balance Weave

A weave in which the averages float is the same in the
warp and weft directions and in which the warp and weft floats
are equally distributed between the two sides of the fabric.
Bale Breaker
A m/e used for opening cotton or other the short staple
fiber. The fiber ,oily and dirty, is removed directly form
compressed bale Layers of compressed fibers are taken from
bale and fed in to m/cs. The main object of B.B is to minimize
and opened the large tufts size in to small tufts size of raw
material where tearing action of two spick lattice which are
moving in opposite direction. This m/c is as bale breaker.
Bale Dyeing
Dyeing of loose stock in form of unpacked bale.
Alkali Cellulose
Alkali cellulose is the product of interaction of caustic
soda with purified cellulose. In the manufacturing of viscose

rayon. The cellulose may be cotton linters or wood pulp. After
pressing alkali cellulose usually contain approximate 30%
cellulose and 15% NAOH, the remember being Water. During
steeping of cellulose is concentrated NAOH to form the alkali
cellulose, soluble impurities including the soluble cellulose are
removed.
Barre
Unwanted strips in woven or knitted fabric. In woven
fabric this fault is in the directions of the width of fabric and
this is major fault. It’s caused may be as:
1. Due to uneven blending of different micronaire of cotton
2. Heavy cv percentage of count variation.
3. Stop and start wind off loom.
Back Winding
Process of rewinding for example hank or cone on to most
suitable package for next process for next process. Yarn in

sold in market on paper cone far example for yarn dyeing we
wind that yarn on perforated spool to absorbed dye.
Backing
A strip of material placed in side of garment to act as a
reinforcement.
Basic Dye
A cationic dye characterized by its substantively for
tannin-mordant cotton.
Bast Fiber
Fib obtained from outer layer of the stems of certain
plants.
Bastard Reed
A reed in which dent spacing and each side is slightly
greater then the center.
Beave

The silk fiber complete with its natural gum as it is with
drawn from a cocoon formed by silk worm.
Beam Dyeing
The dyeing of textile material wound on to a hallow
perforated roller in the form of a warp sheet or fabric on a
perforated beam.
Beaming
The primary operation of warp making in which ends with
drawn from a warping creel. Evenly spaced in sheet from are
wound on to a beam to substantial length.
Blazer Cloth
Traditionally an all wool woven fabric for the apparel in
either solid colours of strips that may be rilled that may be
knitted or razed.
Bleaching

The process for improving the white ness of textile
material with or with out removing of natural colouring matter
and/or entraneous substances waxes oil, dust.
Bleaching Agents
A chemically reagent capable of destroying partly or
completely nature colouring matter present in textile material
and having them white and or considerably lighter in colour.
Bleeding
Loss of dye or coloured material in contact with liquor
leading to coloration of liquid or of adjacent areas of the same
or other material.
Blending
A process designed to produced a thorough intermixing
of different cotton fiber characteristics.

Blinding
A marked and undesirable loss of luster of fiber coused
by in appropriate wet processing.
Blind stitch
A sewing stitch that is not visible on the face of fabric
or garment.
Block Creeling
The simultaneous representation group of supply
packages e.g replacement of cans on drawing or simplex m/c.
Patterns
Which reflects the shape and posture of human body the
function of garments and type of fabrics. It also indicates the
design of garments i.e. which are style features such as collers
cuff and pockets

Braking Strength
Maxi tensile force recorded in extended or tested piece
of breaking point.
Britch (Wool)
The wool around the tails and lower part of sheep ofter
heavily stained.
Bulked yarn
A yarns that have been treated physically or chemically
so as to have a noticeably greater apparent valume or bulk.
Bulky Yarn
A yarn that has a apparent density of the filaments is
much lower than its real density the yarn has a diameter
larger then the indicator by the count. In comparison yarn of
the similar fiber dye.
Bunch

The aggregate of pieces which is tied up with two or
more ties preparatory to baling.
Burk
1. A wool trade term for wool imperfections.
2. Small lot or lump in a fabric.
3. Small cellulosic on synthetic fiber impurities in fabric
to remove an imperfection.
Imperfection
1. Thin places -50%
2. Thick places +50%
3. Neps +200%
imperfection index is the sum of thin places, thick places
neps and yarns hairiness.
Micronaire
It is defined as thickness of fiber.
Breaking Load

The load that develops the breaking tension (q v) it is
correctly expressed in Newton’s.
Breaking Elongation
The elongation at the breaking load (q v).
Burl Dyeing
The coloration at low temp.
1. cellulose impurities in dyed wool fabric cotton loops in
union fabric which wool is dyed.
Burling
A hand process associated with mending which involve
taking out from back of fabric or slubs or minor imperfection
trying out thick threads of warp and weft.
Burry Wool
Wool charged with vegetable impurities picked up by the
fleece.

Breaking Length
The theoretical length of specimen usually of yarn whose
weight exert force sufficient to break specimen.
Breaking Machine
A Machine for continuously soften and stiff fabric,
fabric is drawn under tension of bars.
Button
A knob or disc which can be attached to the garments as
a mean of fashioning.
Button Hole
The hole in which button is passed to close.
Calendar
A machine in which heavy roller rotate in contact under
mechanical or hydraulic pressure. The roller may be unheated

or heated or one may be thick walled steel shell heated
internally.
All the rollers may rotates at the same surface speed or
one highly polished and heated rollers may rotate at a then
rest.
Cambric Fabric
A light wt closely woven plane fiber usually given a slight
stiffening.
Camel Hair Or Fiber
The fiber obtained from fleece of camel is Known as
camel
fiber.
Camel Lot
This type of fabric is produced from cotton and wool.
Canvas

1. Fabric usually made from or made up of cotton
flex hemp or jute in wt (wave) traditionally from 200 to
2000g/m2.
2. The weave is plain or double and plain.
3. yarn are used generally single.
4. The warp is very close packing.
5. This is very strong fabric.
Scouring
Treatment of textile material in aqueous or other
solution in order to removed of waxes fats and proteins and
other constituents as well as dirty oil and other impurities.
Cap Wool
South African wool Marino type
Cap Spinning

A spinning system in which the spindles support a
stationary cap. The lower edge of which guides the yarn on to
the revolving
Spinning packages
Carbon Fabric
A manufacturing fabric means a synthetic or man-made
fiber containing at least 90% of carbon.
Carbonizing
A chemical treatment of cellulosic matter in order to
facilitate its elimination and mixture with other fibers.
Card Clothing
A Material Comprising a base structure and wire pins or
spikes (for carding machine) or protruding from one face.
Carded Yarn

A yarn produced from fibers that have been carded but
not combed.
Carding
The disentanglement of fibers by working them between
two closely spaced relatively moving surfaces clothed with
pointed wire, pins, spikes or saw teeth.
Woolen Carding
The production of subbing from blending tufts of fibers
suit able for spinning the tufts are carded to produce an even
weft or blend loosed fibers which is divided into ribbon or
uniform.
Carpet
A tex floor covery having textile used surface form from
yarn of fiber.
Carrier
1. A moving holder for one yarn package.

2. A type of excellent particularly used in dyeing or
printing
3. A fiber component i.e. blended with a main constituent
fiber to improve process behavior.
4. A Positively driven smooth metal roller set between
major drafting.
Cashmere Fiber
Originally hair from the fine under coat film Asiatic goat
with dia of 18.5 microns. Similar hair from animals bread
selectively from the goat population of Aus, Newz, Scotland, is
regarded as cashmere provided die is similar.
Cationic Dye
A dye that dissociates in aqueous solution to give a
positive charge coloured ion.
Caustic Zing

Treatment of callulosic fabrics with caustic soda sol of
such conc and under such condition that a full mercerization
effect is not obtained but coloured yield in dyeing or printing
is significantly enhanced.
Cheese
A cylindrical package of yarns cross wound onto a
flangeless support.
Chlorination
When used with reference to textile processing a term
indicating the reaction of tex material with chlorine. Chlorine
may be in the form of gas or it solution (in water) or it may be
obtained form suitable compound.
Circular Knitting Machine
A Knitting machine in which the needles are set radically
or in parallel in one or more circular such as, sets/dial/beds.

Cloudiness
1. A defects in webs and sliver consisting of areas of
different densities.
2. In a dyed fabric a defect consisting of random faintly
define un even dyeing.
Cockled Yarn
1. Isolated loops of fibers protruding from yarn surface.
Fiber that have previously been stretched during processing.
2. Loose fiber in surplus fabric is also known as cocked yarn.
Colour Fastness
The property of resistance to named agency e.g. washing,
light rubbing, croaking, gas fumes on its standard scale 5 grade
are usually recognize from 5 significant no visible change to 1
subtract change for light fastness. 8grades are used 8
representing the highest degree of fastness.

Colour staining
If transfer of cotton from a textile to other textile with
which it is in contact usually in web or damped condition.
Combed yarn
Yarn produced from fibers that have been carded and
combed yarn.
Compact Spinning
A modifically ring spinning system in which the fiber
strand confirmed in a main drafting zone is compacted or
condensed.
Composite Yarn
A yarn composed both staple and continuous filaments
components e.g. coarse per yarn in denim fabric.
Condition
1. The moisture present in textiles.

2. To allow textile fabric to come hygroscopic equilibrium
with surrounding atmosphere or with standard atmosphere for
testing
3. To add selectively small quantities of (H2O) water to
textile material. (Raw material, yarn, sliver and fabric).
Cone
A conical support on which yarn is wound.
Cap
A type of yarn package spun on the wool spindle.
1. A ring
2. A small cylindrical plastic tube.
Core Yarn
A yarn consisting of a number of components yarns of
which or more are concentrate to lie permanently at central
axis of final thread.

e.g Sewing thread consisting of central synthetic
filament yarn surrounded by cotton fiber.
Cotton wool
A fibrous product used medical or cosmetic purposes
which is made form cotton fiber.
Cotton Spun
A Term applied to staple yarn produced on machinery
originally developed for processing cotton into yarn. There is
known as cotton spun.
Count
A number indicating the mass per unit length or length
per unit mass of yarns is called yarn count.
Course
i. A row of loops across the width of that the
fabric.
ii. Around the circumference of circular fabric.

Crimp
i. the waviness of fiber is called crimp.
ii. The waviness or distortion of a yarn that is due to
interlacing in fabric.
Crinoline
1. A stiff fabric.
2. A stiff fabric mode of cotton yarn or horse hair.
Cross Dyeing
A dyeing of one component of a mixture of the fibers
after at least one of others has been dyed already.
Cuff
The lower part of sleeve of garments and also the
corresponding part of trousers and gloves. It may be consist
of single turn in or turn up. Section of sleeve material usually
secured by stitching or it may be separate section some times
of different material attached to lower edge of sleeve.

Combing
Straightening and paralleling of fiber and removing short
fiber, Neps and impurities by using a comb or combs assisted
by brushes and rollers, and sometime by knives.
Dead Wool
Wool taken from sheep that have died from natural
causes.
Degreasing
The removal of grease suint and extraneous matter from
wool by an aqueous or solvent process.
Denier
The weight in gram of 9000 meter length of a filament or
yarn.
Denim

A traditionally 3 single warp-faced twill cloth made from
dyed warp yarn and undyed waft yarn. A typical cotton
construction was 3/1 twill weaves. 32.19.45:54 etc.
Tex
The direct decimal system based on metric units that has
been adopted by textile committee of the (I.S.O) as the
universal system for describing the linear density of fibers,
yarns, filaments, slivers and yarns, it also name given to the
combination of grams per kilometers.
Textiles
Originally a woven fabric, a term is now applied to any
manufacture from fibers. Filaments yarns natural or man made
obtained by interlacing.
e.g cords, threads, ropes braids embroidery lace, nets
and cloth by weaving knitting felting, bonding and tufting are
taxtiles.

Design
The creative process leading to structure patterns and
colour in the taxtile material implemented to achieved a
esthetic appeal function and cast target.
Dip
1. An immersion of relatively short duration of a textile
in liquid.
2. The depth of the liquor in the inner cylinder of a
rotary washing machine .
Direct Dye
An anionic dye having substantively for cellulosic fiber
when normally applied from an aqueous dye both. Containing an
electrolyte.

Disperse Dyes
A class of water insoluble dyes originally introduced for
dyeing cellulose acetate and usually applied from equeous
suspensions.
Doffer
A person who remove the full packages or material from a
textile machine used in yarn manufacturing.
Doffing
The removal of material or packages of textile material
from the textile machine.
Drafting
The process of attenuating laps sliver, slubbings and
roving to reduce or to decrease the mass per unit length.
Drawing
Operation by which slivers are blended (or doubled),
leveled, and by drafting (qv) reduce to the stage of roving. The

term is applied exclusively to processing at one machine
namely, the draw frame in cotton section of textile industry.
Drape
A ability of fabric to hand in graceful to fold.
Drill
A twill fabric of similar construction to a denim, but
usually piece dyed.
Dry Clean
To remove grease oil, and dirt from garments or fabric
by any organic solvent treating . suitable solvent are white
spirit trichlorethylene and perchlorethylene.
Duck
A term used in Scotland to described the degree of
bleaching.

Dye
A colorant that has substantively for a substrate, either
inherent or induced by reactants.
Elastic Recovery
The immediate change in elongation experienced by a
textile during the loading cycle when after being held at a
defined elongation for a defined time, the applied tension is
reduced to pre-tension value.
Elasticity
The property of the material by virtue of which its tends
to recovered its original size and shape immediately
deformation.
Elongation
The increase in length of a specimen during a tensile test,
expressed in units of length.

Embroidery
This is a method of decorating a fabric by stitching a
design on it with needle and thread.
Fancy Yarn
A yarn that differs from the normal construction of
single and folded yarns, by way of deliberately produced
irregularities relate to an increased delivery of one or more its
components. Or to the inclusion of periodic effects such as
knops, loops, curls, slubs.
Fabric
A manufacturing a assembly of fiber and oblique or yarns
that have been substantial surface area in reaction to its
thickness and sufficient corrosion to give assembly the useful
mechanical strength.
Slub Yarn

A yarns in which slubs are present as a fault. In some yarn
he slubs are produced as to make a fancy yarn.
Snarl Yarn
A compound yarn that displays snarls or kinks projecting
form the core.
Fiber Fineness
Fineness of fiber and manufactured fiber is usually
expressed in terms of average linear density. The fineness of
animal fibers is usually expressed as the mean fiber diameter.
Fibro Graph
A graph showing a particular form of length distribution
of sample of cotton fiber statically it is term representing the
2nd
integral of length intensity distribution.
25% this known as 2.5% S.L
50% this known as 50% S.L

S.L = span length
Floating Fiber Index
An indicating of %age of fiber not griped by either the
front or back roller of a drafting system. The index is called
F.F.I.
F.F.I= ⎥
⎦
⎤
⎢
⎣
⎡
−
−×
1
)075.%50(2
%5.2
x 100
Mean Length
Mean length of the fibers is sample of sliver or roving is
calculated of proportion of fineness of the fiber in sliver or
roving.
Span Length
The fiber extant which is exceeded by stated % age of
cotton fiber in sample determined via the fiber length
distribution obtained form instrument such as fibro graph,
HVI, AFIS.

Staple Length
The characteristics fiber length is sample of staple
fiber usually visual assessment for natural fibers.
Uniformity Index
A measure of length variation in sample of cotton fiber
determined by the length distribution obtained by instrument
such as fibro graph HVI. It is defined ratio of mean length and
upper half mean length expressed as %age.
UI =
lengthHalfmeanUpper
lengthMean
x 100
U.R
A measure of length variation in a sample of cotton fiber
Determined by the (fiber length distribution obtained) by
instrument such as fibro graph it is defined as ratio of 50%
span length to 2.5% span length expressed as a%age.
UR = 100
.%5.2
.%50
×
LS
LS

Finish
A process physical or chemical, applied to a substrate to
produce a desire effect smoothness, luster, glass, crease
resistance.
Filament
A fiber of indefinite length is called filament.
Fly
Waste fiber that is removed in during carding action and
fly off in atmosphere is called fly.
Finishing
Descriptive of processes. Physical or chemical applied to
a substrate to produce a desire effect.
Flat Knitting Machine
A welt-knitting machine having straight needle beds
carrying independently-operated latch needle.

Flat Yarn
An untexture multifilament yarn with a very low twist
sufficient folding only to maintain yarn coherence.
Flammability
The ability of a material or a product in a flame under
specified a test condition.
Friction Spinning
A method of open spinning which is used two surface
moving in opposite direction to insert twist into assembly
fibers a fiber position between them.
Gauge
A term is gives indication of no of needles per unit length
along the needle bed in current practice:
1. Yarn ct.
2. Needle /inch gauge.
3. coarse/inch of fiber.

High Valume Instruments
An integrated automatic system of cotton fiber
measurement of hardware soft ware and calibration procedure
for the rapid estimation for several fibers properties in the
single sample.
Hank
A textile material in coiled form.
Knit Wear
A term applied in the generic sense to all knitted outer
garments except stockings and socks pull over, jumpers
sweaters.
Hosiery
The knitted coverings for feet and legs, formally in U.K
Term was used in we generic sense. All types of knitted fabrics
and good made up there form.
Industrial Textile

Textile material and products and intended for end uses
other then none protective clothing house court. Furnishing
and floor covering.
Ingrain
Yarn spun from a mixture of fibers of different colours
where the mixing of coloured fibers is carried out at an early
stage.
Irish Lawn
A lawn fabric produced form fine linen yarn.
Jacquard Card
A punched card used to control a jacquard mechanism a
series of such cards strung together control the production of
required pattern.
Jean
A 2/1 single warp faced twill fabric used chiefly for
overalls casual where typical construction 35:24, 32 :21.

Jet Dyeing Machine
A machine for dyeing fabric in rope form in which the
fabric is carried through narrow trumpet by dye liquid
circulate at high velocity or a machine for garments dyeing in
which the garment of circulated by Jets liquid rather than by
mechanical means.
Jet Spinning
A system of staple fiber jet spinning which utilize and air
war tex. To apply the twisting during it formation. The air is
blown to one or more nozzle inclined with cylindrical yarn
passage.
Jigger
A dyeing machine in which in open width is transferred
repeatedly from one roller to another and passes each time
through a dye bath of relatively small volume jiggers are also
frequently used for scouring, bleaching and finishing.

Jute
The fiber obtained from the bast leyer of the plants.
Corchorous, capsularis and carchorus, olitorius.
Hemp
A coarse animal fiber with a wide lattice type medulla.
Which is shed form the skin at least once a year. It is often
shorter than fibers of the fleece has a long tip and when
completely shed, tapers sharply towards the root end.
Knitting M/C
A M/C for the production of fairies or garments by warp
knitting or welt loathing the different types of warp and weft
knitting m/c are classified and named primarily a cording to
1. The type of fabric or garments they are intended to
produce.
2. the type of needle used.

3. The format arrangement and activation of their needles or
needle beds.
4. The type of patterning cantering used.
These are few type of knitting M/C in textile circular knitting
M/C, cylinder lenillng machine, flat knitting M/C, garments
length knitting M/C, loop wheel knitting machine, (knit wear
M/C.)
Lawn
A faire plain women cloth of liner or cotton, mad in
various fine qualities to produce fine, sheer fabrics, various
finishes may be applied to fabric of this type, in which care
the cloth in lawn by the name of finish used e.g. organdie.
Lea
In cotton a length of 120 days is called
1. In cotton sense 120 yds.
2. In linlen 300 yds

3. In worsted 80 yds
Lint:
The main seed hair of cotton plant.
Linters.
Whole and broken lint fibers and fuzz fibers, which are
removed from the ginned cotton sad by a special ginning
process.
Loom
A M/C for producing cloth by the inter lacing of warp and
weft yarns OR a term for used for wearing
Luster
The also play of different intensities of light reflected
both secularly and diffusely from different parts of a surface
exposed to the same incident light. High luster is associated
with gross difference of this laird and empirical emircal

measurements of luster depend on the ratio of the internists
of reflected high for specified angle of incidence and viewing.
Matching
A process by which the amount of each color matter
present in a material is adjusted so that the final color
resembles that of a given sample as closely as passable.
A comparison of dyed sample of textiles of nominally the
same color.
Maturating
A cotton fibre characteristics which expresses the
relative degree of thickening of fibre were it is usually
estimated one of more several in direct lest which are ofter
used to discover having a maturity to some level.
1. Mature fibre is a fibre having a high degree of thickness.
2. Immature has a small degree of thickness
Madula

Portion of some animal fibre consisting of series of
cavities by the cell which collapse during growth growth
process.
Neppy yarn
A faulty yarn in which the incidence of nep occurs at
relatively high level to constitute a fault.
Mercerization
The lineament of cellulose textiles in yarn or fabric form
with concentrated sole of caustic alkali, where by the fibers
are swollen, the strength and dye affinity of material are
increased and their handle is modified.
Micro fibre
A fiber or filament of linear density below 1.0 d tex.
Micronaire value

A measure of cotton fibber quality which is an indication
of fiber specific surface micromere value is a function of both
fiber tanners and fibre maturing.
Model
A designated style in range of garments madein limited
number.
A designated sample garment.
Modeling
The direct parliament of fabric to stand or dummy or
body or manipulation or draping of a fabric to develop a design
as we can a garment.
Moisture content
The ratio mass of the mass moisture in a material to the
total moist mass. The ratio is usually expressed a percentage
an in calculated as follows. 100
Massmoist
MositDry-massmoist
×
Total
ToTal

Motes
There are two broad categories of motes.
a. Fuzzy motes. The largest of this type of motes consist of
whole aborted or immature seeds covered with fuzz fibers the
development of which cased at a very early stage. Small fuzzy
motes originate as still further in the opening cleaning and
carding process.
(A price of seed coat with fairly long lint fiber attached)
A value taken to represent the acidity or alkalinity of sol
and defined also grithen of the reciprocals of the H ions
concentration or concentrated in sol value.
Pilling
Small accumulations of fibers on the surface of a fabric
pill can develop during wear are held to the fabric by an
entanglement with the surface fibers of the material and are

usually composed of the same fibers as those from which the
fabric is made.
Mule Spinning:
A M/C of spinning in which action of formation of gavn
e.g. that is drafting and one operation and wending on ribcage
in one another operation.
Neps:
A small knot of entangled fibers.
Nails
The shorter fibers separated from the longer fiber in
combing during the preparatory process before spinning.
Pilling test:
A test to asses the propensity the pills to an or retain on
subjected to specified condition:

Polyamide
A synthetic linear polymer in which linkage of the simple
chemical compound of its amide groups.
Polyester
A condensation polymer in which the simple chemical
compounds used in its production (commonly polyhydric alcohols
and poly carboxylic acids) are joined together by ester
lineages.
Poplin
A plain weave cotton type fabric with weft way ribs and
high warp sett. 48:24 ends
16to18 reed

Pressing
A process involving heating under moist or dry conditions,
carried out to confer a desired shape or size on a stocking or
other knitted garments.
Tenacity
The maximum specific stress that is developed in a
tensiple test taken t rupture.
Printing
When coloring of textile is done under some condition of
limitation is call printing.
Rayon fiber
A rayon fiber consisting wholly or mainly of regenerated
cellulose.
Reactive dye
Dye that under satiable condition is capable of reacting
chemically which a substrate to form a covalent dye.

Regain
The ratio of the mass of moisture in a materal to the
oven. Dry mass. The ratio is usually expressed as percentage
and is calculated as follows.
x100
MassdryOven
massdryoven-massmoistTotal
Relative humidity
The ratio of actual pressure of the water vapor in the
atmosphere to the saturation pressure of water vapor at the
same temperature and some total pressure. The ration is
usually expressed as percentage.
Ring spinning
A continues system of spinning in cooperating ring and
traveler in which twist is inserted in to yarn on leaving the
delivery roller or Fr. Drafting roller. The yarns passes through

a guide. Arranged centrally about the top of ring spindle,
through a traveler on to a driven yarn package.
Roving
A name given individually or collectively to the relative,
fine fibrous strands used in the later or final processes of
preparation for spinning.
Silk
Protein filaments forming the cocoons produced by sub
worm.
Staring
Any adventitious (un wanted) color e.g. dye dirt, or iron
on textile material.
The fugitive or permanent coloring of material e.g. in
histology for identification.
Quality

Quality is something (standard) which meets the
requirement of the user or requirement of the customers is
known as quality.
Quality Control
Picking up different defective products or goods from
production line is called quality control.
Quality assurance
All those planned and systematic actions necessary to
provided add equality confidence that a produced or service
will satisfy given requirements of customer for quality.
Education
Education is define as changing in the behavior or person.
Total quality management

TQM Parameters are defined as the quality parameter
which we get to as quality level.

Chapter No 2
INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE BACK
GROUND
Seed Cotton
Cotton which has been harvested but not ginned so that
fibers is still attached to seed.
Types Of Cotton Harvesting Method
1. Hand Harvesting Method.
2. Spindle Harvesting Method.;
3. Strip Harvesting Method.
Hand Harvesting Method.
Most common method used for cotton harvesting
worldwide extensively.
Spindle Harvesting Mathod.

Most traditional method and the most common used in
the U.S.A spin, Greece, Israel and Australia.
A harvester passes two or three times over the same
Crop in one season. Seed varieties have a growth period of 150
to 160 days and the plant is taller.
Strip Harvesting Method
Practiced only in north texas, U.S.A. due to short
growing season. A harvester passes once over the Crop and
pulls all components, leaving the central stalk.
Seed varieties have a growth period of 120 days, and
plants are shorter due to the harshness and altitude of the
climate also, root systems are more extensive and plants are
resistant to adverse weather conditions.
Theoretical Ginning Efficiencies
Hand Harvested = 1200 Pounds seed cotton. Percentage
= 500 Pounds lint 41.66 %

= 600 Pounds seed 50%
= 100 Pounds Trash and Moisture 8.33%
Picker = 1700 Pounds seed cotton. Percentage
= 500 Pounds lint 29.41%
= 600 Pounds seed 35.29%
= 600 Pounds trash and Moisture 35.29%
Stripper = 2200 Pounds seed cotton.
= 500 Pounds lint 22.72%
= 600 Pounds seed 27.27%
= 1100 Pounds trash and Moisture 50%
Types of Seed Cotton Storage Systems
Following storage systems are of
1. Modules
2. Trailers
3. Ware House
4. Open stores (Go downs)

Modules
Most commonly used in the U.S.A. Israel and Australia.
Trailers
Most common system worldwide, becoming obsolete in the
U.S.A.
Ware House
Most common system in Europe.
Open Stores (Go downs)
Most common in developing countries with low rainfall. Go
downs also act as natural driers for seed cotton.

Chapter No 3
GINNING
Definition
A process in which fibers are separate from seed is
called ginning.
Small sticks, bast, broken balls, fuzze and immature
cotton are removed in this process to obtained good cotton
lints. Before ginning process, seed cotton is open turn by turn
by worker so that required moisture should be obtained for
good ginning process (5-8%).
Objectives of Ginning
1. Cleaning
2. Opening
3. Separation of seed
Types of Ginning

There are two types of Ginning
1. Roller ginning
2. Saw ginning
McCarthy Roller Ginning
It is used for processing long steple (s) and extremely
long staple (ELS) variations.
The CHURKA ROLLER gin was first developed in India in
the 17th
Century and was the first mechanical gin. The
reciprocating Knife roller Gin was developed in the U.S.A in
1840 and is still manufactured in Turkey, India and still
Pakistan. Present day models have capacities of 50 to 80
pounds of lint per hour.
Principle
It is used for long cottons, seen cotton is placed in hopper
or box and the feeder bar pushes it into contact with roller.
This rotting roller takes hold of fibers and tries to take then

along with it. This fixed knife prevents the seed from passing
forward, thus they are held against the bottom edges of the
knife. The feeder bar neo moves back wards. In so doing it
strips the seed from the fibers. The fibers passed through
the rollers and fall into a suitable receptacle. The spares in
the grid not wide enough to allow the seed to fall through until
the lent has been stripped off, there fore the partly delinted
seed will be continually pushed into contact with the roller, by
reciprocating feeder bar until all the long fibers are removed.
The output of this type of ginning is 100 Pounds for a machine
of 40 inches wide.
Saw Ginning
ELL Whitney in U.S.A invented. It for processing medium
staple. In this type of ginning circular saws 12 inches in
diameter are used these saws rotate at about 600 rpm and saw
teeth take hold of fibers and attempt to take seed cotton

through the grid. The space are too narrow for seeds to pass
through the grid consequently the fibers and pulled from
seeds. It includes a saw between the two saws there is one rib.
The thickness of rib is ¾ inch, the space b/w the roller is less
than size of seed cotton. One saw has 264 teeths. It is used
for processing medium staple and short staple. It was invented
by Ell Whitney in the U.S.A in 1790. The principle of operation
remains unchanged now a day saw gin capacities of 13-15 bales
per hours.
The seed cotton as it is known after harvesting is ginned
for three times but only the lint from the first ginning is used
in normal cotton spinning. The linters from the second and
third ginning are used in waste trade.
Faults in Ginning
1. Care must be take sot that the fires are not cut,
thereby producing short fibers this is caused by ginning damp

seed cotton and in advance countries driers are used to bring
the moisture content to about 8%.
2. If the saw blades of saw gin are run too fast, cut
may result. Too much short fibers reduce the spinning
properties of cotton.
3. Neps may be formed by ginning damp cotton, it is
due saw blades or by feeding an excessive amount of seed
cotton to the gin at one time these causes a lot of difficulties
during further processing.
4. If the seeds are crushed during the ginning thy
will become with lint and must be removed during cleaning
process in spinning mill. Because of the greater amount of
cleaning which must then taken place the lint has a lower value
to spinner.
GINNING INDUSTRY IN PAKISTAN

In Pakistan mostly saw ginning is used. Roller ginning
produce long fibers but it is very slow process. In foreign
countries roller ginning is used. Ginning industry in Pakistan is
not advance and there is need to improve the old methods. The
condition of Pakistan ginning industry is as fallow.
Breaking up of ginning units in Pakistan during 1998-2000
Gins of 80 saws 229 4%
Gins of 90 saws 3590 65.5%
Gins of 100 saws 1537 28%
Gins of 110 saws 132 2.5%
Comparison of Pakistan ginning industry with international
ginning.

International Local
Power consumption per ton 100 k.w.h 141 k.w.h
Lent production per hour 13500 kg 3952 kg
Average speed 1200r.p.m 500r.p.m
Trash in bails 4% 9%
Cotton ginning in Pakistan
Ginning period 90-100 days
Numbers of ginning factories 1221
Active ginning units 65%
Total industrial capacity 20 million bails
Average production of gins 2 bails per hour
Phutty required for 100 baits 52000kg
G.O.T.(Ginning out turn) 33%
Machine technology status 1950”S
Average seasonal production 5000-10000 bails

Textile industry economic condition
Export 60% of total exports (5.2 billions$)
Manufacturing 6% of total exports
Employment 38%
Gross demotic production (G.D.P) 8.5% of total G.D.P
Investment 31%
Market capitalization 12% of total market
Uses Of Different Ginning By Products
Lints
Lints are used as the purpose of raw material in textile
industries for producing the yarn and further fabric. These
are very strong longer than linters.
Linters
Linter are short fiber, fuzzy hair, fiber remain on the
surface of seed cotton. A second ginning process removes

Cotton linters. They are used manufacturing of rayon, Acetate
plastic, shatterproof glass, photographic film and other
purpose.
Hull
Out of side portion of the cotton seed are obtains after
the linters have been removed. They are used fertilizer in
manufacturing of paper plastic and cattle feed and as a base
for explosives.
Inner Seed
The seed is major part of cotton. It is used as cotton
seed ail, which is cocking oil and compounds and in
manufacturing of soap. The residue of inner seed becomes
cattle feed.

Chapter No 4
TEXTILE PRODUCTION FLOW CHART
1. Textile raw material Natural/Man-made
2. Yarn manufacturing spinning/open end
3. Fabric manufacturing weaving/knithing
4. Textile processing
5. Garment manufacturing
RAW MATERIAL
Raw material represents about 50-75% of the manufacturing
cost of a short staple spun yarn. This fact indicates the
significance of raw material of yarn producer. Different types
of fiber are used as raw material in textile industries, which
are classified as under:

TEXTILE FIBRES
A. Naturla Fibres (Vegetable fibre, Animal fiber, mineral
fibre)
B. Man made fibres (regenerated fibres, synthetic fibre)
Natural Fibres
1. Vegetable Fibres.
Bast Fibres (jute, Flax, Hemp, Ramie)
Leaf Fibres (Sisal, Manilla, Raffia, Abaca)
Seed Fibres (Cotton, Kapok, Bombax, Colr)
2. Animal Fibres
Filament Silk
Staple Fibre (Wool, Hair Fibre)
3. Mineral Fibres
Asbestos, Silver, Gold, Copper etc.

Synthetic Fibres
1. Nylon
2. Polyester (Teylene, Dacron, Tetron0
3. Acrylic
4. Poly urethanes
5. Poly olefins
6. Poly vinl derivatives
7. poly viyl chloride
8. Polystrene
9. Poly vinyl alcohol
10. Poly tetra flouro ethylene
11. Poly acrylonitrile
REGENERATED FIBRES
1. Casein Fibres
2. Ardil Fibres
3. Viscose rayon.

4. cupramonium rayon
5. Cellulose acetate.
6. Algenate, Rubber & Silica.
COTTON
Cotton is the most important textile fibre. It is backbone
of world textile trade. Some three quarter of textile fabrics
are made from cotton. Different varieties of cotton are use
nowadays, most popular of them are Australian, American,.
Afghani Egyptian & Pakistani cotton.
Properties of cotton and relation with spinnibilty
Major characteristics of cotton regarding its spinning are:
FIBRE LENGTH
Fibre length, perhaps, the most important character of
cotton. It influences the yarn characteristics as well as

process settings. Fibre length is measured in terms of staple
length, span length & effective length. Longer the fibres:
Higher will be the sinnibiliy
Higher will be the resultant yarn strength because longer
fibres exhibit more surface contact with each other thus
increasing yarn strength.
Higher will be the evenness because the uniformity in dia.
Of longer fibres is more.
Higher the production because less T.P.I is required to
give sufficient strength.
Low yarn hairness due to less number of fibres per unit
length of yarn.
Better will be the feel due to less T.M.
UNIFORMITY RATIO
It is defined as:
U.R% =
%5.2.
100%50.
LS
xLS

Lower uniformity ratio results in
Lower yarn evenness.
Higher yarn hairiness.
Following ratings are adopted for uniformity ratio:
Uniformity ratio Rating
Above 80 Uniform
76~80 Average
71~75 Slightly irregular
SHORT FIBRE %AGE
Generally short fibres are those having length shorter
than half of fibre staple length i.e less than 12.5 mm. These
are expressed as %n age of average staple length.
S.F % =
)075.0%50.(2
100)1%5.2.(
−
−
LSx
xLS
OR

)5.2%7.67.(3
100)975.0%5.2.(
%.
−==
−
=
LSLWhere
L
xLS
FS
Higher % age of short fibres will result in:
Lower spinning limit
Lower yarn strength
Less yarn luster.
Less yarn evenness.
More yarn hairiness.
Production losses due to higher end breakage & higher
T.P.I
Low selling rate due to inferior quality
FIBRE FINENESS
Fibre fineness sis one of most important characteristics
of cotton. The fineness determine how many fibres are
present in the cross section of yarn of given thickness.
Additional fibre in cross section provides not only a better are

needed minimum in the cross-section but there are usually over
hundred. Thus better fibre fineness results in:
Higher spinnibility
Better yarn strength
Better yarn evenness
Soft feel due to less T.M
Better quality and finer counts.
For cotton micronair is the estimation of fiber fineness. The
fineness scale is given below:
MIC. VALUE FINENESS
Upto 3.1 Very fine
3.1`3.9 Fine
4.0~4.9 Medium
5.0~5.9 Slightly coarse
Above 6 Coarse

FIBRE MATURITY
The cotton fibre consists of cell wall & lumen. The
maturity index depends upon the thickness of this cell wall.
Immature fibres have less strength & longitudinal stiffness,
resulting in:
Loss yarn strength.
Loss of production, due to poor yarn strength & breakage
in spinning department.
Variation in dye take up because fibre dye take depends
upon so immature fibres will absorb less dye & vice verca.
FIBRE STRENGTH
Strength is dominating characteristic of fibre. By
keeping the other parameters same, it seems that 50% of
total yarn strength depends on fibre strength. Single fibre
strength is measure in gram/tex & fibre bundle strength in
Lbs/inch known as pressley value. Grading can be carried out

in both cases because there is no direct relation between both
strengths.
Higher the fibre strength:
Higher will be the spinning limit of the cotton.
Higher yarn strengh.
Better luster due to less T.M
Better yanr touch due to less T.,M
Higher production due to less T.M
The relation between fibre tenacity & its bundle strength is
give below:
Tenacity (gm/text) = 5.36xp.I
Pressley (lbs./inch2
) = {(10.8116xP.I)-0.12}x100
Where
mginwtBreaking
lbsinloadbreaking
IP
.
. =
General grading of bundle strength & tenacity is as under:

PRESSLEY RATING
93 & above Excellent
87~92 Very strong
81~92 Very strong
81~86 Strong
75~80 Medium
70~74 Fair
Under 70 Weak
TENACITHY (gm/text) RATING
Upto 17 Very weak
18~21 Low weak
22~25 Average
26~25 Strong
30 & above Very strong

FIBRE ELONGATION
Elongation is specified as percentage of the starting
length. For different materials elongation is as follows:
Cotton 6~10%
Wool 25~45%
Polyester 15~20%
Higher fibre elongation will result in:
Less fibre damage in beating carding at different stages.
Less yarn breaking strength.
Better for weaving and knitting.
But there are also draw backs of more elongation. More
elongation make processing in spinning more difficult.
TRASH % AGE
In addition to useable fibres, cotton stock contains
foreign matter of various kinds:

Vegetable matter (Husk portions, Seed fragtments, Stem
fragments and Leaf fragments)
Mineral material (Earth, Sand, Ore, Dust, Coal Dust)
Other foreign matter such as metal fragments, cloth
fragment, packing material etc.
In Pakistani cotton it varies from 5~10% while foreign cotton
contains up to 3% trash only. The dirty cotton having more
trash demand heavy beating and cleaning actions, resulting in:
Fibre damage, that is loss of average fibre length.
Loss of fibre strength.
Ultimate lost of yarn strength.
Loss of yield %
Increase of IPI level fo yarn.
Contamination problem in the yarn.

MOISTURE % AGE
Standard moisture regain of cotton is 8.5% from
purchase and selling point of view. How ever for proper
opening, cleaning and drafting in blow room, carding and
subsequent processes more suitable moisture % age is adopted.
The amount of moisture required in department is very much
dependent upon the condition of the material in process, for
dryer cotton more moisture is needed and vice versa.
Recommended value of moisture in different department is as
under:
RECOMMENDED MOISTURE % (R%)
Mixing 7+0.5
Lap 5.5+0.5
Sliver 5+0.5
Roving 5.5+0.5
Ring 5+0.5

Winding 6+0.5
Packing 8 & above
Excess moisture % age will result in, improper opening, cleaning
and drafting causing higher imperfection level. On the other
hand, in case, lesser the moisture %age, there will be fibre
damage during beating, opening, cleaning and drafting, which
will result in yarn breakage, loss in yarn strength and
production will be reduced.

BLOW ROOM
Definition
It is the first department where we make the
foiundation of quality yarn. Blowroom is named because of the
use of air currents at various points it is initial stage and its
function are:
MAIN OBJECTS
The main objects of blow room are
1. Mixing/blending
2. Opening
3. Lap formation
1. Mixing
inter mixing of same fibre is called mixing.
2. Blending
A process designed to process a through inter mixing of
different bales, varieties of cotton. Different picking of

cotton, different area of cotton, different region of cotton
fibres which have different parameters. Different varieties
and different vales, different lots are blended together in the
blow room to get a homogenous mixing to avoid the different
faults of yarn which is produced in weaving department such as
shade, patta, barre etc.
Standard of micronaise value is upto 0.1 to 0.2 blending is
above to achieve the good yield and unfirom dy ability.
1. The blow room contributed only 5~10% to production
cat in the ring spinning mills.
2. less of raw material is big number or factor.
3. Blow room machines must eliminate foreign matter but
they can do. This only with the simultaneous elimination of
some of the good fibre.

1. Opening
Opening is the operation required, carried out to the
stage of flocks in the blow room and to. The stage of individual
fibres in the card flock weight can be reduced to about 0.1mg
in the blow room.
2. Cleaning
Blow room cannot eliminate all, or even almost all of the
foreign matter in the raw material. A blow room installation
removes approximately 40-70% of the impurities. The result is
dependent on the raw material, on the Mcs and on the
environment conditions.
(%)
100
WasteTotalAT
asWhere
x
AT
AFAT
CE
=
−
=
AF = good fibres eliminated (%)
e.g AT = 2.1% and Af= 0.65%

Best B/R line is ruter company.
%69.0100
1.2
65.01.2
=
−
= xCE
Rieter B/R line = 65-70% (Best0
Trust = 60%
Crosrol = 55%
1. The cleaning effect or each b/R M/C can certainly be
increased by appropriate adjustment. However improved
cleaning must be purchased at cast of high fibre loss in
addition to the stressing of the fibres, because every
elimination of foreign mater is accompanies by a simultaneous
elimination of good fibres.
The quantity of waste eliminated at a cleaning machine was
raised from 0.6% to 1.2% while the quantityt of foreign matter
eliminated increased by only 40% the quantity of fibres

eliminated increased by 240%. Normally, fibres represent
about 40-60% of blow room waste.
2. Blend. After this the different fibres are blended on
drawing frame to get a proper ratio (%age) of blended fibres
in the three stage of draining M/Cs (Breaker, inter and
finisher) like polyester and cotton, acrylic and cotton polyester
and viscose.
3. Even Feed of Material to the Card: Finally, the blow
room must ensure that raw material is evenly delivered to the
card. Previously. This was carried out by means of precisely
weighed laps from the scutcher, but automatic flock feeding
installation are increasingly being used while in the
introductory phase such installation were subjected to
problems regarding evenness of flock delivery, today they
generally operate well, or at last adequately.

Every M/Cs are electronically controlled even feeding from
blow room to card. (mixing/blending is made on the base of
following fibres characteristics such as:
1. Fibre length
2. colour
3. mcironaire value
4. bale by bale
5. Trash in cotton
Blending is done to achieve a good yeiled and uniform dye
ability of yarn.
MULTIPLE MIXER OR MULTI MIXER
The machine or multi mixer comprises several or
different (6-8) adjacent chute chambers in which the material
is blown from above through automatic damper.

The chutes are filled successively with material through
automatic damper and material is removed from all chutes
simultaneously or material is delivered from all chutes
simultaneously. This gives a good long term blend. Ejection of
flocks on to a collecting convyer is by take off and beating
rollers under the chutes. The filling height is held fairly
constant (never ending) by feelers. Machines are available with
filling heights of 2, 3 and 4 metals.
FORMATION OF LAP
The scutcher operates with only one perforated drum. A
compact lap forms on this drum in a single layer. Older
scutchers operate with two resforated drum arranged one
above other. These machines always form two lap layers which
are pressed against each other and which can peel apart.
1. Chute feed system is adjusted to electronical control
though pipe and is attached with hopper of card M/C

2. The card is the heart of spinning mill.
3. Higher carding rate would generate more neps in sliver
and ultimately in yarn and it will lead in low quality of the
sliver.
4. Fibre damage at card would reduced the yarn
strength.
5. Production rate of card M/C is about 100Kg/hour
CARDING
Definition
The blow room process opens the compressed bales of
cotton into small tufts of cotton and removes 75% of trash
present in the cotton the feirre to fibre opening and machine.
Thus carding very important machine the spinning process and
is called as heart of spinning.
< 10/9Nec production range 80 kg – 100kg/hr
16/s production range 65-70 kg/hr

40 production range 45-50 kg/hr
TASK OF CARDING M/C
Carding is very important in manufacturing of yarn to
other activity in the mill.
1. Opening of individual fibres.
2. Elimination of impurities. Mainly occurs in taker in
zone only small part of contaminants carried out with flat
stripping degree of cleaning of the modern carding is greater
then 95%.
3. Degree of cleaning blow room and carding is upto 99%.
Card sliver still contain 0.5-0.3% of contamination.
4. Elimination of Dust: in addition to free dust which can
be directly sucked in the blow room but more portion of card is
removed because of micro fibre or particles. That are bound to

fibres and those are removed due to fibre and matel or
fibre/fibre friction. Thus carding is a good dust removing
machine.

Disentanglement of Naps
Neps produced or increases in blow room. The card
reduces the remaining No of small friction. Cared eliminates
neps but actually card opened these entangled fibre.
Elimination of Short Fibre
Short fibres can easily only be eliminated. If they are
pressed in to clothing since that it is not possible with metallic
clothing. The ability to select short as opposed to long fibres
is based on the fact that long fibres is based on the fact that
long fibres have more contact with the clothing of main
cylinder of card then short fibres longer fibres are continually
caught and carried along by the main cylinder. Short fibres on
the other hand, offer less surface to the clothing of the main
cylinder. They therefore stay caught in the flats clothing,
press into it and leave the machine in the flat stripping.
Card Clothing or Metallic wire

These are continuous self supporting flat wire structure
in which teeth are cut at the smallest possible spacing by a
process resembling a punching operation. If the teeth are
relatively large, for example as in the taker-in, then the
clothing is referred to as same tooth clothing. The taker-in,
main cylinder and doffer are without exception clothed with
metallic clothing’s.
(Angle, density, distance between the wire point)
FIBRE BLENDING
The card improves long term blending since the residence
time of the material or fibre in the M/Cs in too short however,
it improves transverse blending because apart from the OE-
spinner the card is the only machine to process individual
fibres. In formation of the web and with repeated rotation of
the fibres on the main cylinder, intimate fibre with fibre
mixing is achieved.

FIBRE ORIENTATION
The card object is parrallelizing. This is not completely,
since the fibres in the web are not prallel, although they do
have, for the first time, a degree of longitudinal order a
parallel condition is achieved on the main cylinder, but it
disappears during formation of the web between the cylinder
and they doffer. Thus the card can be given the trash of
creating partial longitudinal orientation of fibres.
Sliver Formation
In order to be able to deposit the fibre material, to
transport it and process it further, an appropriate inter
mediate product must be formed. This is the sliver. In
extreme cases, card sliver has a lauk of 3 k tex or 6 k tex. The
product may be mad in sliver forms in a card sliver loose rope
form.

OPERATING PRINCIPLE
In modern installations.
1. Raw material is supplied via pipe ducting into feed
chute of the card.
2. An evenly compressed batt of about 500-900n k tex is
formed in the chute.
3. a transport roller forwards this material from the balt
to the feed arrangement. And
4. This consists of a feed roller and a feed er plate
designed to push sheet of fibre slowly in to the operating
range of taker-in.
5. While maintaining optimal clamping the portion of the
sheet proceeding from the feed roller must be combed
through and opened to flocks by taker-in.
6. These flocks are passed over grid equipment and
transferred to the main cylinder.

7. Suction ducts carry away the waste. The flocks
themselves are carried alongwith the main cylinder, paratrate
in to flat.
8. In moving past mote knives, grids, carding segments.
9. Material losses the greater part of its impurities.
10. And open up to individual fibres between these two
devices in the actual carding process. The flates comprises 80-
116 individual carding bars combined into a band moving on an
endless path some 40-45 of the flats are located in the
carding position relative to the main cylinder, the rest are on
the return run.
11. During this return, a cleaning unit strips fibres neps
and foreign matter are being removed from bals.
12. Fixed carding bars and are designed to assist the
operation of the card. The underside of the main cylinder is
enclosed by grids or cover plates.

13. After the carding operation has been completed. The
main cylinder carries along the fibres that are loose and lie
parallel with out looks, in this condition fibres do not form
transportable intermediate product.
14. An additional cylinder, the doffer is required for this
purpose, the doffer combines the fibres into wet because of
its substantially lower peripheral speed relative to the man
cylinder.
15. A stripping device drews the web from the doffer.
After calender.
16. Rollers have compressed the some extent .
17. the coiler deposit it is comes in the form of coiled
sliver.
MAJOR PARTS OF CARDING M/CS
There are some major parts of carding M/Cs as under.

1. Feed roll
2. Taker-in
3. Cylinder
4. Doffer
5. Coiler
6. Flats

TENDOM CARD
The name of Tendom card consist of two individual cards
jointed together to make up a unit, in which the doffer of the
first card feeds fibre material to the taker-in of the second
card. Double carding of raw material has a positive effect on
quality and on blending. However, these advantages are
purchased at the cost of expense in hardware and main balance
and additional space is required.
IRREGULARITY OF FEED MATERIAL
The card is the first machine to deliver a cohesive
intermediate product among other requirement, the product is
expected to be very even and as far as possible free of faults
irregularities in the sliver can be traced through into yarn, at
least in the spinning of carded yanrs that is they diminish yarn
quality.

CARD DETERMINE YARN QUALITY
A faulty free sliver cannot be obtained unless feed stock
is in an adequate condition. Since every irregularity in the feed
stock is transmitted completely in to the sliver in an alongated
form owing to the draft. The residence time of the material in
the machine is too short for a compensation effect. In
spinning, as in all other types of manufacturing process. The
rule must be that faults should not be corrected and hidden
but their occurrence should be prevented from the start.
AUTO LEVELER
A electronic automatic device that is fitted to back of
carding and drawing M/C which schamier observed the C.r or
S.D of feeding material and massage to drafting roller by mean
of change the speed of back drafting roller and to controlled
or to reduced the S.D or CV of linear jdensity of out put

material, the resultant is deliveried by that M/Cs linear
density if the necessary draft to compensation.
DRAFT
It is defined on, the measure of attenvation of material
with out breaking its continuity.
1. It is also defined as reduction of weight or mass/unit
length.
2. It is also defined as, increase in length per unit mass.
3. It is defined as reduce the dia of the feeding M/C
draft = weight of feed material/weight of deliver M/t
Weave Length
Variation produce which is introduced in fault is sliver
indicate 1 , 2m ut-4 (testing instrument is tested in the CM to
CM statistical dia of sliver base on the statistical data. Those
instrument gives us that fault which is introduce din the sliver

created also rough surfaces of trumpet can be created
irregularity in the sliver.
Feed Method
There are two method applied for feeding of raw
material to card M/C such as:
1. Lap or flock feeding
2. Chute feed system.
Chute Feed System
Chute is common feeding system used in carding section,
the central distributor apparatus in the flock feeder. The
server for gentle opening of raw material and continual
delivery into the ducting. Feed of flocks from blow room to
kirschner beating point is carried out by means of the suction
cage.
1. Feed chute and
2. Feed roller

As suction duct takes flocks away and delivers them to the
ring duct of the cards. Excess material is returned to the
distribution duct by way of the return duct, the second chute
and the leirschner beater. The flock feeder is followed by the
aerofeed installation itself.
Usually five to eight (5~8) cards are connected with one
feeding system depends upon the production required. The
cards are orientated in the longitudinal direction.
PARTS OF M/CS
1. Taker-In
This is a cast roller with a diameter usually around
250MM. A saw tooth clothing is applied to it. Beneath the
taker in there is an enclosure of grid elements or carding
segments.
The purpose of the taker-in is to pluck finely opened
flocks out of the feed batt, to lead them over the dirt

eliminating parts under the roller and then to deliver them to
the main cylinder. In high performance cards, rotational
speeds lie in the range 800-1500 pm (Mostly 700~100 Pm) for
cotton and 400-600 rpm for synthetics.
The material through put.
Two main object of taker-in are as under below.
1. Fibre opening
2. Elimination of waste.
Transfer to the main cylinder
Between the taker-in and main cylinder clothing are in
doffing disposition. It follows that the opening effect at this
position cannot be very strong. The effect depends on the
ratio of the speed of the two devices. According to the various
investigation. This ratio should be 1:2 tjat os the draft
betweem the taler-in and main cylinder should be lightly more
than 2.

Additional Carding Segment
Carding aid can be applied at three positions under taker-
in.
1. Between taker –in and flails
2. Between flat and doffer.
3. Cylinder and taker-in
The Cylinder
The cylinder is usually manufactured from castirion, lout
is now some times made of steel. Most cylinders have a
diameter of 1280-1300MM and rotate at the speed between
250 and 50 to 800 rpm.
The roundness tolerance must be maintained within
extremely tight limits. The narrowest setting distance
between cylinder and doffer is only about 0.1 MM.
Tye cylinder is generally supported in roller bearings.

FLATE
Together with the cylinder, the flats form the main
carding zone. Here the following effects should be achieved.
1. Opening of flocks to individual fibres.
2. Elimination of remain impurities.
3. Elimination of some of the short fibres.
4. Untangling neps (possible their elimination dust
removal)
High degree of longitudinal orientation of the fibres. In order
to fulfill all these requirements, a large continuous carding
surface is needed. The surface is created by a larg enumber of
individual clothing strips secured to the bars of the flates and
arrange in succession. 40-46 such strips commonly used (30 in
trutzschler machines) to make up the carding surface in the
operative position.

Since elimination can be carried out only by filling of the
clothing, the flats must be cleaned continuously. They must
their for be moved so as to be guided past a cleaning device.
The bars of the flats must be joined together to form an
endless, circulating band for which purpose they are fixed to
chains. In addition to the 40-+46 flats that are in operative
relationship to the cylinder, further flates are needed for the
return movement on the endless path. So that altogether 400-
1200 flats (so in trutzschler in fitted to chains.
Doffer
The cylinder is followed by the doffere which is designed
to take the individual fibre from the cylinder and condense
them to a web. The doffer is mostly formed as a cast iron
drum with diameter of about 600-707MM (500MM in crorrol
and rieter M/Cs). It is fitted with a metallic clothing and runs
at speed up to about 300MM/Min

Coiling in cans
The sliver must be coiled in cans for storage and
transport with large windings in smaller cans and small windings
in larger cans. Can diameter now lie in the range 600-120MM
and can hights are between 1000 and 1220MM. If the cans are
supplied directly to the rotor spinning M/Cs. They must be
smaller because of the lower amount of space available. The
can diameter in this case is only about 350 to 400MM.
The Drive
Conventional cards have only on drive motor. This drives
the taker-in and cylinder directly via belts and the other
moving parts indirectly via belt and gear transmissions. Modern
high performance cards differ in that they include several
drive so that the individual regions of the card are driven in
dependently of each other.
DRAWING FRAME

Drawing is; an operation by winch slivers are blended, doubled
or leveled and by drafting reduced to proper sized sliver
suitable of being fed to the simplex.
Draw frame contributes less than 5% to the production cost, of
yarn, however its influence on quality of yarn is significant. Draw
frame process considerably influences the final product, as
draw is last point of compensation for the elimination of
errors produced by subsequent m/c. the inadequacies in the
sliver leaving the draw frame pass in to the yarn and are
reinforced py the drafting after the draw frame that is why
yam can never be better in evenness than the sliver.
Tasks Of Pr A W Frame
Following are the main functions performed by the draw frame.
Improving evenness:
One of the main task of draw frame is to improve evenness;
over short medium and especially long term variations. card

sliver fed to; draw frame I has a degree of evenness that can
not be tolerated and it needs to before I any further; process,
thus draw frame improves its evenness.
Evenness is mainly improved by doubling of different
slivers and the modem draw frames by using Auto leveling
along with the doubling. The draft and the doubling have the
same vales usually.
Paralleiimtion:
To obtain optimum value for strength in the yarn
characteristics, the fiber must be arranged parallel in the
fibrous strand. the drawing process is responsibly for the
parallelization of the fibers along the sliver axis. The
paralleling! effect is due to the straightening of the zibers.
Blending:
In additioiji to improving evenness doubling also provides an
opportunity of mixing an it blending of the fibers. It is the first

stage at which we are able to blend different types of m/t. such
as cotton and polyester blends. At the draw frame the selection
of the no. of slivers and grains per yard of sliver entering in to
them/c can be easily carried out to obtain the required
blend
Rust removal
Dust removal can only be carried out to significant
degree when there are high levels of fiber to fiber and fiber
to metal friction, since large fraction of particles adheres
strongly to the fibers. In the draw frame due to inter fiber
friction and friction to the drafting rollers the dust can easily
be collected through the suction ducts. Modern draw frame is
equipped with the suction system which remove 85% of
incoming dust.
Important parts of draw frame and their functions
CREEL PORTING:

In the old draw frames the sliver were taken out of can simply
by the pulling action of (the drafting rollers, so there was the
chance of false drafting. While on the modern drawing frame
(his all has been discouraged by use of power creels. Each
sliver is taken out and guided to drafting zone with the help of
creel rollers.
ELEJCTRIC ROLLERS:
These are also called as assisting rollers. They have a plain
metallic surface and provide an easy passage to slivers towards
the main drafting zone.
DRAFTING ROLLERS:
For draft purpose we need a pair of drafting rollers,
comprising of top and bottom rollers.
Bottom q rafting rollers

These are steel made and are mounted in roller stand or in the
frame by means of the needle, roller or ball bearing. They are
+velly driven from the main geaf" transmission. In order to
improve their ability to carry the fibers along they are formed
with flutes.
Top drafting rollers: These are levelly driven by the bottom
rollers and also these are rubber; coated. I these rubber
coats are made of harder synthetic rubber and have a
certain degree of hardness. For proper drafting a pressure is
applied on top rollers. Also (here is suction arrangement on
each pair of drafting roller for removing! the dust.
TRUJMPET GUIDE:
Due to drafting the material is converted in to ribbon form,
having a web of 6-7 inches. This web is collected and
condensed to form a single sliver by means of trumpet guide.

The dia of trumpet guide is less as compared to card m/c coilef
trumpet guide and it can be changed according to requirement.
V CALENDER ROLLERS:
After transforming the web in to a circular sliver form it is
readily subjected to calendaring action for consolidation &
condensing. So projecting fibers are pressed towards the main
strand. The calendring rollers are provided with the flutes for
better control over the sliver.
SLIVER LENGTH MEASURING MOTION:
In order the get req. length of m/t in one can, you can set the
length on counter meter which is digital. One digit indicates
10 yards of sliver. The counting meter gets sensation from a
counting device, which are thin metallic strip, revolving and
crossing the light in each turn. It gets drive from the calendaring
rollers through a train of gears.

AIJTCJ) CAN CHANGER:
Modern high performance draw frames are usually fitted with
automatic can changer* When the counter meter reading is
achieved it means the cans hkve collected the req. length. At
this stage the main motor is stopped automatically and can-
changing motor is sensed to start. This drives |an endless
lattice upon which, beside full cans, empty cans are placed |
behind, comes exactly under the coiler. At this stage the can
changing motor is stopped by the limits on the lattice.
After of can iphange Stop motion for lapping around the calendar
ro ler. Motor the main motor is.again started.
the stoppage
STOP MOTIONS:
Stop mption for lapping around the drafting rollers.
Creels stop motion for sliver breakages.

Stop niotion for stopping the m/c if the sliver starts
gathering Stop motion for stoppages caused by the sliver choked
at coiler wheel top.
Combing
This process is design to removed short fibers.
Task of combing M/Cs
1) To remove the short fiber
2) To remove the neps
3) To remove remaining imprison
4) To produce cleanliness and more even yearn.
5) To increase strength, smoothers and leanness and usual
appearance.
6) Able to spin at low twist
7) To avoid spiraled in end.
8) Product micromere

9) Increase in level of penalization when the fiber intended for
fine yarn, the sliver is put through an additional operation, fine
tooth combs continue to straightening the fiber unit they are
arranged such high degree of parallelizing that short fiber
called noils are completely removed this process is man- made
staple because they are already cut into predetermined length.
Sine these fibers do not need springing they are process for
spinning in to yarn by direct spinning the combing process
forms a comb. Shiver which is made of longest fibers which is
result produces a smoother and more even yarn, this dominates
as much as 25% of original card slivers. 1/4 of raw cotton
becomes waste. It enhance 20% production cast. The combing
is carried according to customer requirements since long staple
yarm produces stronger and more even yarn.
Main parts of combing M/C
1. Cylinder

2. Top comb
3. Attaching & detaching roller
4. creel
5. Coiler head
ROVING FRAME
Sliver from the drawing frame are generally in hank for
immediate presentation to spinning frames for further
drafting and twisting in to the yarn. The untwisted strand of
fiber is hairy and tends to create fly. The needed to convert
this sliver in to yarn is in range of 200-500 the drafting
arrangement is available on current ring frame is not capable
of processing this strand in single drafting operating. A fine
twisted roving is significantly better suited for this purpose
another reason for using simplex is that the drawing frame

cans represents the worst conceivable mode of transport and
presentation of fed m/t ring frame.
TASKS OF ROVING FRAME
There are three main task of roving frame
Attenuation of sliver through the drafting process
To given strength to fiber strand through twisting
Winding of M/t for presentation of the ring section
Different Parts of Roving frame
1. Spindle
2. Flyer
3. Presser Arm
Drafting Mechanism
Drafting is based on the principle there should be
difference in the surface speeds of drafting rollers. I.e
Draft =
lleredofbackroSurfacespe
Surface rollerrorntofspeed

Drafting is given in the range of 5-20 on the roving
frame in order to reduce the load on ring frame because there
are limitations on the ring frame regarding the amount on ring
frame regarding the amount of draft to be given. Hence sliver
are given a draft to prepare for spinning frame draft. SKF 4/4
PK-1500 is the drafting system provided on the roving frame,
in which there are three drafting zones. First zone provides
the tension draft, second bread draft and third zone gives the
major draft according to the requirement.
Twist calculation:
TPI= TM HR×
Ring frame
From the dawn of the history of the production of the
yarn has been done with the help of spindle. During last two
centuries various types of spinning systems come and gone but
on one has been able to replace the ring spinning.

In the ring spinning frame the strand of fibers delivered
by font drafting rollers is twisted by using revolving traveler
on the ring track. This yarn delivered is then wound on the
bobbin.
The ring spinning system is widely used in world due to
following reasons:
It universally applicable i.e. any material can be spun
to any required fineness.
It delivers a yarn with optional characteristics
(especially regard to structure and strength).
It is uncomplicated and to manage.
The “Know How” for operation of the machine is well
established and assessable to every one.
Taks of ring frame
1. Drafting
2. Twisting

3. Package formation
Important part of frame
1. Ring 2.Traveler 3.Spindle and
bolster
4.Traveler clearer 4.Spacers 5.Aprons
6. Spindle tape
Draft is =
lleredofbackroSurfacespe
Surface rollerrorntofspeed
TPI = TM Ct×
Auto cone
Basic function of winding machine is the transfer of yarn
from a number relatively small ring bobbins on to a big wound
package suitable for transport further processing. The winding
machine also ensures the continuity of the yarn from these
packages be proper knotting or piecing. The 2nd
important
function of winding function of winding machine is the removal

of spinning faults, usually quite common in the ring common in
the ring bobbins, these faults include thick and thin places,
neps bad piecing, soft ends, loose lint and sloughing off, etc.
Packing

When the material is prepared in form of cones they are
taken to the packing room before the that they are checked in
the dark room under ultraviolet rays in order to differentiate
the smoky yarn and the goods quality yarn, if yarn is of good
quality i.e. given O.K. and is placed in the packing room, and is
placed there for 24 hours temperature is maintained as given
blow.
Dry temperature 92F
Wet temperature 88F
Moisture 8.2%
The following are the requirement of a packing department.
Very clean atmosphere
Required % age of humidity and temperature
Skilled labor for packing
A good quality packing material
Specification

1. Cone weigh 4.17 Ibs
No. of cone of in bag 24
Full bag weight 100 Lbs
2. Con weight 2.5 Lbs
No. of cone in bag 40
Full Bag weigh 100 Lbs

Yarn measurement & calculation
Count is defined as count number is inversely proportional
to the thickness of yearn.
Indirect system
Count:
No. of length units in a defined weight unit
One hank of yearn is equal to 840 dys.
Count= 33.8
graininass
ydin
×
M
lenght
Metric count
It is defined as the length unit is I kilometer and weigh
unit is I kilogramme there fore
Count =
Gmin
Metterin
Mass
Length
Direct system
Count is defined as mass per unit length

Denier
Mass in gms of 9000 meters length to continuous
filament of yarn.
Count = 9000
Meterin
Gm.
×
length
Mass
Tex
It is direct system, and number of gms. Which one
kilometer length of yarn weigh is its count. In tex.
Count = gKOrin tex1000
metterinlength
gmin
×
wt
Production data of yarn
Coarse count= 10-20/s
Medium 20-40/s
Fine 40/s above
Super fine 80-120 above 60/s

Warping section
Yarn packages prepared on winding machines in the
form of cheese or cone, they are placed on the back v type
creal or H type creel on to wooden peg, each end or garn is
then threaded through its own tensioning and electronic stop
motion device and passes through guide to the front of the
creel where they are brought together to form the warp
spaced by placing in to dents of an expanding comb or reed
before they are wound on a big double flanged bean known as
wrapper beam.
The capacity of creel at high speed warping (Beninger)
is generally for running 1248 cores (1400 to 600 ends).
High speed warping M/c operates at high speed from
900m/min to 1200/min the machine are provided with a power
fully and efficient brake which is automatic automatically put
in action as soon as the machine stopped by the action of

automatic thread stop motion it is for to get warp high
percentage of loom shed deficiently by removing the following
faults from yarns passing through (1) slough (2) time place (3)
less twist (4) slubs (5) bad piecing etc .
Tension on yarn passing through guide from creel is
set according to the required count.
Sizing section
Function of this process is to apply size on warp
thread at the ends of this process weaver beam in produced.
Sizing process is apply a protective film to the body of the
yarn. It protect yarn by various stresses strain and abrasion
resistance during weaving.
Objective of sizing
1. Sizing is done to increase the strength of warp yarn or
thread.
2. To maintain the elasticity of warp thread

3. Pliability or bend ed ability of warp thread
4. to improve the weave ability of warp thread.
Drawing in section
Function of this process is to pass the warp thread
through heald wire and seed according to required design.
Looming in
Function of this process is to load and fixed to drawn
in weaver beam on to loom and thread the warp sheet in such a
way that loom become ready for weaving.
Knotting
Function of this process is to tie or twist the threads
of exhausted beam to the threads of fresh beam,
Weaving
The interlacement of two group of thread lines at
right to teach other is called weaving.
Two thread bars or lines.

1. Warp
2. Weft
Looms motions
1. Primary Motions
2. Secondary motions
3. Auxiliary Motions
Primary Motion
These are very essentials for weaving and consist of.
i. Shedding Motion
This motion separates warp sheets into two groups so as the
make a gap for insertion of pick.
ii. Picking
This motion passes a weft thread through shed
iii. Beating
This motion pushed a newly inserted pick to the fill of cloth.
2. Secondary Motion

These motions are make the weaving process continuous.
i. Let off motion
The function of this motion is to unwind warp thread from
weaver bear in such a way that warp is presented to weaving
area under control tension.
ii. Take up motion
The function of this motion is to wind the woven cloth on to
cloth role a specified.
3.Auxiliary motion
This motion is consist of
i. Warp break stop motion
ii. Weft break stop motion
iii. Warp replenishing motion.
iv. Warp protector motion
v. Multiple shuttle box motion

Type of looms
Following M/cs are used to manufacturing woven fabric such as
i. Shuttle Looms
ii. Shuttle less looms
iii. Repier looms
iv. Projectile looms
v. Air jet looms
vi. Water jet looms
Knitting process
A technique for making fabric out of yarn by drawing
yarn loop through loops of the fabric
Walls: loop lines length wise in the fabric
Courses: loop lines width wise in the fabric
Basic weave

There are basic weave used to produce required design in
to the woven fabric such as
i. Plain weave
ii. Twill weave
iii. Satin weave
iv. Sateen weave
Designs are depend upon the tappet shedding dobby
shedding and jacquard motions there are present derivatives
of the above weave.
i. Tappet
ii. Dobby
iii. Jacquard
Plain weave
The unit of women fabric is the point of intersection of a
warp and a weft pick the inter lacing being of two possible
kinds, warp over weft , warp under weft, in either case the

interlocking is achieved by manipulation of the ends a number
of these interlacing combined together in both directions
produced a unit of design or one repeat of weave.
The simple weave which can constitute a cloth required,
two ends and two picks as a repeat of design is known as plain
weave.
8 8
Dent:

The unit of reed comprising a reed wire and a space
between adjacent wires.
Twill Weave
A weave that repeats on three or more ends and
produces diagonal lines on the face of the cloth.
Twill Weave
2/2 . 1/3 order

8 8
Drafting order
Drafting order is the arrangement (Order) of warp yarn
as they pass through heald wire of different heald shaft or
frame.
Twill 2/3
5 5
1
2
3 Drafting order
Design
4
5

Sateen twill weave
In sateen twill weave weft is prominent on face of the
face of the cloth
Satin twill weave
A fabric made in satin weave in satin twill design warp is
prominent on the face of fabric.
Tappet shedding
A plain design mechanism attached to a loom to control
the design according to the required design by using the head
shaft wire and heald frame.
Dobby shedding
A mechanism attached to a loom for controlling the
movement of the heald shafts. It is required when the number
of heald hafts or the number of picks in a repeat of pattern or
both are beyond the capacity of tappet shedding.

Jacquard mechanism
A shedding mechanism attached to a loom that given
individual control of up to several hundred warp threads and
this enables larger figured design to be produced.
Jacquard card
A punched card used to control a jacquard mechanism. A
series of such cards strong together control the production of
the required patterns.
Pirn winding
Function of this process is to wind weft yarn on pirn. Pirn
is a bobbin which fits in to shuttle box and supply weft yarn.
Grey cotton fabric
These fabric are produced from grey yarn which is
available in cone form.
Yarn dyed cotton fabric

Those type cloth which are made from dready dyed yarn
are called yarn dyeing cotton fabric.
Denim fabric
In denim fabric warp yarn is used as solid colored yarn
while weft is used as grey yarn.
Layout of grey cotton fabric
For warp
High speed warping→sizing → drawing in→ looming in→
knotting in → weaving
For weft
Pirn winding
Layout of yarn dyeing fabric
For warp
Yarn dyeing → sectional warping → sizing → drawing in →
looming in→ knotting → weaving

For weft
Mostly used for weft package are cone cheese and pirn winding
Lay our of denim (sheet dyeing type)
For warp
High speed warping→ warp sheet dyeing → sizing → drawing in
→looming in → knotting → weaving
Denim rope dyeing type
For warp
Ball warping → rope dyeing → rebeaming→ sizing → drawing in
→ looming in → knotting → weaving.

Chapter No 5
Textile chemistry
It is branch of industrial chemistry which deals with the
chemistry of coloring material and textile materials.
The general term used in textile industry for textile
chemistry is wet processing which refers to various pre-
treatment dyeing, printing and finishing techniques that import
value added enhancing to textile.
Wet processing
Wet processing consists of steps whose sketch diagram
is given.
Grey fabric → pre-treatment process→ dyeing & printing →
garments/made ups → finishing
Pre- treatment process
It consists of following steps.

1. Shearing and singeing
2. desizing
3. Scouring
4. Bleaching
5. Mercerization
Singeing
A burning process carried out to remove the projecting
fibers from cloth
Shearing
A cutting process carried out to remove the projective
fiber the cloth
Objective of singeing /shearing
1. Shearing off or burning off all fibers on the surface of
cloth.
2. To increase the reflection of light from cloth surface

3. To eliminate the unclear vision of fabric design
4. To reduce the pilling in case of blends
5. To improve the wear and end uses properties
6. To reduce difference of dyeing shade.
Machine used for singeing
1. Plate singeing Machines
2. Roller singeing machines
3. Gas singeing machines
Designing
A process carried out to remove the sighing material
for the cloth.
1. To eliminate the water repellent nature of sized cloth
2. To increase the absorbency
3. To reduce the consumption of chemicals in subsequent
process
Importance of desizing

The importance of desizing is mainly because of water
repellent nature of sizing material so it is important to remove
the size material before conducting any coloration or finishing
process.
Type of sizes
1. Water insoluble sizes
2. Limited water solubility sizes
3. Water soluble after pre-swelling sizes
4. Good water solution sizes.
Method of desizing
1. Hydrolytic Method
i. Rot steeping
ii. Acid steeping
iii. Enzyme steeping
2. Oxidative method
3. emulsifier method

Singeing Came Desizing Machine
Now a days, singeing come desizing machine in which
desizing and singeing is done on same cost as well as on the
same tome.
Scouring
Processes carried out to remove all imparities reaccept
coloring pigments.
Objective of scouring
Removal of soluble, mollifiable sizes and specifiable
methods; waxes, pectins, seeds and plant particles and make
the fabric ready for subsequent process ( Bleaching, Dyeing,
priting without any resistance)
Scouring agents:
The caustic soda is most commonly used as scouring
agent.
Machine used for scouring

1. Kier Method
2. J. Box Method
3. vapour Lock method
Bleaching
A processed carried out to remove color pigments from
cloth and to provide maximum whiteness.
Methods of bleaching
1. Batch methods
2. Semi continues Method
3. Continuous methods
Bleaching agents
1. (H2o2)
2. (Naclo2)
3. (Naocl)
4. (Caocl2)

Mercerization
A process carried to increase the absorbency and luster
of fabric.
Machine used for mercerization:
1. Chain Mercerization Machine
2. Chainless Mercerization machine
Dyeing process
The coloration of textile material in dyeing solution
The dyeing solution may contains:
1. Dye- stuff the are coloring materials
2. Water
3. Auxiliaries (Thee are helping compound that
increase the dyeing properties.
Stages of dyeing process
1. Preparation of dyeing solution
2. Actual dyeing (padding, drying, fixation)

3. Soaping & washing
4. Drying
Steps of dyeing process
1. Migration
2. Adsorption
3. Absorption
4. Diffusion
5. Fixation
Dye stuff classification
1. Dyes can be classified base on the four parameters
i. Base on chemical constitute
ii. Base on application or uses
2. Base on ionic structure
3. Base on solubility in water

Application of dyes:
1. Direct dyes
Direct dyes are used for natural cellulose like cotton and
regenerate cellulose like viscose rayon.
2. Reactive dyes:
Reactive dyes are applied on natural cellulose like cotton and
natural proteins like flax and also for man made fiber nylon.
3. Mordant dyes:
Mordant dyes are applied on natural proteins like wool and
man made fiber like modacrylic and nylon.
4. Sulphur dyes:
Sulphur dyes are applied on natural and regenerated
cellulose.
5. Acid dyes:
Acid dyes are applied on man made synthetic fibers like
nylon and natural proteins like, silk, wool and mohair etc.

6. Azoic dyes
Azoic dyes are applied on natural cellulose like cotton and
regenerated cellulose like viscose rayon
7. Vat Dyes
Vat dyes are applied on natural and regenerated cellulose at
about 100-120o
C
8. Basic dyes
Basic dyes are applied on synthetic fibers like acrylic and
monarchic and natural proteins like wool and silk.
9. Disperse dyes:
Disperse dyes are applied on man made fibers like polyester
which are hydrophobic nature
10. Pigment dyes:
Pigment dyes are applied on cellulose and man mode fibers.
These are used as binders for cellulose fibers.

Ionic structure
Ionic stricture includes following things.
Anionic nature:
In anionic nature following dyes include
a) Reactive Dyes
b) Direct dyes
c) Sulphar dyes
d) Acidic dyes
e) Azoic dyes
f) Mordant dyes
g) Vat dyes
Cationic nature
It includes following dyes
Basic dyes
None anionic or neural nature
These include following dyes.

a) Disperse dyes
b) Pigment dyes.
Soluble nature
In soluble nature reactive dyes, direct dyes, sulphur
dyes, acidic dyes, azoic dyes, mordant dyes , basic dyes are
included.
Unsoluble nature
In unsoluble nature disperse dyes, pigment dyes and vat
dyes are included.
General theory dyeing
Dyeing is a process of coloring textile materials by
immersing them in water solution of dye called dye liquor.
The general theory of dyeing explain, the dyeing process
is the interaction between dye, water, auxiliary electrolyte
dispersing agent, wetting agent and textile material.

More specifically, it can explain as following forces are
responsible for, dye molecules should leave the dye liquor,
enter & enter & attach to polymer of textile material:
Force of repulsion which develop between dye molecules
and water and force of attraction which develop between dye
molecules and textile material.
Dye liquor
1. Dye stuff
2. Water
3. Electrolyte (sodium chloride or sodium sulphate)
4. Heat
Dyeing methods
Batch method
Semi- continuous method
Continuous method

Dyeing machines for semi- continuos method
Fabric dyeing
Pad batch pad thermosol
Dyeing machines for continuous method
Fiber dyeing
1. Continuous fiber dyeing machine
Yarn dyeing machine
1. Salsher dyeing machine
2. Rope dyeing machine
Fabric dyeing
1. pad- Thermosol dyeing machine
Printing
Printing is differ from the dyeing in that way as it is
designed to produced multicolored pattern on textile material
by using prnting pasts, rather than a single color all over the
fabric.

Printing pasts
The printing paste is an emulsion of dye thickener and
hydrocarbon solvent and surface active agent. The uniform
consistency of the printing paste is referred to as it viscosity
the ease with which the paste flow the viscosity of the priting
paste is very important of the parttern.
Stages in printing process
1. Preparation of design block roller screen heat transfer
2. Preparation of printing paste
3. Actual printing making an impression of the paste on fabric
4. Drying of printing paste
5. Fixation as after treatments
6. Soaping & washing
7. Drying
Theory of printing

The printing paste which is applied to the textile material
consists of dye, water thinkers and hydrocarbons solvent.
After printing paste is applied the textile material is usually
steamed.
Steam enable the dye molecules to migrate from the
surface of the fibers and enter the fiber polysystem steaming
swells the fibers and ensures the better penetration of the
dye and improve color fastness properties of the textile
material.
Methods & machines of printing
Block or stencil printing
It is the oldest technique of printing in which wooden or
metallic block build up into a complete design over the fabric
area. Many separate blocks can be used for separate cooler.
In stencil priting pieces of marked pattern is cut out of
the paper or metal sheet, this stencil sheet is lid on the fabric

an colored past is brushed or sprayed over it, a separate
stencil can used for each color.
Wooden rubber metallic block.
Paper or metal stencils
Methods & machines of printing
Roller printing
Screen-printing
Different style of printing
Direct style
Discharge style
Resist style
Special styles
Finishing
Finishing is a process which performed by mechanical or
chemical treatments of fabric to eliminate undesired
properties of fabric and to add the value added effects.

Type of finishing process
Mechanical finishing process
When the finishing process is done by some mechanical
means.
Chemical finishing process
When the fabric is treated with some chemical
solution during finishing treatment.
Chemical finishes
1. Crease resistance wrinkle free resin finish
2. Soft finish
3. Water professing
4. Water repellent
5. Weighting finish
6. Anti bacterial finish
7. Flame proofing
8. Stiffening finish

9. anti static finish
10. sanforizing finish
Mechanical Finishes
1. Heat setting finish
2. Raising finish
3. Peaching
4. sanforizing
5. Calendaring finish
Undesired properties
1. Pilling
2. Creases
3. Stiffness
4. Water repellence
5. Shrinkage
6. Shrinkage

Value added effects
1. Luster
2. Soft handle
3. Fire proofing
4. Water proofing
5. Fragrance
6. Crease Resistance
7. Dimension Stability
8. Weighting
Purpose & importance of laboratory in a processing
unit
Main purpose
Economical importance
Roll of the lab
It can be vary based on following points:
Size of the processing plant

Nature of the material to be processed
Type of organization
Function of lab
Examine the dyes & auxiliaries
Selection of the dyes & auxiliaries for recipe
Recipe formulation
To develop most appropriate process sequence
Testing for process control
Regular checking of controlling instrument
Analysis & assessment
Dealing with customer complaints
Certain aspects of research & development
Reduction of production cost & increase profitability.

Textile terms and definitions

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