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Row Covers & Gardens; Gardening Guidebook for Rockingham County, New Hampshire
The document outlines a Master Gardener Workshop series focusing on container and raised bed gardening, offering guidance on planning, planting, and maintaining gardens. It covers essential topics such as choosing the right containers, plant types suitable for various container sizes, soil requirements, and the benefits of raised beds for improved yield and accessibility. The document also emphasizes the importance of planning and research to ensure garden success.
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Row Covers & Gardens; Gardening Guidebook for Rockingham County, New Hampshire
- 1. Containers & Raised Beds MasterGardener Workshop Series Edited by Ron Christie, Agricultural Resources, Rockingham County UNH Cooperative Extension www.extension.unh.edu A Great Way to Garden MASTER GARDENER WORKSHOP SERIES
- 2. What we willreview today Planning Your Garden, Container Gardening, What to Plant, Soil, Food and Water, Raised Bed Gardening, Growing Things Upward, Purchasing Plants and Seeds.
- 3. Growing Things isin our Genes Humans have been farming since at least 7000 BC, Most of us can trace our ancestors back to some form of agriculture, A hundred years ago even city folk had a small patch of flowers, vegetables or herbs, Everyone has a Green Thumb!
- 4. What do youwant? One flower! Two tomato plants! A small garden! Define your goals but know your limits (physical, mental, time). Check with your homeowners association. Planning your garden…
- 5. Planning Your Garden: Sun, Wind, Slope, Structures, Microclimate, Water flow, East, west, north, south. Define Your Environment
- 6. Planning Your Garden: Themore you plan the easier your effort will be and the more success you will have. Define your growing space, Locate a water source, Create a work area, Create a waste area, Develop a maintenance schedule. Draw up a Plan
- 7. Planning Your Garden: Goon the Net or to the library and find out: What your plants need (soil, sun, food, water), What kind of bugs like to munch on your plants, What diseases can weaken or kill your plants, Even if you are growing just one flower, find out all you can. Do Some Research
- 8. Planning Your Garden: Makea list of what you need: Containers, potting soil, plant food, seeds or plants, and tools, Purchase your items, Get to work (but take your time). Time for some Fun
- 9. Container gardening isthe process of growing plants in containers above ground and has been practiced for thousands of years.
- 10. Container gardening isdifferent than growing plants in the ground. The environment is more harsh for plants in containers: Greater heat and cold fluctuation, Less water holding capacity, Limited root space, So container gardening is less forgiving of mistakes!
- 11. Advantages of Container Gardening: Youget to control the environment, Fit into smaller spaces, Easier for those with physical limitations, No digging or hoeing and little weeding, You can extend your growing season, Animals are less likely to get to your plants, Locate your garden close to your home.
- 12. Almost Anything CanBe A Container
- 13. Containers All containers needdrainage, Dark containers and metal containers heat up and dry out faster, Match container to mature plant size and root depth, Any pot made of clay or earthen material will dry out more quickly, Container needs to hold one days worth of water.
- 14. What to Plant? Youcan plant just about anything if you have a big or deep enough container. Tap rooted crops (carrot, parsnip, etc.) may be a problem. Corn needs lots of space and lots of stalks for pollination.
- 15. Plant Root DepthDetermines Container Size Shallow Rooted Vegetables – 12” x12” Container Arugula 12-18” Bok Choy 12-36” Cabbage 12-18” Fennel 12-18” Garlic 12-18” Jerusalem Artichoke* 12-18” Kale 12-18” Kohlrabi 12-18” Lettuce 12-18” Mache 3-6” Mustard greens 12-18” New Zealand spinach 10-24” Onion 8-12” Radish 5-8” Spinach 12-18” Strawberry 12-18” Summer Squash 12-18+” *Can be invasive.
- 16. Plant Root DepthDetermines Container Size Medium Rooted Vegetables – 18” x 24” Container Broccoli 18-36” Brussels sprouts 18-36” Cauliflower 18-36” Celery 18-36” Collards 18-24” Corn 18-36” Leek 18-36” Napa cabbage 18-36” Peas 24-48” Peppers 24-48” Beans 24-36” Beets 18-36” Chard 18-24” Chiles 18-48” Cucumber 12-24+” Potato 18-24” Rutabaga 24-36” Turnip 18-24” Winter Squash 12-24+”
- 17. Plant Root DepthDetermines Container Size Deep Rooted Vegetables – 24” x 36” Container Carrots 36-48”+ Eggplant 36-48” Fava Bean 36-48” Artichoke 48”+ Asparagus 6-8’ Parsnip 48”+ Rhubarb 36-48+” Tomato 18-48”+
- 18. Plant Root DepthDetermines Container Size Most Herbs fit in a 12” x12” Container Basil S 8-12” Annual Chive* S 3-6” Perennial Divide every 3 yrs. Cilantro S 8-18” Annual Mint* S 12-18” Perennial Plant in a pot Oregano* S 6-18” Perennial Parsley S 8-12” Biennial/annual Rosemary S/M 12-24” Perennial Sage M 24-36” Perennial Sum. Savory S 8-12” Annual Tarragon S 6-10” Perennial Divide every 3 yrs. Thyme S 6-10” Perennial *Can be invasive.
- 19. Soil for Containers Soillesspotting mixes are: Lightweight and hold water and oxygen much better than garden soil, Free of weeds and diseases, May even contain slow-release fertilizer. Containers require a soilless mix. Regular garden soil will compact in a container.
- 20. Food and Water Youneed to remember that: Plant roots can’t grow deep or spread out in containers, Nutrients get washed out with frequent watering, Water evaporates more quickly from above ground containers, So, you will need to regularly feed and water your plants.
- 21. Food and Water Foodfor your plants Water soluble fertilizer, Every two weeks or as directed, Fish emulsion is a great choice (it may be stinky), Scorched leaves may be a sign of too much fertilizer.
- 22. Food and Water Wateringyour plants: Check plants daily, Water when top two inches are dry, Water slowly until water comes out of bottom, Try not to wet leaves, Water early in the day, Be aware of chlorine in your water, Group pots together.
- 23. Raised Beds AreJust… …Really Big Containers
- 24. The Benefits ofRaised Beds Higher yields and less area to weed – Can increases yields as much as five-fold over the traditional row- path-row garden layout. Reduced soil compaction – Established walkways to keep foot traffic off planting area. Earlier planting – Facilitates better runoff and drainage, allowing soil to warm faster in the spring. Beds can be covered with plastic during spring rains, allowing for early planting even in rainy years. Frost protection – Easier to cover for spring and fall frost protection. They can also be shaded in the hot summer.
- 25. Soil improvement –Presents a clearly defined area where you can concentrate on soil improvement techniques. In situations where the soil is poor or shallow, good planting soil may be added to the box. Architectural interest – Raised beds become an architectural feature of the landscape design. Accessible Gardening – Raised beds are ideal for enabling persons with limited mobility to garden. Reduced soil erosion – Keeps soil in the bed and from washing away. The Benefits of Raised Beds
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- 27. Constructing a RaisedBed A bed can be any width, just remember you (or your spouse/partner) need to be able to reach across with ease – this generally means no wider than 4 feet (3 feet is better). Beds can be any length that fits your area. Pathways must have room for a wheel barrel or cart to maneuver and pivot (at least 24 inches). Bed height is dependent upon soil conditions – you want at least 12 to 16 inches of quality soil to grow in. The deeper the bed the better your plants will do. North/south orientation captures more sun.
- 28. Construction Materials A simpleway to construct a raised bed garden is to use construction lumber (2 by 4s, 2 by 6s, 2 by 8s and 2 by 10s). Untreated lumber may last for several years, except in high salt areas or wet sites. Various untreated landscaping timbers may also be used. Do not use CCA pressure treated lumber (removed from the market several years ago due to arsenic concerns) or railroad ties (creosote - cancer concerns). Brick or other building materials may be used.
- 29. Wood Planks Advantages ofPlanks: Relatively inexpensive, Easy to handle, Disadvantages of planks: Require support at corners and every 4 feet, Will rot within five years (if not sooner).
- 30. Wood Timbers Advantages oftimbers (and logs): Longer lasting than planks, Larger timbers hold back soil even if partly rotted, Larger timbers don’t need support, Provide a place to sit while working, Disadvantages: Smaller sizes require support at corners, Expensive, Will eventually rot.
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- 32. Cinder Blocks Advantages ofcement blocks: May not require support if leveled properly, Will not rot, Retain heat (may warm soil earlier in spring extend season in the fall), Disadvantages: Most expensive option in the short term, Can be unattractive (paint them green?), Not comfortable to sit on,
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- 35. Soil Horizons (Layers) OHorizon: loose and partly decayed organic matter E Horizon: light colored zone of leaching C Horizon: Partially altered parent material A Horizon: mineral matter with some humus B Horizon: accumulation of clay from above Unweathered parent material Courtesy UVM.EDU
- 36. Drainage Test forSoil Dig a hole two feet deep. Fill the hole with water. Let it drain. Then fill it again. It should drain in a few hours.
- 37. Double Digging Also knownas "French intensive" or "deep bed" method, Performed only one time, Loosens soil to depth of about 2 feet, Requires shovel, garden fork and a lot of muscle.
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- 39. Single Dig Method Aneasier method: Ideal for soil that is naturally loose, well drained, or previously cultivated, Requires garden shovel. Follow processes for double-digging except omit disturbing the subsoil. This method can also be used for raised beds.
- 40. Raised Bed LasagnaMethod
- 41. Raised Bed LasagnaMethod There are several advantages to sheet composting: An easy and uncomplicated method of composting, Can be done a little at a time as materials are available, Can be done on a large or small scale, Used to improve soil or add to existing beds and borders, Tis is an easy way to expand a garden with a minimum amount of equipment, material and time.
- 42. Preparing the SoilUnder Your Raised Bed Mark your bed. Cut any grass as low as possible. Dig a twelve inch wide trench the length of the bed. Add amendments (based on soil test) and several inches of compost. Using a pitchfork (or broadfork), loosen and push the soil towards the trench. Put bed frame in place. Cover bed with several layers of wet newspapers and fill with high quality topsoil.
- 43. Raised Beds WithoutSides
- 44. Raised Beds WithoutSides Raised beds may also be made without sides. Organic matter is mixed in at the same time the garden is tilled. Walkways are dug down with the soil thrown up on the bed. Beds are wider at the base than at the top. You will need to cover the bed with an organic mulch to prevent soil erosion and reduce compaction from rain and sprinkler irrigation. Wood chips can be used to fill the pathways.
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- 46. Hugelkultur Start by digginga deep trench or pit and then filling it with woody stuff, adding some nitrogen-rich compost materials like grass clippings or manure , piling the soil back on top, mulching, and leaving it to break down.
- 47. The decomposing woodattracts earthworms deep into your subsoil, extends your growing season by adding warmth, creates air pockets for your plants' roots to enter, and encourages mycelia to join the party. Grow a garden with little irrigation or fertilization. Works anywhere there is wood. Use burned or rotting wood, twigs, branches, even whole trees. Built into the ground or as a raised bed. Hugelkultur
- 48. Season Extension Anything thatallows a crop to be cultivated beyond its normal outdoor growing season.
- 49. Season Extension Raised bedallow you to attach row covers and high tunnels.
- 50. Soil and Compostfor Your Beds
- 51. Purchasing Topsoil orLoam New Hampshire has no legal definition of topsoil and no regulations governing its sale, so buyer beware. Know your supplier and ask about the source of the topsoil he or she is selling. If it's an amended product, ask the vendor for the ‘recipe.’ If you are buying soil from a garden or landscape supply center, ask the vendor for the product’s test data. If the topsoil hasn't been tested, ask for a small sample and have it tested yourself.
- 52. Purchasing Topsoil orLoam A topsoil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.5 is acceptable. As far as texture goes, a classification of loam or sandy loam is best. Ask if the loam has been screened. Don't buy a product that has a chemical or other off-odor. Occasionally, topsoil stripped off farmland may contain herbicide residues that could hinder crop germination. Take a sample home, plant a few seeds in it and see if they germinate okay.
- 53. Buying Compost Ask abouttheir compost process and source of material. Check out composting facility if possible (stay away from big piles – create anaerobic conditions). Ask to see a lab compost test. Examine contents (sand, wood, glass, plastic, caps).
- 54. Growing things upward Trellisesand supports: Provide more sunlight and air flow, Save space, Allow for cleaner fruit, May reduce disease.
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- 56. Plants Buy them! Start themfrom seed!
- 57. Buying Plants Check theroots (should be white – not grey brown or black), Shop on Fridays, Dig for the good stuff, As wide as tall, Buy it now, Buy a little more than you need, Read plant tags carefully, Nip the bloom in the bud (no flowers).
- 58. Growing plants fromseed gives you a head start on the growing season and may be the only way to obtain plants of a new or special cultivar. Growing plants from seed
- 59. Seeds need theright amount of: Moisture, Warmth, Light or darkness to germinate. Growing Plants From Seed
- 60. Growing Plants FromSeed Start with high-quality seed from a reliable source, Buy only enough seed for one year's use, Select cultivars which provide the plant size, color (flower, foliage, or fruit), and growth habit you want, Choose cultivars adapted to your area,
- 61. Growing Plants FromSeed Store them in a cool, dry place, Follow the directions on the package, Do not sow seeds too early, Keep moist but not wet.
- 63. Thank You UNH CooperativeExtension www.extension.unh.edu The University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension is a public institution with a longstanding commitment to equal opportunity for all. It is the policy of UNHCE to abide by all United States and New Hampshire state laws and University System of New Hampshire and University of New Hampshire policies applicable to discrimination and harassment. It does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, veteran’s status, gender identity or expression, sexual orientation, marital status, or disability in admission or access to, or treatment or employment in, its programs, services, or activities.