Download to read offline
More Related Content
Similar to Textiles PPT..Weaving,knitting,non-woven,wet process
Textiles PPT..Weaving,knitting,non-woven,wet process
- 1. FABRIC MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUES • Weaving •Knitting • Non- Woven • Wet processing
- 2.
- 3. DEFINITION OF KNITTING •Knitting is one way to convert thread or yarn in to fabric, called knit or knitted fabric. • Knitted fabric consists entirely of horizontal parallel courses of yarn. • Knitting can be done either by hand or by machine.
- 4. PROPERTIES KNITS WOVENS Movement,mobility& elasticity GoodPoor Recovery from wrinkling Good Poor Design & pattern changes Easy Time Consuming Insulation & warmth Poor Good Dimensional stability Poor Good COMPARISON BETWEEN KNITTING & WEAVING
- 5.
- 8.
- 9. • Vertical columnsof stitches in a knitted fabric are called wales. • Wales run lengthwise through the entire fabric WALE
- 10. • Horizontal rowsof stitches are called courses. • Courses run widthwise. COURSE
- 11. STITCH DENSITY • Itis a measurement of total number of needle loops in a sq. area . • Stitch density tends to be a more accurate measurement because tension acting in one direction in the fabric may, produce a low reading for the courser and a high reading for the wales, which multiplied together cancel the effect out. STITCH DENSITY = No. Of Courses X No. Of Wales
- 12. MACHINE GUAGE • Thenumber of needles linearly arranged in a specific measure of length. • Gauge is expressed in needles per inch . The finer the gauge of the machine , that is the more needles per inch, the finer or thinner the needles, the finer the yarn required for knitting , and the finer or thinner will be the knitted fabric produced. • Coarse gauge machines are used for knitting heavier fabrics.
- 13.
- 14.
- 15.
- 16.
- 17.
- 18.
- 19. NEEDLES •Needle is thebasic element of loop formation. •Two important functions of a needle Linking of new yarn loops with knitted loops, To carry the knitted loops during the early stage of the stitch formation cycle.
- 20. TYPES OF NEEDLES a)LATCH NEEDLE b) SPRING – BEARD NEEDLE c) COMPOUND NEEDLE
- 21. C) COMPOUND NEEDLE b)SPRING – BEARD NEEDLE a) LATCH NEEDLE
- 22. THE LATCH NEEDLE •Latch needle reduces the stroke • It offers a wider sampling potential • Better quality of the fabric
- 23. Latch needleis used to make the heavier and coarser knitted fabrics e.g Raschel , circular , flat, hosiery , milanse etc. Drawback Higher costs Complicated operating technology
- 24. SPRING – BEARDNEEDLE
- 25. SPRING – BEARDNEEDLE • In spring –beard needles hook is closed by an external device, the presser,which, at specific time during the stitch formation, comes in contact with it & makes it bend and close . • When the presser is pulled away , the hook springs back and opens the needle automatically.
- 26. • Spring –beardneedle is used to make finer knitted fabrics of high gauge, Women’s stockings and lingerie fabrics Tricot, fully fashioned garments
- 27. COMPOUND NEEDLE • Compoundneedle includes a sliding closing element, which opens & closes the hook through its upward &downward motion.
- 28. TYPES OF KNITTING •WARP KNITTING • WEFT KNITTING
- 29. WARP KNITTING • Warpknitting is the fastest method of producing fabrics • Each needle loops its own thread. • It’s a flat knitting process with one or more sets of yarns that run vertically & parallel to each other.
- 30. • Needles produceparallel rows of loops , that are interlocked in a zig-zag manner • Warp knitted fabrics are flat, has straight side edges. • Warp knits are classified according to the type of equipment used, these are Tricot, Raschel, Milanese, and Simplex. • Two most common types of warp knitting machines are Tricot & Raschel.
- 31. RASCHEL KNIT Pillar or chain stitches In– laid yarn • They split or come apart lengthwise when the in-laid yarn is removed. • Latch and compound needles are used. • These include nets (meshes) , laces, • Columns of loops are connected by in-laid yarns traversing from column to column up the fabrics. elasticized fabrics and bands etc.
- 32. • Tricot knithas fine Wales on the right side • Crosswise ribs on the back. • One-bar tricot has one set of warp yarns forming all the loops. • The greatest quality of tricot produced is two-bar. TRICOT KNIT • Highly controlled manufacturing processes • Tricot knits are used for underwear, nightwear, & lingerie, followed by dresses, blouses and then outer wear.
- 33. • Filament ortextured- filament yarns are used Exceptionally uniform in diameter High quality to knit efficiently with the high gauge & very high speeds of the tricot machine. • High degree of consistency in Appearance Stitches per unit length, etc. Have clear and uniform stitch definition.
- 34. Comparison of Tricot& Raschel Knit Fabrics TRICOT RASCHEL Machiner y Spring beard & compound needles Two to four guide bars Latch & compound needle Fine to coarse gauge Four to fifty six guide bars Yarn Utilized Fine denier filament & textured Spun & filaments All counts & denier Design Potential Simple design & small geometric Large & intricate designs but not as versatile as weaving . Typical Fabric End Lingerie, Sleep Wear , Bonded Fabric,skirts & Blouses,dress Fabrics,suiting & Sport Wear ,Upholstery,specialties. Laces & Lace Trims,nets,dress Material,sweater Fabrics,suiting & Coats , Thermal Knits , Blankets, Carpets, Tennis Nets.
- 35. MILANESE KNITS •A specialtype of warp knit •Fine fabric made from filament yarns •Fine rib like structure on the face. •Very limited production, largely replaced by Tricot •Stable fabric •Excellent drability •High tear strength
- 36. SIMPLEX KNITS •A specialtype of tricot fabric •Fabric is denser & thicker than regular tricot •Used primarily for ladies gloves. •Good elastic recovery, abrasion resistance.
- 37. WEFT KNITTING •This isa flat or circular knitting process that places one yarn at a time to form loops running across the fabric. •Finished garments can also be produced. •They are classified according to the m/c or the stitch such as plain,jersey,purl & rib with interlock or jacquard variation. •Finished garments or lengths of fabrics for clothing or upholstery can be produced
- 38. In weftknitting machine, latch needles slide freely in the slots ("tricks") of the needles bed Individual selection and control of the needles, whether arranged in straight or circular beds, enable some weft knitting machines if required, to knit garment sequences and integrally shaped garments. There are also large-diameter circular weft knitting machines which knit single and double jersey fabrics.
- 39. • Flatbed machinesknit full garments & operate at much slower speed • Needles arranged on horizontal or flat needle beds. FLATBED MACHINES • Latch needle is used.
- 40. CIRCULAR KNIT MACHINES •Allover the world, the majority of knit fabrics are manufactured on circular knitting machines. •The high performance level of these machines, the different materials and the range of yarn counts that they are able to process, the wide variety of designs and stitches
- 41. • On thecircular machine, the yarn runs horizontally and continuously in the same direction -in contrast to the flat bed m/c, where the yarn changes direction with each course. • The yarn is knitted around and around, • Very high rates of production.
- 42. The fabricis a seamless tube of material. The variety of knit fabrics that can be manufactured with these machines can meet the needs of a very large end user market; from the traditional outwear and underwear sectors to hosiery, household and car interiors, without forgetting technical textile applications.
- 43. SINGLE JERSEY ORSINKER BODY Back Face •All the component of knitted loops are of the same sort and meshed in the same manner •Wales show on the face side and courses show on the back of the fabric. •The fabric tends to curl at the edges.
- 44. • Jersey-knit fabricsstretch approximately equally in both the length and width directions. • One shortcoming of jersey-knit fabrics is that if one yarn breaks, it causes an unraveling of adjoining stitches, called a "run".
- 45. RIB KNIT FABRIC •Backand face loops are apparent. •Two sets of needles worked in between each other so that Wales of face stitches and Wales of reverse stitches are knitted on each side of the fabric. •The simplest rib fabric is the 1x1 (one by one or one and one). Alternating Wales of back forms this and face loops.
- 46. Rib single-knitsare noted for their excellent crosswise elongation and recovery and they do not curl like jersey knits.
- 47. INTERLOCK KNITS • Itsproduced by using both long & short needles • It has smooth surface on both the sides. • Horizontal and vertical strips can be knitted by using yarns of different colours
- 48. •Interlock fabric isextremely soft, firm, extensible & absorbent. •Technical face of plain fabric on both sides •Cannot be stretched out to reveal the reverse meshed loop wale because the wale on each side are exactly opposite to each other and are locked together.
- 49. PURL KNIT •They aremade with alternate courses of knit stitches and purl stitches on both sides of the fabric. •In purl-knit fabrics, each wale contains both knit stitches and purl stitches whereas in rib-knits, each wale contains either knit or purl stitches. •Purl fabrics look the same on both sides of the fabric, they both appear somewhat like the back of a jersey. •Purl fabric is highly extensible in all directions.
- 50. COMPARISION JERSEY RIB PURL Definiteface & back May be reversible May be reversible Stretches equally in length & width Greater stretch in width Greater stretch in width Highest machine productivity Next Highest machine productivity Lowest machine productivity USES Hosiery, t-shirt, sweaters, knit terry Collars,cuffs& trims Infants wear,fancy sweaters,fancy garment FABRIC RECOGNISATION Knit st. on one side,purl st.on reverse Wales predominate on face & back;knit st. only on same wale Course predominate on face & back; knit & purl st. in same wale.
- 51. COMPARISON BETWEEN WARP KNITTING& WEFT KNITTING WARP KNITTING WEFT KNITTING Each needle requires one separate yarn Only one cone is sufficient to knit the fabric Yarn path is either vertical or horizontal Yarn path is only in horizontal direction Change in patterning does not effect the speed of the machine Change in patterning effects the speed of the machine
- 52. PROPERTIES WARP KNITTING WEFT KNITTING Stitch Variation andcombination Unlimited Limited Special Attachment for Pattern Work Not Required Required Quality Consistent & Uniform More Springy Stretch ability More stretchable in widthwise direction. Both widthwise & lengthwise direction
- 53. PROPERTIES WARP KNITTING WEFT KNITTING Dimensional stability MoreLess Type of production Only a sheet type fabric Semi complete garment Space requirement Large Less Cost Higher Lower