Traditional embroidery of india

Presented by-
Anita singh
Assistant professor
Home science department
Crd pg college gorakhpur

Embroidery:
Embroidery is the art of using stitches as a
decorative feature in their own right by
embellishing fabric or other material with
design stitches in strands of threads or yarns
using a needle embroidery may also incorporate
other material such as metal stripes, pearls,
beads, quilts and sequins.

Various types of INDIAN embroidery contains
different aspects of regional specialty like-
 Phulkari embroidery
 Kantha embroidery
 Chikankari embroidery
 Kashida embroidery

 Originated from Punjab.
 The word Phulkari comes from two sanskrit
word, ‘Phul’ which means flower and ‘Kari’
which means work.
 Phulkari, which literally translates into
‘flower work’, has a history etched in the
culture of Punjab. Spun from the charkha
this spectacular style of embroidery is
patterned on odinis, shawls, kurtis
and chunris.
 Work is done on white or yellow silk floss on
cotton “Khaddar” with Darning stitch.

 The thread that is used for the embroidery is
called “untwisted thread” (pat in Punjabi).it is
untwisted floss silk yarn. The thread is glossy
and adds a brilliant shine to the finished work.
 Yellow, white, green, red and orange were the
thread colours that were traditionally used.

 Traditional Phulkari embroidery was done on
coarse cotton fabric called Khaddar which is
manually spun and naturally dyed.
 Khaddar could be of four colours, white being
given to mature women or widows while red was
associated with youth, black and blue colours
were kept for everyday worn shawls.

 Darning stitch is the most important stitch
used in this embroidery.
 Some other stitches like herringbone stitch,
running stitch, buttonhole stitch are used for
other decorations.
 Designs are usually embroidered from the
back of the cloth.

 The motifs made in Phulkari of horizontal,
vertical and diagonal to make various patterns
on the fabric.
 Although Phulkari means flower work, the
designs include not only flowers but also cover
motifs and geometrical shapes.

 Kantha, a type of embroidery quilt in West
Bengal.
 The use of Kantha is popular in Kantha saree
traditionally worn by women in bengal.
 It is done by rural women in Bengal typically
use discarded saries, dhoties and cloth and
layer them with stitches to make a quilt,
light blanket shawls, or bed sheets.

 The threads used for embroidery for usually
White, Red, Green, Yellow, Black and Blues in
colour.
 Cotton threads are usually used for
embroidery .

 Fabric on which the kantha is done are
usually the old fabrics that are already
underwent various washing.

 Stitches used in Knatha embroidery are
running stitch, darning stitch, satin and loop
stitch.
 In Kantha stem stitch is also used to outline
the motifs.

 Motifs used in Kantha embroidery are human and
animal figures, floral symbols which covers the
surface from the corner.
 The center motifs used are lotous.
 Different patterns like fishes, birds, mythological
stories also figured.

 Chikankari is the delicate art of embroidery
traditionally practiced in Lucknow.
 It was traditionally done on Cotton fabric,
with the design marked with wooden blocks
in removable colours.
 The embroidery is usually done on white
fabric using white thread.

 Earlier Kaccha Dhagga(raw thread) was used.
 This has been replaced with lachchis, which
are of better quality and are available in all
colours.
 Cotton thread is traditionally used to create
the design patterns over the cloths.

 The fabric on which Chikankari is done is
usually fine Cotton, through blended fabrics
like georgette are also been used since fine
cotton is too fragile and does not last long.
 Types of fabrics like cotton, silk, chiffon,
crepe, georgette are used to do the
embroidery work.

 Bakhia- This is a very similar to the
herringbone stitch done on backside
of the fabric and in the front side
shadow effect produced.
 Tepchi- It is the running stitch worked
on the right side of the fabric.
 Murri- They are french knot and are
rice shaped.
 Jali- it produced the jali effect on the
fabric.
 Phanda- same as murri but the basic
difference between murri and phanda
is that murri is the rice shaped design
while a phanda is millet shaped.

 The most common motifs used in this
embroidery is that flowers and paisley, these
motifs depict the story of nature.

 It also known as kasida, is one of the oldest
forms of embroidery that originated in
jammu and kashmir.
 This embroidey id used on warmer fabrics
such as silk, wool and as well as home decore
items such as rugs, cushion civers and bed
sheets etc.

 Commonly used threads are- wool thread, silk
thread and cotton thread, yarn of synthetic
fiber.
wool silk cotton
 This embroidery is done with multicoloured
thread.

 Commonly used fabrics are-
Silk Wool Cotton
 Colourful fabrics like white, green, purple,
blue, yellow and black are used in this
embroidery.

 This embroidery used with single thread.
 The stitches are used in this embroidery is-
satin stitch
chain stitch
stem stitch
herringbone stitch
darning stitch

 The motifs used are mainly birds, trees,
flowers, fruits etc.
 Majority of motifs are inspired by the nature.

 Singh Dr. Brinda. Clothing and textile,
panchsil prakasan jaipur, 2012.
 Trueman’s. Home science, danika publishing
company new delhi, 2010.

Traditional embroidery of india

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